hi,
in the process of planning my new big block.
-Will have std. style heads (440 source).
-hydraulic roller from Mike Jones 242/250 @.050"
.375"/.360" Lobe Lift
-rev limit at 6500rpm
-street car

What rockers to sue?
Anyone with REAL world experience? I really like the Comp steel rocker:
https://www.atechmotorsports.com/parts/cca-1621-16
but they only come in 1.5 ratio.

Has someone used the Hughes Engines 1.6 or 1.7 ratio rockers?

Any recomendations?

Greets
flo

I've used Harland Sharps in the last two; I'm sure someone here has experience with the Hughes stuff, which as I recall are fine.

Hughes will work for your street motor but if you are getting the cryo treated ones I would just go ahead and buy the Harland sharps and never have to worry about rocker arms again....

Not knocking Hughes but buy the best and be done with it

Harland Sharps, 1 and done.

The Comp investment cast alloy steel have worked great for me on an Ed head 496. >15k miles, hammered on the road course. At freshen rockers were fine and re-used as is.

Not sure why you would spec such a mild cam, then look for 1.6 rockers. Why not use a cam that does what you want at 1.5? A deeper ratio puts more stress on the rocker gear and lifters. Not as much of an issue with a solid cam, but when coupled with a hydraulic cam is a recipe for problems in my opinion. I would advise a cam that gets you where you want to be with a 1.5 arm.


As far as advice on rocker design: for a mild build, I'd stick with a bushed steel design. Stay away from needle bearings and aluminum.

I was wondering about this posted on the 440source customer rides page. That's a really cheap rocker, but Wade is no dummy. Hmmmmm

9.90's@133 MPH!

over 300 runs

Wade Metzinger
Catoosa, OK
918-809-0987
71 Cuda
440 Source 440>>500 Stroker Kit
440 Source 200-1045 Aluminum Roller Rockers with .660 lift cam.

The Comp 1621 rockers work well. The least expensive aluminum rockers I would use are the Mancini Racing made by Harland sharp.

Mancini rocker arms

With Stealth heads and 1.6 rockers or 3/8 pushrods you have to grind for pushrod clearance. Even with 1.5 rockers and 5/16 pushrods you sometimes have to grind for pushrod clearance.

I have Crane golds on my source heads , 1.5 measure at 1.52:1
I am running these on a solid ft cam. Had them on since 2008 . 6-8000mls a year plus monthly bracket racing .Will reuse them on the new motor
Have to grind source heads with 1.5 and 3/8" and 5/16" pushrods

Tex

If you're using the cheapo Source heads then I wouldn't waste my money on HS rockers, Comp or Crane rockers would be just fine.

Well, I am using the CNCed 440source head because they look stock from the outside...

Grinding would not amtter as engine is not assembled yet.

Will stick with the Comp, just kind of sad to loose "free" valve lift.

You're only talking a max of .600" lift on a hydraulic roller with a 1.6 rocker. Not super aggressive by any means. I think any decent brand 1.6 rocker will work with your combination. As mentioned, just keep an eye on the pushrod clearance, tip sweep, spring clearance.

The 1.6 rockers would nominally result in precisely .600" lift on the intake lobe. Exhaust lobe even less.

The Harland Sharp are actuall less than the more fancy Hughes rockers. Are Harland Sharp the way to go?

Been running HS`s for many years and my 1.5`s actually measured 1.54 at the retainer............

I use Hughes 1.6 roller tip rockers and I am very pleased with them. No problems at all and they are holding up real good on my 440/493 street combo that gets driven alot. Ron

Real world experience? Yes.
The comp rockers are nice, but I rarely use them for the same reason you mentioned. No higher ratios. I almost always go up in ratio, and prefer a milder camshaft with a higher ratio rocker. With the better heads available these days more lift is needed to take advantage of their capabilities, but getting that lift with a 1.5 rocker means a cam that is too big For most street applications.

I would stay away from ball style adjusters on a roller rocker. Their only value is purely sentimental. I guess since the factory had them, then only true Mopar rockers would have them. Wrong!

Also, it's your money. Buy what works for your combination. Don't let others spend your money on overpriced, overhyped, or overkill parts.

And finally, whatever rocker you choose, make sure they are set up properly. Do a little research on Mopar rocker geometry. Its not about centering the roller on the valve stem. There's a lot more to it than that.

Here's a pic of 1.6s on a Big Block Mopar.

Sorry about the upside down pics. Sometimes I really hate this phone.

I've been waiting for this Rocker arm company that went out and their employes are bring it back.They are having a hard time with their forger.I was told they are skipping them and are getting a neighbor to Cnc some .Should be out in 6 weeks.My machinist said when they were in business before that is was a good product

http://www.rockerarms.com/

Your correct on the old company, Rocker Arm Specialitys, being sold and then going under. One of the original partners died and the other one sold it. He, Gary, took it back and got it going again as RAU and he has now resold it again is what I under stand They are making new stainless steel rockers for the older Gen 1 Chrysler and after market race motors also that use those type heads
I do have two sets of the original ductile iron rockers that I had them blueprint, rebuild and bush and change the ratio to 1.6 on one set last year, the other set is still 1.5 ratio. I have his chromemoly steel hold downs and banana groove specail H.D. shafts also, both sets are a mix of different brands, Isky, Mopar, Crane and Ersons I would sell the 1.5 ratio set as I'm switching to the higher end race paired shaft rocker arm sets now due to that I'm using solid roller cams, more spring pressures and revving the motors to higher RPM

How do cup style adjusters get oiled properly?