According to E-booger the factory align-bored cam bearings after installation.

You really have a hard on for the scotch brite pad , its not something that should be used on an assembled motor , nevermind a bearing ...

What do you mean by it spins good ? Put a gear on it and spin it , does it stop immediate is you try to spin it fast and let go or does it do a revolution or 2 ? If it stops you still have high spots ... more scotch brite ...

You really have a hard on for the scotch brite pad , its not something that should be used on an assembled motor , nevermind a bearing ...

what do you mean by it spins good ? Put a gear on it and spin it , does it stop immeadiate is you try to spin it fast and let go or does it do a revolution or 2 ? If it stops you still have high spots ... more scotch brite ...

I put oil on the pad and it contains the grit to the bearing. just whip of. don't take much rubbing to blend. if I spin the cam it will not continue to spin half a dozen revs on its own. the 20/50 I put on the jounals drags it down.

According to my old machinest you can't align hone the cam tunnel on any modern day(1951 to current production as of 2003) Mopar V8 due to the tunnel has five diofferent sizes, just like the cam journals have Maybe Ebooger thought they honed them after installing the bearings on the blocks that the cam would stick in
It never ceases amaze me to hear urban myths repeated over the internet, supposidily from a relaiblle source

Why wouldn't the factory simply have a hone with 5 different diameters on one solid honing bar?
Or maybe they also just used a stock camshaft with grooves cut into them for quick clearancing...

odd thing is the front and rear bearing were showing shiny spots that needed clearancing while sitting on the tailgate of my truck. once on the engine stand only the front bearing was an issue. all is well now as it fits like it should.

So installing the engine stand bolts and putting the block on the stand letting it hang of of the bolts deformed the back of the block enough to affect the rear cam bearing hole
Many opportunitys in life to learn

yeah, I cant hardly believe that would make any difference. whatever, cam has no binding and spins freely. I happy with it.

Sure you can, just use a boring tool with five different cutter diameters. Don't confuse align-boring with align-honing.

He used a Sunnen CK10 for both align boring and alin honing as well as cylinder honing

Most any shop that installs many BB Mopar cam bearings will have a "cutter cam" like the one shown above. Nearly impossible to get them in and not have a tight spot somewhere. Common problem. I also agree with the others. Scotchbrite is not your friend

ok, now that I know a pocket knife works good for scraping bearings, theirs no need for scotch brite.

As said common issue with bb mopar. Don't sweat it. Ive seen cams that would barely turn with a wrench on the bolt, after some run time it turned like it was on roller bearings. If you only had to massage just one spot on one bearing you got a good block...

I never did understand why they made each bearing
size different... my 50mm rollers works just fine
with all of them being one size

front and rear bearing. front was the worst.

I install my own cam bearings, I do them one at a time now and check the cam fit with the cam going into that motor on each bearing,I corrrect(scrape them with a bearing knife) as needed before installing the next one