For flat tappet cam motors its Driven BR exclusively for me.

Second on the BradPenn break in oil , also use regular BradPenn in your engine , www.summitracing.com has these oils and free shipping.

Brad penn 30 WT. Break in oil and brad penn 10-30 after that.

I also run the crower light weight EDM lifters. Roughly 100 miles so far with only the outer springs. Inner springs are going on tonight and I'm gonna let her rip!

I just ordered up a case of Driven .. be here Monday

If your old enough, Arco Graphite oil is still around and in production. Its black gold.

Yeah I know of it... never used it

It looks like black ink and it goes everywhere. Ran it in a hemi MP car for three years and the motor was great. It was also like tar, that wound up everywhere and could push itself through everything. That why it lost in the consumer market. A worn gasket or seal and it be there. I was surprised to see that it is still being manufactured. All the bearing surfaces where coated with STP and the black oil was used as break in w/o any problems.

I think my oil shelf has both Brad Penn and Gibbs break-in oil. Flip a coin? Or is one really going to make a difference from the other? Oh, big block solid roller in this case.

Honestly, when I'm doing most roller motors I don't even bother with a dedicated break in oil...... But I wouldn't argue against it.
For the past several years I've been using Brad Penn 15w-40 for the roller motor testing.

For my roller engines I dont add anything special
and there is no break in.. set the timing and carb
and go beat on it.. then change the oil and filter
after the week end

Valvoline VR1 Racing oil is all I have ever used. I use it to break in my cams and use it for the life of my engines. I do add a bottle of ZINC at break in and oil changes and of course use the manufactures cam lube also at break in. But I have never wiped a cam lobe on any eng. Ron

This is the answer I got from Lake Speed at Driven wen I asked about adding break in additive to the BR40 oil:

"The BR40 does not need any extra additives, so I would not recommend using the additive with BR40. It can't help the BR40 work better. It already has the proper balance."

Thanks.... thats what I ordered

Too much ZDDP can cause corrosion inhibitors to become less effective. In general, you don't want to exceed more than 1800 ppm. This probably wouldn't be an issue for break-in, though. A while back, we tested several oils using neutron activation analysis to determine ZDDP content. We published the results, which can be downloaded here.

Here is a photo of Bullet's instructions that is with my new cam.

Thanks... thats what I expected and planned on doing

That's how I'm doing mine.4-5 Qt VR1 and a bottle of that zddp (?).

Pan holds 8, figure I will be dumpin' the stuff shortly?

Read #1 above. Shelf oils are high detergent, adding you zinc makes you feel good, but the detergents are fighting your additive, not the way to go. Buy the right oil from the start.

The pan I built holds 10 qts plus the filter and remote
lines... I only put 8 qts in it to keep it away from the crank

Specialty oils like Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs are typically lower in detergents than the run-of-the-mill stuff that you can pick up at AutoZone. While Rotella's deisel oil has high ZDDP content, it also has higher detergent concentrations than run-of-the-mill oils intended for use in gasoline engines.