Hot Rodding at its best. I am glad you have the talent and tools to deal with the issues.

Good Luck!
Bill

Al, I heard there is a Dyno in Idaho falls that can do a hemi...Fastlane did not have the stuff...Tim

Is that 11,800 or 12,500 RPM

Welcome to engine building, we always spent a lot of time making aftermarket parts fit correctly, just seems thats the way it is. 70MM cam in a production syle block would be impossible, maybe with a clam-shell style. On your way to DC drop it off we can Dyno it with you if you would like.

QMP or Eric Jones should be able to Dyno those for you.





Ray

Pete appreciate the offer. We have a SB that will be going together here soon to and at this point may wait to do both of them at once. It should be ready in March. But it is a brand X deal Yeah on the cam Bullet said the same thing, but if it were able to be a bigger core would be a non issue.

QMP is used by a lot of guys in SoCal and the region for sure. Did not realize Eric had a dyno, thought he was using QMP as well?? The dyno thing will get hashed out for sure. We have asuperflow here in Vegas too that we may be able to get access too.

Not really trying to bash anyone here. Just pointing out some of the issues we have had. There have been many along the way. But living in two places makes getting anything done a hassle, especially with a limited amount of time to work on stuff. To be honest the biggest hurdle has been pushrod clearancing, that has taken more time than any one thing, but again there have been many. Really were hoping to get it done and ready this trip but not gonna happen. As couple more little issues to address as well as getting the correct parts for the front drive. Oh well maybe when I come back in February it will be ready to go hopefully. Well after the racing obligations hopefully there will be some time.

Unless that hole is at a right angle to the milled surface, milling material off will move the hole. I've never played with that block but I did measure an OE block and the hole is at about a 10-degree angle. Using that angle, milling off a 1/4" will move the hole about .044" in the direction that caused your problem. Milling off 1/2" will move the hole about 0.088".

Only other thing I will say about this block is it came from a VERY well known Mopar engine builder. Not associated with the one who posted on here BTW.

im quite sure if you called indy they would apologize profusely and do whatever it would take to make you happy.we all know their customer service is perfection and ranks right up there with the best in the business.they would consult their signed copy of the third reich customer service manual and fix all the problems quickly and efficiently......

You are a very patient man Al.

QMP..... home of the only running iron Ritter block that I know of!

Voted "Best Customer Service" in their industry!

al, I think the world block is your best choice next to a billet block. As you know talking to tom, my new KB has a ton of issues,getting a new block out of them, or a refund is totally out of the question "financially they can't do it"

For those who are not aware this is a World block. It is the fourth one I have had and the first with issues. Like I said before I think it was a blem from the factory and likely not supposed to be sold. I have had GM blocks as well that had major issues and were not to be sold. In fact the one in the Pink car is one of those with issues as well. Been there since 2000 with zero issues after we fixed it.

BTW and FWIW here is a sneak peak of PART of the car Still a lot to do and a long way to go here too. But getting closer and time is running out.

Next upgrade is 9/16 studs and 1/2 cross bolts to stop the cap walk or should I say reduce the cap walk.
World is a poor choice IMO

IMO World is a FAR superior choice to the other readily available block out there. Been there done that..

What features are different between world, indy, kb? I never had any of them, Just wondering the differences.

Are the World aluminum blocks still available?