Question....I've got a 54 Chrysler with stock rims. The rims bolt to the car. They are not held on by wheel studs and lug nuts. Is there any way around this so i can put on different wheels. The first suggestions i recieved were to perminent locktite wheel studs into the lugnuts changing the lugnuts into bolts. Not sure how i feel about ideas long term safety. Other ideas?

Can you post a picture of the wheel and drum so we can get a better idea of how they are mounted? I have an idea of mounting studs through from the inside of the drum but with a pic I'm not sure it would work.

You you have an alignment pin on the hub? My 38 Plymouth used wheel bolts too but had a pin to align the wheel in place while you bolted it up.

You can remove the pin and use any wheel that still uses the conical seat like the original rim. If you want to go with a shank type mag wheel then you have to run studs.

AZ_A12_BEE had went through something similar from memory on his 37 pickup...

From memory he drilled out the fronts to the correct size to use normal pressed in studs. (it had a non stock rear diff anyways IIRC)

Swap drums from another model car that may fit. Likely be such solutions.

Better yet, do a disc brake conversion from readily obtained sources.

What type of rims do you want to install?

depending on the hub/drum assembly, check very closely on the rivets that holds the assembly together don't interfere with the wheel you are going to use. if they do, a thin, 10 hole spacer will cure that problem. as to the stud issue, you may be able to use thin head hex or button head all thread wheel studs lock tighted to your hub/drum assembly. this solution will only work if you use two RIGHT side assemblies, as the driver side hub/drum should have left hand threads. if that won't work out, then choose studs that have enough length of knurl to almost go trough your hub/drum assembly, and enough thread length to safely retain the wheel of your choice.

They used to make lug studs.I had a set on the early straight axle I had on my 65.Then I ran Cragars.Rocky

if a guy could get some grade 8 or better all thread, you could make your own to whatever length you wanted, then locktite into place. i didn't look, but i "think" grainger's might carry 1/2x20 grade 8 all thread. you would still need two right hand hub/drum assemblies unless there is such an animal as 1/2x20 LEFT hand all thread. i never heard of any though.

Cragar used to make left hands.That was like in the 70s though.I thought I might have saved the ones I had but its been 40 years since Ive seen them.Rocky

There are a number of ways to attach a wheel to a hub. Most cars use either:
1. a number of studs attached to the hub with nuts with tapered seats holding the wheel on.
2. a number of studs with tapered seats turned into threaded holes in the hub

There are two styless of locating the wheel on the hub:
a. hub-centric
b. lug-centric

Many OEM wheels are hub-centric. I own a car on which the steel part of the hub rusted enough that I literally cannot get the wheel off.

Many aftermarket wheels are lug-centric. Modern manufacturing processes make this style virtually identical to hub-centric as far as centering the wheel accurately

If the lugs or lug nuts are properly tightened, there is no shear stress placed on the hubs. Friction between the wheel and hub actually supports the car. The lugs or studs provide the force to get the friction component high enough that movement does not take place, thus no shear.

Some tuners make a big deal about using hub-centric rings when placing their $$$$ wheels on your car. Most of these rings are plastic and I would suggest that if the lugs are off-center, the ring will deform to accommodate this. Meaning that the tuner's rings are a means to get money into his pocket while making you feel special.

The pins found on many cars that have studs instead of lugs are there to assist you when installing a wheel. It gives you something to hang the wheel on, kind of a third hand. They also usually keep the brake drum from falling off when there isn't a wheel to hold it on. I have removed them with no ill effects.

The use of studs isn't uncommon. Mercedes Benz cars use studs, I believe BMW also. My Peugeot 504 wagon used studs. Every Buick used them until the early '60s, IIRC. Chryslers used them for many many years.

The warning about rivets is valid.

Aluminum wheels can have much thicker centers than steel and I imagine it could be impossible to find a long left-hand thread stud with a tapered seat.

R.

I ended up going with screw in wheel studs. After talking with a lot of people and a manufacturer they said it was a good way to go especially since I'm only running about 230 hp and don't plan on road racing anytime ever. I tried posting pics but i hate the 2mb size i have to get under. Here's what she looks like now

Nice looking. Check them after a few miles.Mine would losen at times even with locktite.Rocky

That is a NICE CAR!

R.

beautiful Chrysler

Bought originally 3 miles down the road. Never left the county. Sat since 1968 less than 1 mile from my house and never knew it existed. Im the 3rd owner. 2nd owner found it and did some chevy upgrades . But still a cool car