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I will have the blocked decked. One concern now is the cam selection because I'm keeping the 3.23's for now, but will soon be switching to the 3.91's or even 3.73's.

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The term you need to use when speaking to your machist is Zero Deck the Pistons.. If you just tell him to deck the block he'll take a light pass to true the gasket surface, he needs to acurately know what your looking for...

As you already mentioned the camshaft selection is very important, I would suggest a Crower 271HDP it sfecs out with 222/234 duration .050 .486/.496 lift & 112 centers It's a good cam for a 383, I've got two friends running them & I plan to put one in my 383 next time I tear into it...

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John, I'm not doubting Dwayne made the number, I just don't think it was as mild of a build as was let on.

My combo FWIW:

383 block .030+ By CRE
3.915 crank. 450 cid
12.3:1 static cr (10cc domes; .004/.005 below deck
MCH ported Eddys milled to 82 cc's-- we all know the numbers, plus I had them locally flowed. Jeff's numbers are a hair conservative.
Comp Custom solid cam= .261/.266 @ .050 .578/.585 gross lift
Eddy RPM intake
950HP worked by Biggs
1 3/4 Headers

HP? Unknown at this time. Might get it on the dyno in the spring...

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I will have the blocked decked. One concern now is the cam selection because I'm keeping the 3.23's for now, but will soon be switching to the 3.91's or even 3.73's.

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I agree that they do not take much to get them going, but it seems that good compression is crucial in achieving it. Selecting cams and bolting on intakes and heads only works in fantasy land unless the motor had zero deck pistons to start with. My first builder just put in the pistons cleaned the deck and bolted on monstrous 906 open chambers...and gave me a motor that would not hold a tune to save its life.

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AS others have pointed out, don't go to big on the cam. When I rebuilt (re-ringed) my 383 a couple of years back, I put in the 509 because I wanted that prostock idle and I wanted to kill a little torque for the street (4spd, less wheel spin). It was fun romping around with that choppy idle but the power band dosn't kick in untill around 3000rpms.
My build is:
-.040 383 w/factory style flat tops & slighty decked. 9.10 calculated compression.
-516 heads, 2.14-1.81 valves, bowls ported and blended & straightened out exhaust ports. cced @ 72cc. Shim gaskets
-Holly SD w/800dp I know it's too big but all I had available and some old school Jardine headers.

The car has a 4spd and 3.91 gears so it makes the cam livable on the street. I'm either going to change the cam to a 528 solid or swap the gears to 4.30-4.56 for some extra zip in the street light grand prix.

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I'd swap in the .528 first .

sorry for all the posts , I was out of town over the weekend and had limited computer access ...

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So John, are you saying they didn't make the 450 like they claim in the Moparmuscle/Westech article? I was unaware of this if thats the case.

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I agree that they do not take much to get them going, but it seems that good compression is crucial in achieving it. Selecting cams and bolting on intakes and heads only works in fantasy land unless the motor had zero deck pistons to start with. My first builder just put in the pistons cleaned the deck and bolted on monstrous 906 open chambers...and gave me a motor that would not hold a tune to save its life.

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It takes more than a zero deck piston to get compression in a stock stroke 383 , the small bore is the killer. Doing the math on factory built 383's you BARELY get 9.3 compression out of a CLAIMED 10.0 factory spec , the pistons have to be poking out of the deck .020 AND the heads cut down to 79.5 vs the as delivered 90-92 cc. or you have to stick a 10cc - 12 cc dome on the piston which gets in the way of proper flame travel .

I wish KB made a step head piston for the 383 like they do the 440 and 400 instead of that POS KB162 , that would go a LONG way toward helping the 383 builder .

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With the second rebuild I paid very close attention to the #'s with the builder and he lamented that the piston choice was not the best. However, since they were in and in great shape he felt he could make them work. I don't have the numbers in front of me as to how much he took off the deck and how much he milled the heads, but I do know that him and I both took the time to make darn sure I was over 9:1 for compression. Consider it lessons learned...it seems like the manufacturers don't give a hoot about REAL 383's IMO.

How about the KB400's? What's your take on those? I've heard they are a better match for this issue, but have not had a chance to use them.

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So John, are you saying they didn't make the 450 like they claim in the Moparmuscle/Westech article? I was unaware of this if thats the case.

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I need to see the original build of the engine and I need to know WHEN that engine was run at Westech . 450 is definitely possible , but I'm curious as to the compression ratio of that engine .

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So John, are you saying they didn't make the 450 like they claim in the Moparmuscle/Westech article? I was unaware of this if thats the case.

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I need to see the original build of the engine and I need to know WHEN that engine was run at Westech . 450 is definitely possible , but I'm curious as to the compression ratio of that engine .

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John the compression was supposed to be 9.2:1. It was a September 2002 issue. I would have guessed the engine made 400-420 horse, they dynoed it at [Email]455@6000[/Email] rpm, which was the highest rpm tested. I thought the dyno doesn't lie I guess they must have done it but I've always been skeptical, it just seems a little to easy to make 450 horse with a 383 after reading the article. Maybe a happy dyno is the reason. Heres the article, let us know if the dyno was happy or not.


http://compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=1111284973

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That's is ok for all the posts more info helps. I should be getting a call from the builder today or Wednesday and will post what he finds when he opens the motor. Thanks

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Will the .528 cam affect the vacuum since I have power brakes,vacuum secondaries, and distributor?

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