I run the HP+ pads at the track lol. And stock Napa rear shoes on my 11" drums. It's the bomb imo. I'm not gonna get to froggy until I get a set of rear discs.

I found a set of 70 Drum spindles from an E-body and they are on the way. I'm going to start building up a set of these brakes to replace my pin calipers eventually.

I'm hoping that it's more than enough brake for what I want to do. Without Cass building more of the 14" viper kits, I can't do much else aside from Wilwood and I'd rather give him the business.

Picking up on a older thread... as most of you may know, I use the car for serious pylon autocross in the past, but in recent years I'm running road course events.. HSAX/HPDE... avg speeds ~80mph (occasionally up to 110-115mph top-end and maybe a little faster in the near future).... its street/hwy driven (maybe another trailer in the future).

I'm at a crossroads decision to upgrade from my current 10.75" front power disc brakes to the 11.75" dia rotors (Cordoba, etc). I have multiple rim choices that I want to keep and use, pending my different events, etc.

I intend to use my 15x8 vintage mini-lite rims for street/hwy cruising, although I may eventually run the 15x7 factory steel rally rims (maybe going to 15x8 chrome rally rims for the front and 15x10 chrome rally rims for the rear... then using my aluminum 15x8 vintage mini-lite rims with Hoosier autocross tires size 275-50-15 f/r.

Also have a couple sets of 16" dia rims for various purposes; not yet planning, if ever, to get 17 or 18 diam rims... those are e few years away, if ever.

I recently acquired a pair of 73 up A-body disc spindles (large bearing design). I was going to get the Wilwood light weight calipers (with dust seals) as has been promoted/written in various articles, BUT.. it seems that the special caliper bracket from AREngineering (or Dr. Diff?) is no longer available to adapt the Wilwood calipers.

SO, if I install the large-bearing spindles (73-up disc A-body) which I have aside, then I'll have to install the heavy cast-iron calipers (again, Cordoba, etc) with the 11.75 rotors. Perhaps that'll be OK and show some noticeable braking improvement... my factory 10.75 discs and iron calipers have, in my opinion, worked fine for all the past ~40 years of duty/racing, even at the recent HSAX/HPDE track events. I've been using older semi-metallic asbestos pads from Wagner (yes... they are old, but I have a few sets to use up... and they work fine for me. (I'm aware that Dr Diff sells this as a kit, I'd simply negate the spindles since I already have them.)

In the rear, I have stock drums (small, 10" non-finned drums)... light weight compared to the larger 11" finned drums). I DO intend to get the Dr. Diff 10.7" rear disc setup pretty soon.

BUT,... I've just run across a potential purchase of the Viper gen-1 calipers, drum spindles, lines, etc (possibly coming off a Mopar e-b body... not sure about that... I believe this is an older Dr. Diff setup... I'll inquire further.. the older setup requires pad/caliper spacers and uses the 1" thin Cordoba rotor). It seems the gen-1 Viper calipers are difficult to purchase by themselves (I've seen they want core exchanges), and very expensive!

SO, what do you think is the better choice for me, keeping in mind the rims I intend to use, in particular the potential future usage of the factory-style 15" rally rims? I know the Viper calipers MAY not fit within the factory rally rims, but they will fit factory steel 15x7 cop-rims (including the 15x8 Super Coupe rims, I believe).

My interest is best performance and allowable 15" rims that i described.

I'm also aware that Dr Diff offers adapters for the Viper gen-1 calipers, along with thicker 11.75 C-body rotors at 1.25" thickness (instead of the thinner common Cordoba rotors at 1"). Granted, the thicker rotors would probably be better for long-life on the road race tracks for HSAX/HPDE... again, something to consider.

My car has been all apart (engine out/suspension/engine bay all being re-done) and is slowly getting back-together... aiming at the 2017 race season for my return.

T/Anks ahead for any advice and feedback.

You may also be able to use Dr. Diff's GM metric caliper adapters and then use Wilwoods D154 aluminum calipers that fit those. That might be the lightest setup with the 11.75" rotors.

T/Anks... I'll have to look into that option... wasn't aware of it.

hi mitch....i have this viper cass c body rotor kit and the 10.7 cass rear set up..i am running 15/16 cass master and stock 4 wheel drum prop vavle...cass said with this set up it is almost perfect bias as i am not using any adjustable prop valves..seems to be right on the money...pedel is not to hard and i have fallen in love with this set up...note c body rotors that are 1.25 are heavy...very heavy but will aid as a nice heat sink if your gonna use them...

Sublime -- T/Anks for the feedback... We're not too far apart... I'd like to meet with you sometime.

If you're willing to spend the money you can get a lightweight aftermarket rotor that is 1.25 wide and use it rather than the C body rotor. That will save you about 10 lbs per side but it will cost some bucks.

Andy -- T/Anks for the tip on the light-weight discs... would like more info when available.

I met with Sublime hemi over this holiday wknd... he has an AWESOME 70 Charger!!!!

I tried different rims over the 11.75" rotors with the Viper calipers.... the factory 15x7 steel rally rims will NOT clear over the calipers... the inside radius of the design of the rim hits the caliper.

I tried my PERFORMANCE-brand vintage 15x8 mini-light rim... it just bareley clears, BUT having inside tape-weights just barely touches and scrapes the top of the front leading edge of the caliper (so, removing that ~1/8"-3/16" thickness weight would allow it to clear... that would mean using clip-on wheel weights (which I don't like as they'd probably damage the aluminum rim... not sure about that).... or else, filing-down the caliper at that interfering edge.

I also tried my Wheel Vintique 16x8 minilight rim... it clears better around the diameter, but... the flat spokes come close to the side of the caliper... clears by about 3/16".

And, I tried my 16x10 Centerline -X-series race rims (aluminum, zero offset (5" backspace)... clears a-ok.

SO... I may end up talking a pass on the Viper setup and just go with the cast iron Cordoba calipers.

BUT... I wish the Wilwood caliper adapters were still available from AREngineering and/or DrDiff... this way I could use light-weight calipers (hoping they would be a good choice or at least equal to the cast iron calipers).

Also, using the drum spindles limits the choices... using the disc spindles (say, '73 and up large size) allows more future brake choices from different suppliers, etc. (I have the drum spindles aside and the small disc spindle on the car, with the large disc spindle aside to be installed... all pending my final decision.)

T/Anks again to Mike... aka SublimeHemi!

Hmmm.... I wonder if this change actually results in any improvement in regular street use.
Not bashing anything here. I just recall reading an article in Mopar Action years back where they had a stock type single piston iron caliper on one side and a Viper caliper on the other. The car stopped straight during street stops.
If the only advantage is for track use, 150 mph stops, I don't know when I'd be able to use the extra force.

You're not getting any appreciable change in force.

The bigger brakes give you more thermal capacity. Get more heat out and your brakes are more effective under harsher conditions.

Viper and Wilwood calipers have a broader selection of pad compounds than the OEM iron stuff. That could have a big impact for some uses.