how much would you compromise strenght if your line bored the mains to 440 size?

Some for sure. The way I think about it is that steel is a lot stronger than cast iron so keep the thick cast iron and go with the smaller steel shaft. Only problem with using the 383 size mains is that there aren't very many choices for bearings.

yes true on the bearings........so ill just turn the crank down if i end up using what i have if not ill buy one with the smaller journal.

I wouldn't worry about it if its the true 230 block from 4/4/71 to 10/10/71. The webbing thickness is huge compared to any other 440 block with the bigger mains.

Barton does them all this way or at least he did. I myself would only do it , if it were a true 230. Even then though, I might not waste the money.

whats the diff in price?grind crank down or line bore...

turn the crank. ON an interesting side note I had a 230 383 block in the shop a few weeks ago. Looked and was marked just like the 400 and had a July casting date. Thought it was cool.
Todd

that is cool ive heard of the 230 383block but never came across one.i am going to grind the crank just curious of the price diff.....

Don't know the price diff. But its more then just a line bore. The bearing register divots will need to be machined back in.

ya never thought of that ...

Did it have super-thick cylinder walls (so it could be bored to 400 size)?

Did not have chance to sonic test but I would bet money it did.
Todd

IMO buy a better block

I've had two early(06-71 to 10-71) 230 blocks, one had the large casting numbers on the block and the other one didn't
Neither one of them had really thick cylinder walls when sonic tested

[quote=Al_Alguire]IMO buy a better block

i would never build a stock block again i have a indy maxx low deck waiting for a set of Mike Duke oval port MCs .....its for my son just a mild (600hp max) build for his 67 R/T.

ya Cab where gonna have it sonic checked too...........

I personally think line bore to 440 main with aluminum caps. The larger main diameter will flex less. Plus lot better bearing choices.

as i understand it, those are only used as assembly and location aids, while the crush prevents the bearing shells from spinning. would, or could it be possible, to meticulously position the bearing shell in the block after removing the locating tang on the upper shell ?