The A-body cages ive been exposed to seem to have been bent to fit a Demon/Duster/Dart Sport but also "work" in Darts and Barracudas.

Cab; I'm still on the fence using chrome moly. My Snap-On mig welder does DC Tig, which I know I can use for steel, but I haven't figured out how to make it work yet. Probably because I never tig welded before. Can't figure out how to scratch start, keep glowing the electrodes when it sticks to the metal. I can arc weld, I can mig weld. Hopefully, I'm not too old to learn to tig weld.
Talking about safety, and knowing that a full tube setup changes how the car reacts, I do feel more comfortable using 2x3 frame rails, though. Is it cool to weld a c/m cage to a m/s frame setup?

You can weld M/S to moly.. BUT the first point that
is attached has to be tigged.. then from that point
on can be migged

What kind of tungsten are you using? 2% thoriated is my favorite for all metals, 100% argon, sharpen your tungsten and 150ish on amps for .120" thickness.

I figured any part that is attaching c/m would need tig. Would be nice to do the whole car tig, if I can figure this crap out. The only mod I need is an Argon bottle. I've been using my Mix bottle just for practice on scrap tubing. I don't know how many more youtube videos I can watch. It seems like a monkey can do this.

I think that's right on the tungsten. I have to check. It's been a while. I think those are the red tip ones?

Yes sir.

I really love welding, too. Maybe, due to the immediate satisfaction of a job well done. An engine, trans, rear end build takes time from beginning to end, but a cage is in your face "Look what I just did!" type of accomplishment. I have Sat/Sun off for the month of January. Next weekend, I'll hit up my welding supplier for a bottle of Argon, some more tungsten tips, and keep at it.

I use the one Amp per one thousandths rule. .082 would be 82 amps.

Well, my machine is a 140 amp unit, so I have that covered, weather c/m or m/s.

I remember being so pi$$ed off I wanted to quit my job trying to teach myself to tig weld. I was literally talking out loud to myself....why am I doing this if you can't even weld? lol It takes seat time and after long it will be like second nature. I agree with fastmop, I do autocad and waterjet cutting all day so I deal with measurements in thousands, so 1/8" thick is .125", so set my amps at 125-130 so I don't blow a hole thru my material. Just easier for me that way. I read your post about losing a loved one....that's one reason I made myself learn fab/welding. If someone else can do this, so can I. My best buddy that died from cancer and battle buddies that never came home Iraq would be calling me a little b!tch for giving up so easy...

Cab, I had my 64 Savoys roof off in three hours, fingering out how to do it as I went along.
Just the skin.

You mean MS from that point on, just to be accurate. Correct?

The frame rails are m/s. Where the cage c/m attaches to the frame, must be tigged. All cage joints must be tigged. Frame connections to body, and any m/s crossmembers can be migged.

I can relate to the lack of welding skills, I've been blessed most of my life by having excellent welders and fabricators around thet would do any welding or fab work I needed on any of my car projects. I have several 220 buzz boxes, a 110 Craftsmen Mig welder and a Miller 180 or 185 Synchrowave combination tig and AC welder. I took several welding classes at the local J.C. industrial arts program and my welding on all types still looks like I [censored] it together out of my nose I don't plan on welding a cage or chassis together but it is nice to be able to weld thin metal together when needed instead of loading that project up and hauling it to a good welder I'll probally retake the Tig 1 welding class over again as I didn't get to finsh it the first time due to taking two welding classes in the same semester

Yep..if you have moly and want to attach mild to it
that first joint must be tigged.. then the rest of
the mild can be migged... now if you are going mild
to moly then the whole thing needs to be tigged(as
in main rails are mild and you want to attach moly
then every point needs to be tigged).... on the welder
I run the machine on the high side being I use a foot
controller... some are saying 1 amp per .001, I leave
it about 125 or so on .083 moly... that way I can control
the output instead of being wide open on the pedal... I
use 3/32 tungsten with the red tip... just about 100% of
the time I use 1/16" steel rod.. I have used SS rod on moly
but its not necessary

I kinda lucked out, bought a used Miller 180 Syncrowave from a guy who was a welding instructor, so he started me out on steel first, gave me homework and seat time. He was out the other nite and started me out on aluminum. I was like you and couldn't strike an arc to save my a$$, he showed me some tricks and then I actually liked doing it and look forward to practice. Might be worth your time to find some one to get you started, sure worked for me.

Airco as a new tungsten rod out now, is not radioactive, seems to weld better all around, last quite well and don't have to grind as much. When I get home I'll update the name.

cudaman1969: thanks for the info and any updates you can give me. I'll look into it with my local Airgas supplier. They were closed today, so no go on the Argon. Monday will be here soon enough.

If you haven't used argon you'll be pleasantly supprized on what a difference it makes. I clean well then heat with a butane torch and watch the moisture come out of the tube, hard to believe till you see it, dry tube makes a good weld. Leave a small hole for the air inside also.