[quote=dvw]Are they leaking between the plug and block or are the rusted through from the back side? I'd support the motor and drop the K-frame before I pulled the motor.
Doug [/quot]
I think I could pull an engine faster than dropping a k-member

How bad are they leaking?

I know it's kind of a hack fix but assuming these are new plugs perhaps a stopleak might cure it. Bar's Leaks has a good reputation for plugging leaks without plugging the rad/heater core.

If there is any rust scale left inside the block it could cure itself.

Either way it's got to be better than pulling the engine or K-frame. If it works, bonus . If not, well you were resigned to pulling the engine anyway and you're only out a few bucks for Bar's Leaks.

I was never a fan of rad caps much over 7 psi but I see you live close to the surface of the sun so perhaps it's a necessity.

If your system doesn't ever venture much over 200F tho I'd run 60% anti freeze in it which even at atmospheric pressure will boil 225-230F and with an 8 psi cap, 250F.


Yeah, when I refilled the rad it didn't seem to leak much but when it's under pressure 16psi which is stock it comes out at a pretty good clip.

Kevin

When I was doing OEM cooling system stuff a few years back, they were using stopleak tablets at the factory.

I have successfully sealed a cracked castiron head that was leaking water into the oil with K Seal. The lift truck was used for another 10 years after the K Seal with a cracked head. The oil and water stayed separate after that till I got rid of the lift truck. Sure helped with the resale value too.

Were they dry on install?
A few here will know better than me but I have always used the Indian Head Shellac on soft plugs...brass or steel...