More efi then adder question
[Re: SpareParts]
#2068851
05/07/16 02:33 PM
05/07/16 02:33 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696 Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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I am exploring my cam sync options on turbo /6. Since it will be a coil per plug set-up, I can ditch the distributor and would like to clean up that area anyway. Can I simply install/mount a magnet to the front cam sprocket and mount an adjustable pickup thru the sheet metal timing chain cover? My 60-2 reluctor solution is already figured out. If so, do I want the magnet closer or farther from the rotating center of the cam? Do I have to be concerned if drilling with any loss of strength, or balance, since motor will never be over 5k and cam speed is half that?
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: More efi then adder question
[Re: tboomer]
#2068890
05/07/16 04:11 PM
05/07/16 04:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,938 Sonora CA
Mopar_Rich
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,938
Sonora CA
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Mounting a cam sync off the timing cover is a great way to go. I have done this many times. The process is buying a cam sync sensor like the MSD 2346 and installing the magnet in the cam gear (drill and epoxy in the magnet). There are some considerations: 1) If the cam gear is ferrous you must isolate the magnet with the aluminum collar that comes with it. 2) The magnet has a N and S end. You must mount it with the N side out. If at all possible you should check the signal from the sensor before committing. I have had several 2346s when the N/S wasn't marked at all. It must be positive going first. I check my magnets on the bench, with a wood wheel mounted to a drill, and an oscilloscope first. 3) Sheet metal timing covers are flimsy and pretty thin. The sensor screws in, so if a cast cover is not available add a stiffener on the outside to give you some thread thickness. 4) Decide on the EFI system first so you will know what the cam signal timing must be. It'll work great!
Last edited by Mopar_Rich; 05/07/16 04:14 PM.
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Re: More efi then adder question
[Re: Mopar_Rich]
#2068893
05/07/16 04:16 PM
05/07/16 04:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,938 Sonora CA
Mopar_Rich
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,938
Sonora CA
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If you really want to go COP, then I would strongly suggest the Holley-EFI HP or Dominator rather than FAST. Much easier to set up, smaller, coil drivers inside one box, etc ...
I forgot to answer your other question. You want as much velocity past the sensor so mount the magnet near the outer edge of the cam gear. The signal is RPM dependent, so this affects only starting, but it IS a consideration.
Last edited by Mopar_Rich; 05/07/16 10:14 PM.
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Re: More efi then adder question
[Re: Mopar_Rich]
#2068954
05/07/16 06:46 PM
05/07/16 06:46 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696 Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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Thanks, that all helps a lot. I was thinking of building up a reinforced indexable pickup on the timing chain cover, for the two reasons you mentioned, adjustability, and stiffness. That was related to my question on mounting distance to center of the cam, smaller radius is easier, but I will take you suggestion. Did you mention magnet off balance created issues/concerns? Maybe we /6 could get Andy to do a run of billet 225 covers while he is hot to make alum chips.
Last edited by jcc; 05/07/16 06:47 PM.
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: More efi then adder question
[Re: tboomer]
#2068990
05/07/16 07:45 PM
05/07/16 07:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,938 Sonora CA
Mopar_Rich
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,938
Sonora CA
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Balance? Not an issue. The magnet weight is a very close match to the metal drilled out. And remember the cam is at half crank RPM. BTW: Regardless of the ECU you have a fairly wide window for the signal to occur (+/- 30 degrees). It's only telling the ECU when to start the sequence. It has no effect on ignition timing. So the cam sensor does not have to be adjustable. Just take the time to position the sensor in the middle of the acceptable range and bolt it in. A little off either way will not matter. As to Andy... The /6 market is pretty small. When I wrote that "Leaning Overkill" EFI article there was a lot of curiosity but not that much business. This is yours truly checking injector sequencing on that motor.
Last edited by Mopar_Rich; 05/07/16 09:59 PM.
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Re: More efi then adder question
[Re: tboomer]
#2069340
05/08/16 01:49 PM
05/08/16 01:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540 Milwaukee WI
TRENDZ
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540
Milwaukee WI
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Also pay attention to the magnet's pole. Most hall sensors trigger off of the south pole of the magnet.
"use it 'till it breaks, replace as needed"
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Re: More efi then adder question
[Re: tboomer]
#2071020
05/10/16 08:53 PM
05/10/16 08:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540 Milwaukee WI
TRENDZ
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540
Milwaukee WI
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Yeah the jeep sensors make a real clean looking install. Made one for a sbc out of a removable top mallory distributor.
"use it 'till it breaks, replace as needed"
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Re: More efi then adder question
[Re: TRENDZ]
#2071108
05/10/16 10:55 PM
05/10/16 10:55 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696 Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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I'm in the process of installing an alum bung in a /6 Clifford intake turbo set-up for an IAT. Since turbo heat and the fact the intake and exhaust effectively share the same space, and its an efi dry manifold, how much concern do I need to have with heat soak with the IAT? I am epoxing the injector bungs in to provide a little help with thermally isolating them, maybe I should epoxy the IAT bung also? Does it need a mounting ground/shield? The epoxy I have chosen is high temp (600F) kinda pricey industrial stuff.
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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nitrous bottle valve...
[Re: Clanton]
#2074584
05/16/16 04:19 PM
05/16/16 04:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,362 Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,362
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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This is an older Compucar bottle, bought in 2004 I think. Can anyone tell me how much nitrous you can spray w/ this valve before it becomes a restriction?
edit...OK, so right after I posted this, I called Compucar to see what they say. Should have just called them first, but oh well. Ernie says this thing will flow 1,000 hp if I needed it to. Says they use a 5/8" siphon tube compared to a 3/8" tube used in the NOS brand bottles. Pretty sure he said 5/8".
You hear a lot of things from people about some valves not flowing as much as hi-flow valves and whatnot. My other bottles are NOS bottles w/ the 45° handle and hi-flow valves.
Last edited by an8sec70cuda; 05/16/16 04:30 PM.
CHIP '70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60 '69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60 '71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75 '73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75 '90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt '06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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