Here's the backround on my car. I have over 6000 miles on my challenger 340 with the Mopar elect ignition package. I did all the work my self as far as wiring goes. I have the wiring diagrams and made a few mods to the car in order to accommodate a tilt steering column I got from flaming river in my car. Like I said cars been on the road for 3 years and runs great. I have an issue with ignition coils however, went a long time on a msd blaster 2, but I left the key on one time working on something and it popped its top, so I got an msd epoxy filled one, lasted one long trip then failed, then switched to the cheap yellow accel brand and prob lasted around 1000miles each ( went through 2). I since discovered that I made and error on my wiring and realized that power to the coil wasn't even goin through the ballast resistor. I have since eliminated one wire (brown wire) that shared a common contact with the drk blue. I now have around 12v in the crank key position and 6 v during run position.
All seemed well, I get around 14.8v during idle at the battery and about the same at the batt terminal at the alt, I saw it hit 15v initially after start up then it eventually went lower to 14.3v.
My question is, my multimeter is a nice unit (snap on) that has been calibrated but do these readings seem high?

Also is it possible to get voltage readings off a ballast resister pins and or the coil + and - terminals? I get some funky readings, that just don't seem right . And yes I have the meter reading on the appropriate scale.

Also I went through the bulkhead connections and all is well there.

Thanks a lot guys for any input you might have. Appreciate the help I always seems to get here and hope to gain some confidence in cursing this summer.

i believe this is reversed - "I now have around 12v in run key position and 6 v during cranking position." the purpose of the resistor is to lower current during run but give full power during crank to ease in starting.

Yes sorry I have typed that wrong, good catch. Forgive my crude post, I am posting from a phone I have edited my post to make the changes

there can't be that many problems that cause you to learn new words are there ?

I recently had similar issues with my cars factory wiring harness. I traced it to the blue wire which was melted under the dash. I eventually traced that to a pinched blue wire on my ignition switch. Yes, my car would run mid to high 14v and sometimes spike up above 15v. At the time I thought I had other issues because of the erratic readings and I replaced my alt and regulator which didn`t help due to the fact it was the blue wire shorting out. It toasted my red top opitima.

The blue wire feeds the ballast resistor and voltage regulator. It is hot in the key on position, but dead in the crank position. The brown wire feeds the coil, it is hot only in the crank position. The brown wire is designed to feed the coil 12 volts during cranking. The blue wire goes to the inlet side of the ballast, the coil + wire and the brown wire should be on the outlet side of the ballast when using a factory style ECU (4 or 5 pin. If using a MSD style box the brown and blue are tied together to feed the ignition on wire of the MSD. make sure the ECU and the voltage regulator are well grounded. A poor ground of the voltage reulator will cause an over charge condition.
Doug