I just installed expensive(to me at least) ceramic coated headers on my '69 Super Bee with 383. The #6 plug wire boot is super close to the header tube, burns in a small amount of time and shorts out. I've used an insulated sleeve and it eventually allows the boot to burn away too. I don't want to bend and beat on the headers and mess up the coating. I'm using MSD high heat wires/boots. Any suggestions...?

a good quality sleeve will help out with this. i have the same problem and most of us do. really the only way 100% is to route the wires factory style instead of 'up and over'. using a bendable plug connector will help to. the other option is to invest in the very spendy performance wires and boots from Firecore or various other manufacturers.

Could you swap to a 90 degree end?
Doug

A picture of the issue might help solve it.

Been running 'Mag-na-Cor' wires(with 'adjustable' boots)cozied-up to Hooker headers for many years...

No 'sleeves'...


No issues...

way pricey for most of us

Have no idea what they list for now...


Back when I bought 'em, they weren't bad at all...


(Of course, back then, a whole bunch fer these cars weren't bad...

Unlike today...


When you durn near got to win the lotto to re-do yer Hemi RR...)

On my "B" engine with 1 7/8 TTI headers I started with a set of Taylor wires. They fit great on the engine stand with headers installed but not so much in the car. With obstacles like power steering I had to switch them around and they burnt pretty fast.

A set of MSD "adjustable boot" wires worked much better. Basically you bend the boot as needed for each hole. No burnt wires after that including a long road trip and road track time.

What brand headers are they ? I know with the Firecore wires I use they have never even started to look burnt and some of mine are a little close. Ron

I've ran Taylor's through extensive abuse both racing and street driving. Never...ever burned them...Is it possible its bad lean...maybe early or late on timing and generating excessive heat?

at one time, wasn't there an out fit that offered ceramic plug ends that you could install on your wires to cure the problem described ? if i remember correctly, they were white in color, and came in straight and 90* versions.

I agree with skicker.Taylors on my 440 with 2 inch TTIs never burnt.Mine were on at least 15 years and still looked good.My kid ran them on the 413 with 2 1/8 headers.His were on 4 years at least.He did run covers on 8.Just replaced my taylors as the old ones looked tacky.The Spiro pros are some of the best Ive ever run.Oh yeah run them on all the SBs also with headers.Ran them on my 57 chrysler also.Rocky

Jacobs?

Raja used to make ends.They would last forever.I had a set.Trouble was where they went on the plug was open.Get rain etc and misfire.Rocky

Yup. Jacobs electronics. I had a set on a '70 chevelle. Loved them. The boot could lay right on the header tube, with no problem. The boots were a little bulky, so you had to run a shorty plug.
I had their complete pro street ignition system.

http://www.raceindustry.com/part-showcase/jacobs-electronics/3725-ceramic-boot-spark-plug-wires.html

They make, or did make 90* boots, that's what I had.

I'm not sure a 90 degree boot will help with the plug being next to the header tube.

I didn't think about using a shorty plug. Whats a good plug part # for that?

Here's my combo:
383 bored .060
Keith Black 10:1
Mopar 509
Edelbrock Torker
ThermoQuad 910cfm
Mopar Chrome Box
37 degrees total

I think I've got a autolite 23 on #6

someone at one time recommended a lawnmower plug that was a good heat range for this type of application. any one remember the plug number ?

Weren't the Champion J plugs the shorty's? Maybe a J8 or something depending on how hot you want...

CJ's were the short lawnmower / weedeater plugs with gasketed seats. DJ's were the same shorter height but with tapered seats.

I ran some sort of ceramic type boot back in the 70's, don't remember the name but they never burned like the silicone race boots did. The ones I had actually were made to swivel from straight to 90 or anywhere in between. Don't know what happened to them.

Accel 9000 series wires have the ceramic end-angled or straight- and are available singly if you only need one. I switched to a full set of these after burning MSD's several times on my 383 with shorty headers.
https://jet.com/product/detail/211da7e11...0AIgRoCgsTw_wcB

[img]https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSLEiby6ltDDVYzdqvZgoO0KXHM5UGcvE8pEqj5F_zEeedupOTf[/img]

As said the short plug will fix this problem, I had the same thing going on with #1 on my motor with custom pipes, after doing shields, boots ect I put a full set of plugs in that were same but 1/2" shorter.