Working on the engine compartment of my car. Installing my new headers. Right side went in flawlessly. Now the drivers side. Have a new mini starter and NOS positive battery cable. The terminals on the starter and how the cable is don't match up. The cable would probably work if routed going forward from the starter, which would be odd and potentially interfere with the header. I didn't snap a picture (car is at friends' shop)to show exactly what I'm talking about.

On the cable ends there is a plastic "block" that separates the large end and small end. Thought maybe if I cut this block and then switch to mate with the studs of the starter might work but [ Moparts Family Site - Keep it Friendly ]

Hope this makes sense.

Advice/opinion? I didn't get much accomplish as tomorrow is another day.

Thanks

In general with the mini starters you need to remove the plastic terminal extension on the starter itself and separate the small and large feed wires.

With headers, not sure the NOS cable will work out for you... rather than cut it up, may be best to make something that fits as needed. Also, mini starters are sensitive to low voltage... heavier than OE cable helps, especially with hot re-start.

I have small block TTI headers on my car with a mini stater and I removed the plastic terminal extension block on the new starter. I routed the cable between the tubes at the largest opening and secured it to the frame to keep the cable from moving. My cable fit on the starter terminals with a little squeeze. My cable does connect to the starter from the front.

Already removed the plastic terminal on the starter. The studs on the starter and how the terminal ends are on the cable are opposite of each other. Both would work if I routed the cables forward of the starter and I know that won't look right with the header there. The cable has to go back to the firewall, then around to where the battery is

i put a lug on my fire wall then ran the wire straight back to the fire wall and up to the lug.then the run from the lug to the batt looks much cleaner and easier to rout.

I was going to enter from the firewall side but my cable wasn`t long enough. I was just going to flip the cable over.

I thought the cable gets routed from the firewall. The cable is 3764166, which is 43 1/2" long. But the way the cable ends are and the studs are on the starter won't work unless either 1) Rout the cables forward. Which if was routed forward, the headers are there. 2). There's a plastic "block" or whatever you want to call it that separates the cable terminals, cut that and flip the ends to match the starter.

What to do?

Forget the NOS cable...


(I used a 'non-NOS' cable...

And fabbed a bracket to keep the cable outta' the Hooker's...

Maybe this will help?

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...ter.html#UNREAD

Don't need to use the NOS cable but every one I've seen, the ends are the same. They are all opposite of what the studs on the starter are.

Do you have a picture of the bracket?

I'll try t get a picture of what I'm talking about

That was my post and the help I got from that post was spot-on. Use a small block cable which is longer and then the routing up the fender well will be correct and no interference.
Ron

On your car probably but on my car it came down the front past the motor mount. It`s a 77. By the way my cable ends were not opposite on mine. Maybe later cars are different. I have a NOS dodge van cable but it has the extra wires on it like my car. My cable end looks like this (bottom pic) On my wire I could just flip it over.

Try to get new wiring for a Dodge truck or van and modify accordingly but it will give you what you want with the correct mounting Also make sure you snug up the starter bolts tight I have had seen three different engines the bolts work loose where the starter was changed over from the big to small style.Can't say why but I really don't like using lock tight on those bolts

i was nervous about the cable on my coronet and running from the front side of the motor to the starter, very close to the header tube.

so i rerouted the cable to run up to the starter from the firewall, as insurance i put some heat shield cloth on the cable but it doesn't seem to even need it the way it is routed.

and yes, the starters are probably sensitive to low voltage, my truck wouldn't start the other day, all cables tight. it had just started fine minutes prior. pulled clamps off and reinstalled. no change.

i figured my starter was dead but i decided to the clean off my battery terminals and the clamps and reinstall them again before doing anything else. started right up!!!

I have the longer battery cables (small block). I thought the cables went from starter straight back to firewall, around to the battery side. The post you posted tells me it's not. Seems to me that it would be a cleaner look to route it this way and to stay away fro headers or OE exhaust. I'm going to the shop to see if it can be routed like this.

I wouldn't use the factory style wires. I just redid mine not too long ago to take care of slow starts after it was hot. I went to an audio installation place and bought really heavy guage power and ground wire, 0 & 2 guage iirc, and placed my own ends on. It's that really flexible high quality wire. I measured what I needed and cut it a little longer and routed it the way I wanted it to go. Wrapped the full length in the high heat reflective tubing and this thing fires off crazy fast at the flick of the key even when hot.

^^ yeah, make you own.

I made my own when I put the mini-starter on my '64 Polara. I did not use FireSleeve on the starter cable, but that is an option. I did use it on the 727 shifter cable in the race car and on the push button cable in the '64 to protect those from header heat.

It is easy to make positive and negative cables that are superior to NOS, after all they are made as cheaply as they can get away with.

Go to a welding supply shop for the best cables you will ever see.. Did this years ago to my 41 chevy trunk mounted battery... The welding store cables will have many more smaller strands within the sheath....

Well I put the original style cables on, along with the headers and starter. Guess I'll know what to do if there's an issue with them