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Heres the thing , If we go coil over I have to step up from super stock to pro stock , we tried heavy springs in front of axle with lighter springs aft of axle with sliders , bent the hell out of the springs so we went heavyer and truck wont stay on the ground,took out some spring & we added ladder bars and rear is too stiff , bars fighting leafs but best so far, the floaters look like they are made for spring under axle we are over axle? if we flip the floaters upside down we raise the rear up too high? trying to keep the weight as close to the ground as possible

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are we talking drag racing or mud bogging?

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i thoght we were talking street/strip here

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Heres the thing , If we go coil over I have to step up from super stock to pro stock , we tried heavy springs in front of axle with lighter springs aft of axle with sliders , bent the hell out of the springs so we went heavyer and truck wont stay on the ground,took out some spring & we added ladder bars and rear is too stiff , bars fighting leafs but best so far, the floaters look like they are made for spring under axle we are over axle? if we flip the floaters upside down we raise the rear up too high? trying to keep the weight as close to the ground as possible

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are we talking drag racing or mud bogging?

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Hey Quick thy aint slicks on back

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are we talking drag racing or mud bogging?

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i thoght we were talking street/strip here

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I don't really know, I thought this was drag racing? then he showed a pic of a mud truck

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Heres the thing , If we go coil over I have to step up from super stock to pro stock , we tried heavy springs in front of axle with lighter springs aft of axle with sliders , bent the hell out of the springs so we went heavyer and truck wont stay on the ground,took out some spring & we added ladder bars and rear is too stiff , bars fighting leafs but best so far, the floaters look like they are made for spring under axle we are over axle? if we flip the floaters upside down we raise the rear up too high? trying to keep the weight as close to the ground as possible

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are we talking drag racing or mud bogging?

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Hey Quick thy aint slicks on back

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I know thats what concerned me

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Heres the thing , If we go coil over I have to step up from super stock to pro stock , we tried heavy springs in front of axle with lighter springs aft of axle with sliders , bent the hell out of the springs so we went heavyer and truck wont stay on the ground,took out some spring & we added ladder bars and rear is too stiff , bars fighting leafs but best so far, the floaters look like they are made for spring under axle we are over axle? if we flip the floaters upside down we raise the rear up too high? trying to keep the weight as close to the ground as possible

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Looks like you will be making your own floaters. Or
if you can have the same IC of the front spring eye
and the front heim joint on the ladder bars(same
fore and aft and vertical height) you would have a
common IC and wouldnt be fighting each other

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just saw the picture myself so disregard my input , please

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mine too, I have no freaking idea how it would work on a mud truck need to be a little more specific. we mostly talk drag racing here. I think

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just saw the picture myself so disregard my input , please

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mine too, I have no freaking idea how it would work on a mud truck need to be a little more specific. we mostly talk drag racing here. I think

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Sorry for the confusion , you just gota look at at like drag racing with hidden speed bumps

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Heres the thing , If we go coil over I have to step up from super stock to pro stock , we tried heavy springs in front of axle with lighter springs aft of axle with sliders , bent the hell out of the springs so we went heavyer and truck wont stay on the ground,took out some spring & we added ladder bars and rear is too stiff , bars fighting leafs but best so far, the floaters look like they are made for spring under axle we are over axle? if we flip the floaters upside down we raise the rear up too high? trying to keep the weight as close to the ground as possible

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Looks like you will be making your own floaters. Or
if you can have the same IC of the front spring eye
and the front heim joint on the ladder bars(same
fore and aft and vertical height) you would have a
common IC and wouldnt be fighting each other

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are you saying to shorten the ladder bar to the same lenght as the leaf mounting point?

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Or lengthen the springs(if you can and be legal)

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Now theres a thought, The springs can be any lenght as long as long as thier not coilover , if the front of the spring is the same lenght as the ladderbar even if they are different hights the arc should be the same?

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I still run leaf springs with a four link at 9.18 and 144 MPH.

