Guys,

I have an issue that has been a tad annoying on my Charger from day one. Anytime I drive the car and get it good and hot and then cut it off, it's a roll of the dice if I can get the starter to turn it over fast enough to start for 5-8 minutes after it is cut off. This makes it a real PITA to stop and get gas, etc.

The motor is a 499 stroker 10.4:1 compression so I do have a lot to turn over. I recently did a cam swap to lower the cranking compression and make the motor more pump gas friendly. DCR went from 8.51:1 --> 7.8 with the new cam.

I was hoping this cam would help somewhat with the starter but seems to be about the same. When the motor is cold, the starter can spin it like a top. Battery is good and new Interstate brand and electrical system/cables are in excellent shape.

I also have a starter blanket installed but that didn't fix it. I also have headers which one tube is about 1/2" from the starter so it gets baked pretty well down there. The starter itself is a brand X from AutoZone. I had the initial timing down to 14* which didn't seem to help either and I need to run more than that anyways.

I know I am not the only one here with a mild stroker like this and headers. What starter can I buy that will be more impervious to this heat soak issue??? Would one of the "performance" units like PowerMaster do better or I am throwing money away?

Does anybody have a brand/part number for a mini-starter that they have experience working well in this situation?

Thanks!!

IMHO there's your problem, your using production junk, I have several of the Powermaster standard Hi-Torque and "clockable" Hi-Torque (200ftlb) mini starters in use on my toys, the oldest being 14 yrs old, and totally reliable being under the hood of a wingcar, which from it's nature has higher underhood operating temps due to restricted airflow, so heat soak is always an issue I like to avoid


What's your CCA on the battery your using?

600 CCA 750 CA

Exactly what type of brand X autozone starter is it? Early gear reduction type? later mini starter? back in the day the various gear reduction starters were semi-specialized for the application, for example a /6 starter wouldn't be the same as a 440 HP would, for a reason. Today's rebuilts are a crap shoot.

ive used JY mini staters on everything.had to ding in headers they were so close,never caused a prob..only time ive had the prob you describe it ended up being a ground issue

I use factory mini starters in everything. Even my 15-1 fixed 34 timing 572 w/o issue. Either a bad starter or bad wiring in my opinion. Do a voltage drop test while cranking. Connect a voltmeter from the battery positive post to the starter lug during the hard crank. Being it is connected positive to positive it should read no more than 1 volt. Do the same between the negative post and the starter case. If both read less than one volt I'd replace the starter. If more than one volt fix the cables. This assumes a good battery.
Doug

I asked for the starter that fit a 1992 Ram 5.2L and they had it in stock. No idea other than that. It's the typical mini-starter from what I can tell.

Should be ok, only thing that goes wrong in those is the copper disc inside that makes contact and energizes the motor.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4779651&cc=1084878&jsn=400

For the application you mentioned.

I doubt its the starter.My 440 with 2 inch TTIs and a at least 15 year old reman from Advance cranks like a /6 My kids 413 with big headrs and a 440 Source did as well.My starter is right next to the headers.Look at battery,cables I run 1 gauge.We used mostkly Advance remans at work AZ not as much but really didnt have many problems.Ill bet you cables are the wimpy OE style or old.Seems people wont upgrade them.I can run my 12.5 440 all day and it still starts fine.Remember on batterys and cables bigger is better.Ohy starter is for a 99 360 Ram.There are at least 2 and one is not as heavy as the other.The 360 is the big one for sure.Rocky

They are reproduction but they are definitely not oversized. I'm guessing 2 or 4 gauge. I wouldn't mind a fatter set but I don't know where to find ones that fit my car.

Anybody here make these for a 1973 Charger BB? I also had to have the leads that went to the starter lengthened by 6" to give enough length to get to the terminals on the back of the mini-starter and get around the headers.

Anybody here make these to spec?

I really don't trust any of the chain store china built starters. It's a roll of the dice that you get a good one.
I only recommend the factory Nippondenso starter from Mopar or get one from Denso Direct. I have had a junkyard starter on my Savoy for over 10 years and it works perfect for $30.00 plus $16.00 for some new contacts.
I agree with Doug about checking voltage drop at the cable

Gus

Sadly this is quite a difficult test for me to do. It is near impossible to get a lead on the terminals on the starter as the terminals are right up against the block on the backside of that starter.

Add to that burning hot headers and I don't see me being able to fit the starter with the volt meter while it's hot. Trust me, I'd love to rule out one or the other.

BTW the cables are pretty much new and look to be in good shape but they are OEM gauge. However, I can't imagine everyone here that doesn't have 1 gauge cables has my issues.

If I do end up popping for a "performance" starter (aka not reman parts store), which one do I go with? I need to make sure it is dimensionally identical to the unit I have and will stand up to the headers.

Thanks!

Mancini Racing offers genuine Denso starters in a few different flavors.I would go for mid range price one at $141

Gus

Any advantage to the more expensive PowerMaster units? Most look to be the same unit as the Denso's. Am I just paying for the name on the unit or will they be heavier duty than the $141 Denso?

We used tons of reman from Advance in probally thousands of them and alternators we had a few like less than 10 not up to snuff.When I bought mine 75 bucks for a reman was shop price and cheap.That was in like 99 or so.My kids new from 440 source was less than 70 new if I remember correct.Like I said there are two differnt ones for sure.The lighter is usually smaller motors 360s use the big ones.cables i use NAPA s 1 gauge which are pretty generic.Measure get length and install.Rocky

I checked several parts sites and they show the same part number for 5.2 and 5.9L applications.

What about something like this that is clock-able to help with installation? Any experience with these expensive units holding up better than the standard units?



What application? Were these high compression BB strokers with headers or more OEM setups?

Like I said when it's cold my starter will spin the motor like a top....but something is getting heat soaked.

I've had a mini w/heat shield underneath some Hooker's for many moons...

No issues...



MR shows a choice of 14 different starters...


Call 'em, and talk to Wes...

His problem is not the starter. It could be a poor connection, poor wires, poor battery or dying voltage regulator. On my 440 when the regulator went bad it would start up great when cold but slow when hot just like the op said his does. I also thought the problem was heat, headers, and a junkyard mini starter. New VR and problem solved. BTW, problem did not show up on the ammeter.

To me the hibuck starters are a waste.In 90 degree days I can run my 440 in the lanes race and it still cranks like a ?6/Even driving around town its tha same.i have 12.5 domes so your low compression should turn real fast.My kids 300 413 had 2 1/8 inc tubes and really aroundhis mini.It still cranked fast.He ran 1 gauge cables also.I used to watch my old factory cables smoke when cranking.Went to 1s and no problems.Rocky

I have a Power Master starter on my 63 thats been on it since 2006 and has never given a problem. On all my other cars including the 400 in my sons Dart I use the Mopar starters. The one on my sons Dart is listed for the V/6 (3.9) truck eng and has been on it since 1997 and never had a problem. But I also agree with Doug & Gus as you have to test the system out and see what the problem is. The voltage drop test is a very good test for the starter system in finding bad cables or connections. I would also want to see what the battery does when this happens and what the starter draw is when it happens. Sure you can throw a starter at it and see what happens but the right thing to do is check the system out and find out what is causing your problem. I would also take all my test readings cold when the starter is working good and then when its acting up as that may help in diagnosing it. Good luck , Ron