Would you still be able to cut a decent light on a pro tree (4 tenths tree)footbraking if you something like the throttle stop above.

Keep it simple. Try unhooking the linkage to the rear of the carb. Run it as a two barrel. It will put you close. Then adjust weight, take it out or put some in as needed. It wooked very good on a 3000 pound car that ran 10.40s. first run went 10.88. A trick Steve Petty showed me 10 years ago. Jr

This is the best way, the champ in10.0 has had it in there cars past few years at our track.

I'm cheap and was considering this. Maybe mark the cable in increments once I can tell how much a set amount kills.

I'm cheap also... I made my mech throttle stop.. very simple
and it works.. I'll see if the pic will post... I made this
for my 1050 dom.. but you can see the idea
EDIT
The front round part slides into a hole the then
rolls down over the rear carb stud... I did this
so I could change over quickly so I could race
2 classes.. took all of about 2 minutes to change
that and reset the shift light and 2 step
I ran 6 or 7 10.002-10.007 in a row doing it this
way.. I was super happy with it

Put a 'Glide in it . . . . . . Too obvious?

Yeah that would be the cheap way to go

I know many people that use the ez plate. Deadly consistent also...
http://www.restrictorplate.com/howitworks.html

I would spend about $1000 on things that you thing should make it go faster lol

Hmmm, interesting...

Well, Mike, GY3 didn't mention CHEAP in his original post, so I just tossed an option on the table that nobody else had mentioned. Many, if not most cars that are set up to run 1/4 mile slow down both 60' and ET when a 'Glide is installed. In their defense, they are usually more consistent, less dependent on track prep, a little easier on drive line, and need less of a burnout, which saves on tires.

So while not a cheap option, it's a valid one

I would use a combination of weight and plate.

I think the Grid is the easiest. And it lets you leave WFO to try to cut the .400 light

I've been running index since the early 90's. A fine thread bolt is as good as anything. I've found the car leaves the same on or off the stop. Have slowed my car .70 this way. With proper record keeping you can learn how to move the car .01. Won a lot of N/SS races with this method.
Doug

When I first bought the Arrow it would run 9.60s all out. Believe it or not with only 4 tenths in the timer and an air operated T/S the car was killer consistant.