I always try to look at my blessings instead of the bad stuff, but the last week has been tough. I lost my job on Friday. Not really too worried about that, I'm employable and will be just fine, but it will certainly tighten the finances for the foreseeable future, then this.......

Pulled the car out for a drive and had issues getting it started. Starter kicked back and I had to charge the battery to get it to turn over, which is strange for my car. Got it started but it felt strange, not running crisp, almost as if it was missing on a cylinder. Shut it down and looked around: Immediately saw water dripping from the pan rail. Checked the dipstick... YUK! water in the oil. crawled under that car and was able to trace the source of the water, which now was showing oil in it on my garage floor, to the passenger side head gasket. Now realized the starter kicked back because it was likely partially hydro-locked.

A head gasket isnt that big of a deal, but in light of my employment situation, its going to be hard to justify buying car parts.

This is the first time I've dealt with a blown head gasket. I'm assuming that protocol would be to pull the motor and go through it stem to stern to make sure I remove any moisture , as well as check the bearings for any damage that could have resulted from water in the oil?.... Anything else I should be alert for? Also, As I replace the head gaskets, I'd like to gather as much compression as possible. It had 440-source .055 head gaskets and static compression worked out to be 10.3:1. I've never had detination issues. Pistons are flat top with 5cc reliefs at zero-deck. What thickness would be optimal and safe?

Thanks for any replies.

Since the oil looks like chocolate milk you really should pull it and tear it down completely. If you hadn't gotten it running you might have gotten away with a flush and run it, but I wouldn't take the chance.

I would put a GOOD .040 head gasket in it, with Quench and Alum heads you should be able to handle the bump in compression, you should be under 11.0

Are your pistons positive deck height ?

Ya, just about gotta come apart to be safe. Try to diagnose the failure. How many miles on it? Composite gasket? Check the head bolt torque? Corrosion? You will know a lot more once the heads are off. Bummer!

Make sure you didn't bend a rod.

They are right at zero plus any piston rock which I didn't specifically make note of when I built it but remember a slight amount. I will measure it when I get the heads off. It was static 10.3:1 before, so it won't be under 10, unless your thinking dynamic ratio, John? Oil wasn't "chocolate milk", but showed white spots on the dipstick so your point is valid and I agree a check-up is in order.

Motor is 6 years since build; Probably around 6k-8k street miles and 84 passes. Composite gasket - yes. I assembled it with new ARP head bolts, but haven't re-torqued or looked at torque specs in years. I'll look closely at the Rods, which are Scat Steel H-beams.

Sorry to see this both the job loss and gasket issue..........I`d pull the motor as stated just to check everything out........

Iron or aluminum heads? Take the time to figure out exactly what caused the failure They normally don't fail for no reasons Good luck, let us know what you find

Aluminum heads, Cab. The good news is I'll have the time I need, although the wife may not see this as a priority and I certainly need to keep her happy.

I'll get it pulled and torn down and report back with findings. Remind me again why we do this??

I'd be curious to see if you find the gaskets hanging inside the chambers anywhere, of if they were sort of "on the edge".
The earlier stealth heads had chambers that were really pretty wide.

I'd agree with the statement above, check the gasket to chamber fit. I bought my stealths in 2012 and they were still really wide, the regular .039 fel pro overhung it a little. These things don't normally eat head gaskets so make sure you haven't got a crack anywhere. Good luck, you had her running pretty good, I've seen that trap speed in your sig creeping upwards.

I'd check the bearings for sure. But FWIW I had a late model GM V6 blow an intake gasket and really make a chocolate shake in the crankcase. Never checked it, but it was a cheap commuter engine. That was 130K miles ago and that engine is still going strong at 270K. Not saying you shouldn't check it but I think you'll be alright, sounds like you caught it early

I typo'd , I meant to type under or at 11.0 ...

Still a good idea to tear it down and clean good , check the rod in the cylinder that filled with water . Gasket set isn't that expensive.

Make sure you chase the headbolt holes , a friend had a water problem once ... it took 3 attempts till the builder discovered that there was one headbolt hole that was giving a false torque reading from galled threads, that engine build should have studs instead of bolts to begin with ... 500inch, 800hp race engine ...

You might check the torque of the head bolts as you REMOVE them. As double R & cab said keep your eyes peeled for evidence as you undo it piece by piece. $hit happens (but there is always a reason). WAG- bad gasket. check decks for flatness/chamfer bolt holes if needed & as said, depth/chase holes with a "thread chasing" type bottom tap

6 - 8K street miles and 84 passes before it failed? You running straight water or water / antifreeze mix? Run a PH test and electrolysis test on the coolant? Anything over .3 of a volt is not acceptable. Just thinking dissimilar metal / corrosion issues. Still could be what has been mentioned above, but kinda strange after that many miles. Any recent major over-heats?

Can you be more specific about which gasket from 440 Source you used? Is it something they still list on their web site?

I remembered incorrectly. They are the .051 compressed thickness grey gaskets.

Probably their (440 source) white gaskets that were made by Corteco.

The original orange Detroit Gasket .040" race gaskets, and the later version in the same size that was updated to an easier-to-disassemble white coating before Corteco bought DG, are very good.

I have suspected the .051" version that 440 Source sold (sells?) is a standard replacement gasket (think along the lines of the basic Fel-Pro Permatorque), not the more durable race-type part.

Myself... I'd be looking at the edge of the
gasket to the tapper on the bore... so look
closely at that point BEFORE you even pull the
gasket(hopefully it stays on the block)

I live close to you and I have a Cab Burge built 440 that needs to have it's muscles exercised. I have had it since 2012 and have never fired it. Send me a PM if you are interested and we will talk.