Hello!

I am in the process of starting to figure out what to do on the ignition systems on a couple HEMI cars I have.

I do have the right cast iron dual point distributor cores, however Id prefer to avoid using the original points ignition system. I would much rather use an electronic ignition setup and an ignition box with a rev limiter.

I have heard about the pertronix conversion where I believe all the internals on the stock distrobutor are swapped out for the pertronix setup and no external ign boxes are needed. However I have heard more than once that they are unreliable and not that good.

Also, I have heard that others like to use the stock points setup just to act like a trigger for an external ignition box that is to be hidden out of sight to keep everything looking stock. I have also heard that if the stock points is just used as a trigger for the ignition module, that the points wont ever burn, hence, this being a very reliable setup.

Now question is, if tge stock points are to be used as a trigger for the ignition box, I guess itd be better to just convert the dual point original distrobutors I have to just a single point setup?

Also, some people use the MSD 6al boxes to do this, however, the MSD boxes are big and bulky and require a bit of extra wiring to be added which would give extra work to hide.

...so I was thinking maybe going with one of those rev-nator boxes which look like a stock ECU and also have a built in rev limiter would be the ticket? I also believe Don at FBO systems also offers an ignition box that is basically the same thing as a revnator, looks like a stock ECU and has a built in rev limiter....I wonder which one of these 2 is the better one of the 2.

Any ideas?

Oh and also, now that we are on this subject....who would be the guy to have my stock distributors sent out for rebuild?

Domingo,
This is my opinion on the question you asked.
I have a distributor machine and mess with recurving/ rebuilding mopar distributors.

If you are having issues with proper operation of your distributors the curve should be tested on a Syncrograph Distributor Tester. Adjustments can be made to get them within specification. After they are in working order then other changes can be with knowledge that the distributor is working properly.

Now if you are looking for ease of install and reliability the Pertronix would be the way to go. Issues I see no parts available at the parts store, mail order only. I have seen weak a signal from the pertronix at low RPM, start up, on a couple dizzys that I have worked on. One pertronix was over 15 years old. A hot Pertronix coil that looks stock can be used.

I personally like the HEI, it is a 12 volt system unlike chryslers electronic that uses a ballast resistor to bring the voltage down to 6 volt. A hotter e-coil can be used. The draw back is the coil does not look stock. With the hei you can use the stock distributor. More wiring is need than the pertronix set up.

I have used the factory dual point Prestolite distributors for 46 years on the street, in my 11 second race car and my low mileage show cars with no problems. I have always had the advance curve modified for full mechanical advance for better performance but never felt a need to go electronic. The big advertising point for the electronic ignition was always reliability and maintenance free but I have heard of plenty with problems and have seen a significant loss in performance in a couple of cases that I was personally involved with. I think it also makes the engine compartment in a show car look unoriginal when you see a control box and different distributor. If you have the correct distributors, I would stick with them. Switching your ignition over is not necessarily going to make your car better...especially a Hemi car. Are you planning to drive it 20,000+ miles per year and don't want to worry about points or what?

Having had multiple Hemi cars over the years, I've come to the conclusion that if you have a good working Prestolite dual-point, you are wasting your time and money converting it to the electronic distributor. As JD mentioned, are you planning on driving 20,000 miles a year? If they are original hemi cars, I doubt you're going to really rack up the miles. If you have good secondary components, coil, ballast, v. regulator just use the points distributors. They work just fine and are very reliable.
I also agree with the look of a converted ignition system. They look like turd and it indicates that other things probably aren't really original either. Just my two cents.

All I've ever ran and zero issues,you would be surprised the amount I've done for from others that feel the same way.

I run a dual point distributor in my Duster. It gets whipped pretty good. While I have 2 distributors for it (different curves) in all the years I have been racing it the distributor never really falls out of tune. From time to time, usually every spring I throw them in the machine and spin them up. I wonder why I do it. I guess for piece of mind and mostly because I can. I was born when Electronic Ignition was standard. People really [censored] about points... I'm not sure why.

OK guys! Thanks for the replies....I think Im gonna restore and use my dual points then ...after all I do have em.

Now that we are on subject...

The cars Im considering using the original dual points on are....obviously....rare collectable cars. Thats why Im concerned about keeping the original distributors....

Now, what should I do about:

the ballast resistors (which are good? should I look for NOS only??)
Ignition coil: I know repro units are available, but are they good? If not, what should I get if I plan to run the dual point dists? A link to what I should get would be great.
Ignition wires: I need these for 2 original HEMI cars, and then I need some sets for some 440-6 cars. But I have heard that the repro wires, specially for HEMIs, are junk. They look ok, but are junk. What should I do here?

I mean, I like my rare cars to look original and correct once done, at least to the point where it still makes sense, because I DO intend to drive em. Not be judged under a tent and argue about a paint run that should be there or not.

That's because those of us "back in the day" that had point(s)/condensers in our daily drivers knew they always crapped out when you needed them the most, early morning/going to work, or when it was time to go home after a long day at work, and always when it was pouring rain/snowing outside...then as our daily drivers got older, and electronic ignition was the "norm" just finding a parts counter worker that knew what points were was enough, never mind finding a store that had them in stock...Ahhh the "good O'l days", yeah points were just great..lol, make my ignition Pertronix please

Yep...


Got OEM-style electronic ignition...


Set the 'gap' at the reluctor once, twenty years ago...


Zero issues...



I'd never go back to points unless it was a show poodle that ain't gettin' driven...

I'd like to have a duel point just to keep in the trunk as a backup in case my Firecore goes TU.

Well, I have had plenty of problems with my point distributors. Once the bushings start to get old, the shaft wobbles and changes your dwell all over the place...not to mention burned points. If you want electronic, but want to look stock, just put in a '72-'74 distributor and hide whatever box you want (glovebox, trunk under rear speaker panel, under the spare tire). The one thing I don't know is if the RB distributor is compatible with a Hemi (never owned a Hemi).

With age my '69 340 dual point began to move away from the official dwell angle specification, and I had to resort to guestimate tuning. Later I replaced the timing chain, but that didn't fix it. Bought a new distributor, but that didn't fix it either.

Anybody know how to fix this?

What's it do with your vacuum advance disconnected?

The car is in restoration and not running now.