.. I had to pull it, $50. Lol. Now lets see how much horsepower that stock block can handle.

Ok seriously though, after working 20 years with big blocks, this will be my first serious N/A small block build.

please excuse the noob questions..

This is a run of the mill 74 360, no windage tray, etc. Is there enough meat on the block for a 4-bolt main conversion (if even available)? Or would it make that area weaker on a stock block?
Is a stock mains and stud kit plenty for say 6500-6700 rpm (will be a 4" stroke crank)?

I'm sure I'll have more questions later on, thanks.



And got this for 10 bucks, cause nothing short of a dominator will do but that's way down the road.

I wouldn't do a four bolt main, weakens block. I ran stock 340 blocks harder then that with arp studs. I would also do a short fill to give it a little more stability.

There are guys who put 4 bolt caps on Pcar blocks but it is a waste of time and WILL make the block weaker.

BTW with that stroke and those mains, I would have no less that .0036-.0038 main clearance. The block will flex and eat up the clearance.

Not sure how fast you are lookin to go but I beat the snot out of a stock stroke iron headed truck 360 w/a clean up and GOOD valve job from Pettis, a solid Isky flat tappet cam and it went 11.80`s at L.A.C.R`s altitude track and was my daily driver............not stellar but fun..........

Not only the mains, mine was flexing enough the cam bearings had grooves in them.

sheesh! we went from R blocks and Ritter blocks to this??? at least we know you are sane now!! We had a nice 340 block build that went a best of 9.8's. Only had a roll bar so my dad was shifting at like 5800 with a 4.3 gear. Bumped it up to 6800 it really got with it... I'm betting more gear and some tuning we would have been able to get some 9.6's out of it.... unfortunately it met a leaky W5 untimely death. If those heads would have been worth a krap I'm betting we'd still be wheeling that mill.

4" stroke, 2 bolt main, 13.5 to 1 compression, Indy intake with 4500 adapter.




life was so much simpler then.....

Looks it a fun build. Im in the process of building one myself for my sister... Eagle rods K1 crank SRP Pistons 4in stroke. Solid flat tappet and Edelbrock heads. I ran a 408 built on a 1999 block with 360-1 . It was a 2 bolt Main...man put a ton of passes on thing.good luck

@ Thumperdart - looking for high 9's @ 3100#. Going tomorrow to buy a used 1050 Dominator, will be sending it to you when I'm ready

@ 1967dartgt & madscientest - roger that, no 4-bolt mains. ARP mains studs on stock or aftermarket caps?

@ J-Body R's are out there, but suddenly the prices went Sky High, guess cause now when they are no longer being produced. Talked with a few people about the Ritter block,
machine costs alone would be quadruple to a very well machined/prepped stock block. So had to go with plan 'c'.. the 50 dollar engine lol.

Indy 360-1's are still the plan.

Now the short fill question. Necessary for a street driven engine that'll only see the track twice a year @ the ET i'm gunning for?
I'm not fond of filled blocks, however if it makes it more stable, I guess I'll have to be open to the idea.

@ whitedart good to know the 2-bolt mains held up, thanks.

Studs and a short fill. Good to go.

Looks like it has 587 heads. You have block and heads to run high 9s at 3100lbs. Even if they are 596 head castings they are fine. Sonic test block. Reject it and find another if major thrust will be less than .187 and .160 minor after boring. No fill needed, just makes the block a heavy pig. Restrictor tubes and oil pathway mods a good idea. A QMD port job and good guide and valve job and of course good valves and hardware. Program 2 bolt caps on middle 3. A steel 4" or 4.125" crank, a set of 6.25 rods and flat top pistons about .08 above deck, like a factory 340, just taller. A racer Brown STX22 solid flat tappet cam. Victor intake. Basically a copy of engine in my Demon. Passed 2100 runs this weekend at Beacon Dragway. Pistons never removed from the block and no valve job since original assembly . Went 6.22 at 108.50 Saturday night, and made a near perfect run first round today with no time run. .0000 on the tree and 6.2410 on 6.24 dial. Best engine I ever had! And in the 1980s everybody told me 360s were junk, don't waste your time and money on them. Runs best with 28* timing, crank trigger.

Oh, more smallblocks whoopin on big blocks...........I get it.......... I`ve got blocks, boosters and bowls lookin for a good home............

Can you tell me the specs on the STX22.. I
couldnt find them on line.... I'm looking to
change cams... thanks

its on this list.
http://www.4secondsflat.com/RB%20Cam%20Specs.htm

STX-21M 306 272@.050 .560 .597

Thanks..... what LSA are the STX22 ground on.. and I assume
its a solid FT cam

SSH -Super Street Hydraulic
STH Super Tork Hydraulic
SS Super Street Mechanical
ST- Super Tork Mechanical
STX and STR Roller cam grinds
EH Mild Hydraulic and economy grinds

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Racer_Brown_Cam_Specs.html

Thanks... I'll look for something else

STX-22 310 276 .590
It's on this page:
http://www.4secondsflat.com/RB%20Cam%20Specs.htm

Jim will pretty much grind his lobes on the LSA you want. He also has lobes not on that web site. You just have to call him.

I'm using a lobe not on Dons site.

@ qwkmopardan ~ thanks for the info. Didn't think those "smogger" heads had enough flow for a 9 second pass. Nice combo BTW.

@ thumperdart you bet buddy :thumb: & duly noted expect a package later on

Solid rollers question: I know they are spendy, but PITA to install & clearance or pretty straight forward? Thanks.