I am trying to get my car all hacked up and reinforced for the G Force GF5R transmission and was hoping you all could help out with locating the engine/trans and crossmember.

Unfortunately I didn't see the G Force swap coming so we didn't measure anything prior to removing the transmission. Adding to that is that the rear spring are junk. The rear segment of the longest leaf is bent on both sides so measuring anything off of the diff is of no use.

Getting into the details, the car sits 2.5* nose down measured off of the inner fender well ('66 B-body). I was assssssuming that the carb flange should be level (0*) however there no clearance between the hemi style oil pan and draglink/centerlink or whatever you want to call it.

I'd like to think that if the carb pad was level the crank centerline would be 3* down but I have not got that far.

I'm not really sure where to start here other than I know the following:

1) The transmission should be angled down.
2) Drag link to oil pan clearance must exist - how much?
3) The headers must have clearance for both the floor pan and torsion bars.

Any thoughts? How much clearance do you guys have between you draglink/centerlink and the oil pan? I can see where our setup was VERY close but not rubbing.

Hopefully I'll have the engine in a week or so and then I can install it and the headers to see where we are at in real time. In the mean time take me to school!

I would wait until the motor is in the car with the heads and headers and then measure and worry about the oil pan to steering center link. I had about 1/2 inch on my old Duster with the wheels straight ahead, the center link would hit the passenger side of the oil pan when turned to the max for right turns It didn't turn as far to the right at it did to the left
Changing the subject, I hope to have my 1966 Coronet Deluxe in my shop in the next two weeks to start on swapping the 6 cylinder K member out and installing the new front suspension parts and disc brakes along with the 440 motor and the NP 833 O.D. tranny behind it I may be able to help you more on the stock angles and clearances then

Thanks Cab! Much appreciated. I am for sure going to install the engine in the car with the headers prior to breaking out the welder.

If this is the same center link as a 63 B body, the link fits on two ways. There is about .75 inches in clearance between the two. It looks like it won't make a difference, but it does. And it would seem the "right way" the link looks, is actually the wrong way.

As I recall, the link, shaped like a "U", the bottom of the "U" goes to the front.

I checked a bunch of cars at the track last summer, and everyone, including my race car, was on backwards. Handling and geometry are the same either way, but it makes a clearance difference.

Cars with conventional rubber motor mount biscuits need more safety clearance than with polyurethane biscuits, which need more than engines with motor plates.
If you smack the link hard enough to do anything, your toe and bump steer will go out.

Any others want to weigh in on this topic? Man, this place has really dropped off! C'mon back!

Why not, elephant ears, rubber trans mount and I have very little clearance between the link and pan maybe 1/4" and it hits the pan on full turns.............

Thank you Dom, that's what I was after. This car is going to retain the stock mounts for now. The black car has a motor plate so I'll be asking again when it's time comes!

4150 carb, stock style motor mounts, stick shift...nothing to be scared of for the casual onlooker. Well, other than the body style. It's a '66 Charger and that will frighten almost anyone!

I`m frightened just thinking about it...........lol!

This is a low deck in a 62 valiant with a V8 Drop link theres about 1/2 of a inch of clearance. If you need a more accurate measurement let me know and after i got out of work ill take a better measurement

Center link on my Charger was hitting the pan keeping it from being properly aligned. Taking it out and end for ending it gave the needed clearance. I have rubber mounts, a Milodon 5 qt pan, and a CAP k-frame.

I had to do this on my 67 Fury - This is with the steering all the way one way - I really wanted that fabbed aluminum pan to fit!

Thanks for the replies. I was looking at our stock 383-4 barrel '66 Coronet and it has about 3/4" between the link and the stock pan. I'll let you all know how it stacks up with the Milodon road race pan in a few weeks...if I remember lol.

Thanks again!

[url=[URL=http://s45.photobucket.com/user/bubby440/media/20160403_184318_zpstbzhtidf.jpg.html][/url]]pan clearance[/url]

This is an old Proform pan i've been running on my Roadrunner for 25 or so years, there's 3/16 clearance.

It is a little hard to tell from that photo, but I believe if you swapped that link end for end, you'd have more clearance. I know it doesn't seem like it makes a difference, but it does.

Edit I didn't see what 71 Charger said above, but it is an example of the difference in how the link is on there.

The link in my car has no significant difference from one end to the other. I have had no issues thus far.

Be sure youre steering wheel is centered, and for that matter the box being indexed correctly on the pitman. Ive heard some replacment worm shafts dont have a master spline, so you can be off somewhere in the mix.

I had a 31580 milodon hit just before full lock turning right. I hadnt aligned the car since I had it and a stock pan cleared fine. Centering things up like they shouldve been provided the needed clearance.

Torque strap is a must with stock mounts. I think you will be fine after checking these details.