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it must be working but I have ask why would you do that

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my pops car has been 1.19 60' 8.30 @ 170 3400lbs, 10.5w's. On ladder bars, floaters, and factory leaf springs. It does work.

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Float the front of the ladder bars,
Done it before , works well.......

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That would be the equivalent to slapper bars

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you see this car..



very old school gasser..uses the stock leaf suspension with long set of ladder bars and NO floaters..

thats what they did back then and thats whats still on this car...he uses a BOP rear(saginaw 9 1/4") that uses a welded seamed axle housing...

the two different motions or archs of rthe leaves and the ladder bars caused the seam to split open on the axle housing...

just so you know what can happen without a floater to allow the axle to rotate with two oposing forces...

I did fi the rear for him but he was missing pieces from his floater kit so I beefed the axle housing and the ladder bar connection points till he gets the parts or revises the rear suspension..

that 56 goes high nines and I cant figure out how it still passes tech...

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I'm sure it has enough IC before it binds up that
allows it to hook.... but then again its busting
up parts doing it

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still no body has answered why you would want to set up a modern day race car like this

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Ill answer that!

The answer is Simplicity. Or so it seems when some first do it this way.

Then Later, in almost all cases that Ive seen. It all gets changed out.

Its all about the learning curve, we have all started somewhere on it.

Why do people start out with 8.3/4,s mike

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still no body has answered why you would want to set up a modern day race car like this

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still no body has answered why you would want to set up a modern day race car like this

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That car was built in 95, It is just simple, it works. The car would hook at test and tune like it would on raceday. When our competitors were changing 4-link bars, checking how far the zip tie moved up on compression and making shock ajustments we were setting in the trailer talking and having a good time. Low Mantinence! And I know when you get a 4 link car set-up you don't have to mess with it but you don't even have to go through getting it right.

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oh OK, good to know thats a better set up than a 4 link. heck I may change mine

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Float the front of the ladder bars,
Done it before , works well.......

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I seen a stock elim. car set up this way. The back was bolted on to the plate that holds the spring and the front was a pice of tubing that slid inside of anouther tube that was mounted to the front spring eye bolt by 2 clips welded to the outer tube. The stockers have to have a bolton suspention. This car ran 1.30 60s and 10.00 with this setup. On your truck I would think the spring was on tob of the rear, so you would have to find a way to mount it underneath. You might try a leaf link suspention with a bar going from the top of where the rear mounts to the spring to the front frame at the spring mount.
good luck and I did see where you are keeping the springs as per class rules

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Hows this for leaf springs & ladder bars car runs 10.60 with a 1.36 60ft.

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Well, Thats a Great example as to how well leaf springs and ladders can hook.


A 1.36 60 ft. hook should be good for a 10.0 run.

That car is certainly Hooking but not Booking for its 60 ft, ET. Still, Overall not bad IMO. For its ET its a Hook monster, mike

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ive got a 78 dodge 4x4 full size. using a ladder bar with a floater and drag shocks it works great in the drags and also in the pits. my bars mount at the center of weight on the truck. it is like the kit from jegs (not the CE kit) but adapted to go over the axle. we also have a truck with the CE kit. i think you can stay lower that way. a few other guys brag how they are running the ladder bar with no floater or slider.... but those trucks wheel-hop like crazy!!! also seen it done with the spring slider but the guy who built mine prefers the floater. i will try to get some pics. BTW your bars look a little short.

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The bars are 33" we had long bars and had too much lift , I want to keep the front wheels in the mud , wheelies are fun but too hard to recover from if your not dead on, The CE sliders we have arent enough , I will check jeggs for the floater kit thanks

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wow!!! wheelies with dot tires??? what you runnin???

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Was thinking about this why do you nead the front half of the spring, just put the ladderbars in the front and a leaf from say the back half of the cal track single leaf spring and a watts link or a diagnal link.
So what you think

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