Car idles fine, most of the time, but on occasion does have a slight skip. When I had the timing light on the car you could see the miss. The light would momentarily go out. When driving it around the neighborhood and you accelerate the car dies. Does not cut off but just loses power. If you try and feather the gas to keep it running it spark knocks bad. Like it is going very lean. I have not had this problem in the past? The car was half ass restored so I am sure there are plenty of gremlins to work out still.

With it being Christmas and family in town probably will not be able to pick this up until next week.

Thanks for the help

Merry Christmas!!

Lawrence

I agree the car should run fine with the 650, but when he got the car the plugs were gas soaked, the breather was full of fuel. The car would backfire and flames would shoot out of the tailpipes.Yes it is an Eddy 750. I know some guys like or don't like them. I probably too prefer a Holley over the Eddy, but given the ease this is the way he wanted to go. For me I restore and run the original equipment. My 69 has the original Carter AVS on it. Not restored and has a stumble off of idle which I have been chasing for sometime now. I am getting ready to pull the engine and paint the car so will address the carb issue then.

Will check the fuel lines. That is a good idea.

Thank you,

Lawrence

My buddy put the new carb on and we have the same issues. Not a big surprise. When we were setting the timing I could see when the car would miss the timing light would momentarily go out then come back on. So there must be an ignition issue here. The box is a new orange unit, not sure of the wires. Any ideas on where to go from here.

Try a different Box. The orange boxes have been known to be troublesome. Make sure the box is well grounded.

Ok, I am back again. Problem is still with us. This is is what is going on. Start the car and it runs perfect for the first 2 or 3 minutes then it starts to skip or miss. I can see this with the timing light hooked up. When the car misses the light will go out momentarily. Could this problem be the ballast resistor? When driving the car is just loses power when you try to go above say 20 mph. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks guys,

Lawrence

What Stump said, did you try another box?

Yes, bought a new box and put it in the car...same issue.

Alright, I don't suggest shotgunning/purchasing parts at random for a solution but I'm thinking dist pickup. got another dist you could sub in for a quick test? (that'd be much easier than tearing down a dist to R&R the plate). plugs would act up right away and plug wires likely would the same way but not always but this sounds like a system upstream from them that is causing a major issue when it heats up (like the pickup or the box). EDIT With more thought I might borrow some plug wires & check the plugs both of which would be much easier

Have you checked the ohm's on the ballast resistor? I am wondering since the problem doesnt happen right away if the ballast is heating up enough to start causing problems down the line at the distributor. When it starts to miss have someone with a volt meter check the voltage at the coil while you have the timing light on it. Also make sure all of your engine grounds are nice and clean.

you might richen the choke on the chance that it has a slight vac leak. As said on the ballast when it starts to act up you could bypass it with a jumper with alligator clips on each end to ans that ASAP (gotta do it fast when it is hot). Might check Rotor Phasing (my baby) as it might be borderline & then cause the problem when the system gets hot (leaner & higher resistances). Keep us posted!

Plug wires are new as well as the plugs. I like your distributor idea but it looks new too, but that does not mean anything. I just rebuilt a factory transistorized ignition distributor on a 69 Corvette. The pickup coil was bad. In that situation the car would not start. I was able to troubleshoot it with voltage checks. I will check the ballast resistor, but for $5 from Auto Zone I think will just go buy one and put it in. Will also check the grounds again.

Thanks for the help.

Lawrence

We're gettin there. We'll assume (for now) the new box is good & we know the plugs/wires are new. You might wire the choke partly open or block the rods up (eddy/carter) to see if that partial enrichment straightens it out. timing in the ballpark? but some of it don't sound like timing but might as well elim it. with RP, with the magnet lined up with the tooth you would want the rotor to be pretty close to vertically plumb inline with the bulge in the dist cap for where the rotor is at tho the symptoms ain't exactly matching that either. when we get it it is gonna be something simple!

How old is the fuel and what kinda fuel was it? How about filters, basic but it hasn't been mentioned. Like Robert said it doesn't all sound like timing but would be interesting to know where you have it set and verify that you have the advance unplugged. Also verify advance is working and how much. I would also check for vacuum leaks if for no other reason to eliminate it as a factor.

Can you pedal through the dead spot and get it to open up and run like a 440 or is it pretty much flat above XXX RPM?