If you would have got the ignitor 11 and matching coil you can by pass the ballast and just hook red wire to + side of coil and the other wire to the - side of the coil.

I can do that anyway. I need to know how to wire the setup while including the ballast resistor so everything looks correct too. The ballast has a single blue wire on the passenger side or upside and a blue and brown wire on the lower post or toward the drivers side. The assembly manual says the single blue wire is ignition 1 the brown and blue wire is ignition 2. The Pertronix directions say to wire it to the ignition switch side of the resistor. Which post is it? I've attached the instructions.

EDIT! keeping stock coil & stock ballast resistor. With them wired up as OE. P black wire to coil neg primary terminal. P red wire to ballast blue wire (ign1 run) end of ballast resistor. Do NOT connect (T) the P red wire to the coil positive primary terminal as in the P illustration. Done!

FYI...be sure to re-time the ignition as the Pertronix install can rephase the system anywhere from 5 degrees ATDC to 15 degrees BTDC, so depending on where your current timing is, your engine might not start because the timing is too far off





Get rid of the ballast, it's a weak link in the system, the red wire from the HallCell goes to the positive side of the coil, the black lead from the HallCell goes to the negative side of the coil, the blue/dark blue ignition lead from your bulkhead connector goes to the positive side of the coil, gut out the ballast resistor and solder in an insulated 10 gauge piece of wire in the back cavity of the resistor, now just attach the resistor leads as they were originally on the ballast, you now have the look of having the ballast, but without the issues of a ballast, plus the system is now running a true 12 volts, be sure to gap the HallCell with the plastic gauge supplied, don't use any metal feeler gauges, copper terminal cap only, no solid core wires, don't remove the green tape on the HallCell magnet, don't leave the key in the run position for more than 30 seconds without the engine running, if you need to do so, disconnect the RED lead from the positive side of the coil...you are using the correct Pertronix coil?...right


Mike

Are these ok and not solid core?

This 1384 ignitor kit didn't come with anything to set the gap between the module and the magnet and it looks like it's not supposed to. So, is there a way to make sure it's in the right place?

The module has a hole in the center of 2 other holes that allows for a screw in the same place as the one for the condenser. It has two other holes, one on each side of the one for the screw, that fit over a couple of small posts that were locators for the condenser I assume. I haven't tried to start it yet, but it looks to me like a fairly large gap between the module and the magnet so I want to be sure if it doesn't crank whether it's the position of the module or the timing being way off.

The Ignitor I and II HallCell modules/magnets have an adjustable air gap, only the Ignitor III adjusts the Dwell (gap) electronically, the gap is .030, find anything other than metal (plastic, paper,etc,etc)that is non conductive or magnetic to gap the Dwell angle

This kit doesn't really have any adjustment potential that I see unless I start machining things. It has two small round holes that just fit over the small posts used to help locate the condenser and a round hole for the screw. The holes aren't slotted to allow for movement. I've seen the 0.03 gap listed in multiple places for different kits, but for this one it's like it is made to only go in as is. Maybe that's why it didn't come with the plastic gaping tool included with other kits?

Is this kit for the Prestolite dual point dist?, if it is, then there is no adjustment feature for the HallCell, I just hope you indexed the magnet pick up ring properly before seating it fully on the dist lobe (usually an issue with this kit), the only play there should be with the magnet pick up ring is what end play the actual shaft of the dist has, if the magnet can rock/shift about on the base dist lobe, then it's either damaged or not installed properly, otherwise your good to go, be sure to check/re-time the ignition

Mike