Bob...if it's real close, the oil pan can just sit on the drag link. I use a small piece of 1x4 board to let it sit on when I take the trans out. Just loosen up your plate bolts at the frame.

I don't think it's really necessary to put a bolt in sprag in a trans that's currently in good working condition. Just my opinion.

use a 1 49/64" freeze plug. Dorman 555-036

Thanks guys! It's nice to have a game plan.

As already stated, the super or ultra sprags have six tapped holes where two additional holes have to be drilled in the case. The placement of these holes can either be marked out manually or one can purchase a jig from A&A to help with drilling these two holes.

http://www.aandatrans.com/Departments/Chrysler-727-Trans/Bolt-In-Sprag.aspx?page=3

Drilling these holes on an older case is not a problem but on the later cases, there is a boss that you have to drill through and needs to be counterbored in order to make room for the socket head capscrew. This can be done on a mill or one can use a counterbore reamer to clearance the holes after the through holes are drilled.

(X2)

I've seen even Super Sprague break during drive train failure. Also seen sprages break with low bamd apply. Good shield or blanket is your best bet. And even then stuff may get through it. I personnaly have never blown up a drum (stock or aftermarket) in 35 years. But seen my fair share of them cause damage. I'd buy a good drum before a sprage.
Doug

Yeah. I agree with the general sentiment. I wouldn't chase replacing the sprag. Do your burn outs starting out in second gear.

I have stripped axles and torn up an 8.75 rear, both at the hit, and never messed up the sprag.

Replace the drum before replacing the sprag.

same here, the only reason I changed mine was I was already in it.

I use a Harbor Freight engine support bar

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

I use the rear center intake valley cover bolt hole. Car can still be moved (pushed or lifted).

I can tell you I still have the factory drum in my 63 and I do have a bolt in sprag but its not the super sprag. I do use a trans blanket and have never blown up a 727 but I dont race alot like many do. I just make sure I am aware of what I run and start my burnouts in second. And I dont roll out of the water and let the tires squeal. I let off the gas and then when the tires slow down I just idle out and then pull up and stage. Actually my brother ran low 9's at one time in his Cuda with still the stock sprag in the car and it held up fine until he changed it. I am not saying its good to run the stock drum and sprag as I am just stating that I have got away on the stock drum in what little racing I do and trying to be smart about it since I do know what can happen even though I have never blown a 727 or saw one blow up. Thats also one reason I dont race much and wont until I update the drum. Ron

pm me with your mailing address and i will send you a screw on cap that has a rubber seal inside. no charge.

PM sent, thank you sir!!!

Interesting. So basically the rubber pads will sit on top of your inner fenders, and the metal bar doesn't touch anything? I just wouldn't want anything sitting on top of the (outer)fenders.

I got ahold of Chuck Lofgren and luckily he still makes and sells the shorty non-sfi blankets for $149, he only has one left and I won't have my money together til spring as I have other projects going on right now. I'll order one in the spring when he produces more of them.

So basically the rubber pads will sit on top of your inner fenders, and the metal bar doesn't touch anything?


Exactly. I have a lift off hood and no hinges so I move the support bar as far rearward as possible, the rear foot right at the hinge opening.

Ok thanks I'll buy one of those if my other efforts don't work. Harbor freight is only 15 min from my house.

A simple 2 x 4 cut to size and a small chain works as well too. Or a wood spacer between the oil pan and steering link like Chip suggests. I have the spool mounts on my 73 Sport, and don't even use any extra supports. wouldn't want to do that with the bisket type mounts that you most likely have.

I just have an AR-Engineering motor plate.

Just me personally I'm not pulling a transmission to just put a bolt in sprag in. I do have one but I also put in a steel drum.