my new to me 98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 limited 4x4 needs a better stance with some new tires. I see both lifts springs/coils and all at different price.

I want cheap but want everything needed to keep chassis in stock alinement specs.

not looking for high lifts with big tires. rather raise the front about 2" higher than the rear at stock ride height. I have already ditched the stock 16" rims for some 8" x 15" spoke rims with a 4" back set with 235/75/15 good year wrangler radials.

I want it nose up a little to transfer weight to the rear and give it that nose up stance. more for trail/sand dunes off road. not much just enough to notice.

rear center wheel well is 33" front wheel well is 31"

so spacer lift kit says to measure and add difference of the 2 measurements to level it on all 4 corners. = 2" to level ride height all 4 corners.

so a 3" spacer would put it 1" higher up front. or a 4" for 2" higher front ride height.

so here are some ?s I have before I decide what to buy.

1) what's all needed for a 3" spacer lift up front? same ? for a 4" lift.

2) at what lift is a track bar drop or adjustable rod needed?

3) at what lift does it need longer control arms?

4)how much lift before front driveshaft problems? (CV front end/double u-joint rear on shaft)

pros and cons on spacer lifts VS spring lifts?

TIA

nobody has a jeep GC 5.9 4x4 with a lift?

Run springs. They aren't that expensive, and let you still have suspension travel. You are going to have issues with axle alignment even at at 2". You can use a relocation bracket at the rear and redrill the front, or use an adjustable track bar up front. I would never run a 3" spacer. Your stock arms will be okay if you don't wheel it hard.

Keep it level, there is no reason to raise the front higher than the rear.

X2. don't go higher than 2". ronnie

We lift them all the time. The Grand Cherokee can be a tricky one dealing with vibrations. My choice would be a BDS 2 inch spring kit and with the added V-8 weight a front 3/4 inch spacer. BDS has a great ride.

http://bds-suspension.com/kit-customizer?kid=445H

IIRC, weren't the 5.9L Limited an AWD setup, not a 4x4? Would that change his options on a lift?

Negative, Ghostrider.

NP249 t-case, with low range ( which is what differentiates between AWD and 4WD) Ut is a full time case, but that won't matter with that small of a lift.

good info, thanks.

I got a better look at the tag with my spy glasses and indeed it is a 249J

I drained fluid and got about 3/4 qrt out of it, very dirty and black looking. the rear output shows signs of it leaking so that seal is next on the list.

I only got 1.7 qrts back in it.

seems as big as the range box/xfer chain case is it would hold more than 2 qrts of fluid.

maybe I am just used to a dodge RC 727/203

Does it seem to bind up at all slow speed turns at near or full steering lock?

The viscous couplings in those are known to go bad, and from what you describe of the fluid, yours may be hurt.

the front shaft is MIA when I got it. it has the cv on the axle end. I have never worked with/seen one this style.

I have not been able to find one either. I got a part# from the dealer from the VIN# and no longer available.

right now with the front shaft out it works pretty smooth full lock turns. I do feel the LS diff working and seems to be in good shape.

turning the front yoke by hand it does not seem to have much play in the chain.

both engine & trans mount are shot, I was told the shaft was removed to keep the engine/trans from moving around under power. with rear shaft only it takes a lot of throttle from a stop to get it to move/feel/hear it so I take it easy.

mount get replaced next week and will have a nice muff replace the dinky junk replacement that is on it.

with the mounts bottomed out it has pulled the xfer shifter out of the plastic bushing and does not want to shift to low. I did get it in lo long enough to try it a little. this should be good when mounts are replaced.

been busy with it replacing the neglect of service. so far I have replaced

BATT.
ps pump
ps pump pully
front wheel bearings x2
front cv axles x2
front brake rotors & pads x2
rear brake pads x2
tensioner pully
idler pully
valve cover gaskets
serp belt
left headlight bulb
tag light bulb x2

all stock pieces except for the 2 idler pullys. 18 yrs for stock VC is almost unheard of now days.

working on

rad flush ( cant find drain plug for rad? )
under hood light
fog lights ( can hear relay clicking ? )
horn
rear wiper motor

now if I can only find a correct drive shaft for it. I have a front shaft and a front pinion yoke but don't want to convert it with a crush sleeve on the pinion..last resort maybe.

I think I would just swap a NP242 into it if you are planning on doing any wheeling. That way you would have 2wd and low lock, as well.

with the 242 how do you get by with the full time front axle turning the xfer yoke?

I have a 231 on a 5 speed. I am told depending on shaft length it would work same as the 242.

I found a 249J in a local JY for 600$. I would need to further test mine before rolling the dice on another used one.

I see on ebay they have a new viscous coupling unit for 400-600 so a used complete working case should be a fair deal.

what else is needed to bolt in a 242 case?

how hard to rebuild a 249 case replacing the coupling?