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jeep ZJ lift kits springs or spacers?
#2000407
01/28/16 01:31 PM
01/28/16 01:31 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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my new to me 98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 limited 4x4 needs a better stance with some new tires. I see both lifts springs/coils and all at different price.
I want cheap but want everything needed to keep chassis in stock alinement specs.
not looking for high lifts with big tires. rather raise the front about 2" higher than the rear at stock ride height. I have already ditched the stock 16" rims for some 8" x 15" spoke rims with a 4" back set with 235/75/15 good year wrangler radials.
I want it nose up a little to transfer weight to the rear and give it that nose up stance. more for trail/sand dunes off road. not much just enough to notice.
rear center wheel well is 33" front wheel well is 31"
so spacer lift kit says to measure and add difference of the 2 measurements to level it on all 4 corners. = 2" to level ride height all 4 corners.
so a 3" spacer would put it 1" higher up front. or a 4" for 2" higher front ride height.
so here are some ?s I have before I decide what to buy.
1) what's all needed for a 3" spacer lift up front? same ? for a 4" lift.
2) at what lift is a track bar drop or adjustable rod needed?
3) at what lift does it need longer control arms? 4)how much lift before front driveshaft problems? (CV front end/double u-joint rear on shaft)
pros and cons on spacer lifts VS spring lifts?
TIA
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 01/28/16 01:36 PM.
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Re: jeep ZJ lift kits springs or spacers?
[Re: Cooter]
#2007260
02/07/16 11:46 AM
02/07/16 11:46 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
OP
I Live Here
|
OP
I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
|
the front shaft is MIA when I got it. it has the cv on the axle end. I have never worked with/seen one this style.
I have not been able to find one either. I got a part# from the dealer from the VIN# and no longer available.
right now with the front shaft out it works pretty smooth full lock turns. I do feel the LS diff working and seems to be in good shape.
turning the front yoke by hand it does not seem to have much play in the chain.
both engine & trans mount are shot, I was told the shaft was removed to keep the engine/trans from moving around under power. with rear shaft only it takes a lot of throttle from a stop to get it to move/feel/hear it so I take it easy.
mount get replaced next week and will have a nice muff replace the dinky junk replacement that is on it.
with the mounts bottomed out it has pulled the xfer shifter out of the plastic bushing and does not want to shift to low. I did get it in lo long enough to try it a little. this should be good when mounts are replaced.
been busy with it replacing the neglect of service. so far I have replaced
BATT. ps pump ps pump pully front wheel bearings x2 front cv axles x2 front brake rotors & pads x2 rear brake pads x2 tensioner pully idler pully valve cover gaskets serp belt left headlight bulb tag light bulb x2
all stock pieces except for the 2 idler pullys. 18 yrs for stock VC is almost unheard of now days.
working on
rad flush ( cant find drain plug for rad? ) under hood light fog lights ( can hear relay clicking ? ) horn rear wiper motor
now if I can only find a correct drive shaft for it. I have a front shaft and a front pinion yoke but don't want to convert it with a crush sleeve on the pinion..last resort maybe.
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 02/07/16 11:57 AM.
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