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still have to run a hotwire
#1954051
11/19/15 12:28 AM
11/19/15 12:28 AM
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 460 las vegas,nv
mopar muscle7271
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 460
las vegas,nv
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i have a 72 duster as well with a 383 in it with points,beside the dart i have.in order for it to start i have to run a hotwire from the postive side of the coil to postive side of battery.i have replaced the ignition switch and starter rely.I still have to run a hot wire in order to shut it on/off. any ideas what it could be still?
Last edited by mopar muscle7271; 11/19/15 12:29 AM.
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Re: still have to run a hotwire
[Re: Jim_Lusk]
#1954075
11/19/15 01:15 AM
11/19/15 01:15 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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it will crank OK but will not start until you jump directly from batt to coil? I would check the cranking voltage at the coil positive primary terminal with and without the jumper (& post what you get). do minimal cranking time for each check so the battery possibly getting run down a bit dont skew the readings. I would clean every terminal/connection from the battery in thru the bulkhead/to/thru ammeter/to ign sw (its connector) and the brown wire ign2 (cranking) circuit from the "ign2" ign sw terminal back out thru bulkhead & on to the coil positive primary to elim the voltage drop
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: still have to run a hotwire
[Re: mopar muscle7271]
#1954293
11/19/15 02:35 PM
11/19/15 02:35 PM
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,272 Northern Calyfornua
Sxrxrnr
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,272
Northern Calyfornua
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Check the female holes in the ignition switch to dash wiring connector. Suspect that you will find one or more has enlarged so that the male's from the ignition switch are wallering about in the females on the dash harness side and not making solid contact. .
With a very small bladed(like watch builder or eyeglasses size) screwdriver you can squeeze them a bit tighter, ensuring a tight fit. .
You should check and tighten all 5 of the larger gauge ones, blue, black, red, yellow and brown.
If not the problem this time, likely could be in the future. This is a miserable example of a Molex connector, as each time you separate it and reattach it, these holes will enlarge.
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Re: still have to run a hotwire
[Re: Sxrxrnr]
#1954897
11/20/15 03:22 PM
11/20/15 03:22 PM
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 460 las vegas,nv
mopar muscle7271
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 460
las vegas,nv
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its a 2prong resistor, and i will look and see if they are and check wires.ill check the voltage as well,the coil is brand new as well.
Last edited by mopar muscle7271; 11/20/15 03:26 PM.
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Re: still have to run a hotwire
[Re: mopar muscle7271]
#1955821
11/22/15 02:34 PM
11/22/15 02:34 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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check the cranking voltage at the coil positive primary terminal then check it (same way) at the downstream (brown wire) end of the ballast then stick a thin metal pin into the bulkhead & check that ign 2 circuit wire. with a jumper connect the neg lead of your VOM to the batt neg post & the red VOM lead on the (3) checks above. make each check brief/fast so as to not deplete the batt (wont hurt the batt but can skew the readings)
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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