OK gentlemen, really need your help. Here's what's going on.

I have a 1969 GTX, 440, Hemi 4-speed, Dana 60 w/4.10''s, Took my dad for a ride around town, did a couple of rolling burn-outs. 3rd one I revved it to about 3000, dumped the clutch, it started to go good as usual, got mostly through 1st and heard a loud sound like a "PIIINNGGG!" kind of like to pieces of metal hitting. The engine then barely ran, idling very low (maybe 600 rpm's), giving it gas just seemed to make it worse, rolled another 50 yards or so and saw the oil pressure dropping. i turned off the engine at zero pounds of il pressure and pulled over.

Got the car home and drained the oil and pulled the filter. Oil looked fine though slight smell of gasoline. Cut open oil filter and saw no signs of metal failure,

Pulled distributor and oil pump drive shaft and both looked good. Cam gear where it meets oil pump drive shaft looked fine.

Removed oil pump and tore it apart. Some scoring on inside of pump and metal knick spots. But nothing obvious.

Car has electric fuel pump and has good fuel pressure.

Ordered new Mopar HV oil pump and hardened shaft to be on safe side. Thinking to put on new pump, add my 20/50 weight oil, prime the pump, installed new drive pump shaft and distributor and try and turn over the motor.

Any other thoughts???

Please help!

Thanks!

Why don't you reinstall the old pump and prime the system with a drill to see if you get oil pressure. You also might want to pull the valve covers to see if you bent a pushrod and unseated a lifter.

Already ordered a new pump and to be honest whenI took the old pump all apart didn't pay attention to get it back together right. Pause it's been on the engine since 1994, so feel safe with putting on a new one.

If I pull the valve covers off, would it be obvious identifying a bent push rod? I have original max wedge adjustable rockers as an FYI and crane hi-intensity lifters with a 302 duration crane cam. Engine was built back in 1992 and has about 40,000 miles on it. Forged crank and forged TRW flat top Pistons, stock rods that were shot peened and magnafluxed with arp rod bolts.

As said above. Prime the pump,with a drill,& check oil,pressure, a lifter could have come out. then that valve is closed all the time, wil run like you describe.

If I prime the pump and the lifter came out as describe with the oil pressure not rise or be low?

P/V collision. do a compression test & holler back

If you shut if off really fast no metal would reach the oil filter yet , as the others mentioned , bent push rod and or broken rocker arm and if you prime the oil pump and it does not have any resistance (make sure your spinning the pump in the right direction) you might have sheared the oil pump drive shaft , good luck.

With a drill do I spin clockwise or counterc clockwise to prime the pump?

The oil pump drive shaft was in good shape.

CCW

With your new pump installed, prime the pump with the drill motor in reverse, use the proper hex priming rod counter clock wise. Try priming the engine, if you get little or no oil pressure then you pull off the valve covers , check to see if any rockers are broken, check to see if all the push rods are seated properly. It sounds to me that a push rod dropped of and a lifter popped out of the bore causing the loss of oil pressure. Hopefully that is all.

Seriously there are there isn't even a hand full of parts, the only thing you could put together backwards is the pressure relief valve and it's spring, the other 3 parts only go one place.

when you take apart your new pump to clean/check clearances if the circular outer rotor piece has a stamped mark on one of the flat surfaces I would install it back in the same way (on top or on the bottom). Might be nothing but never hurts to be proactive (helps keeps Mr Murphy away).

pull the valve covers and turn the engine over slowly and watch the rockers. Make sure they all travel the same. If you find one (or more) that look odd pull that rocker shaft and look at the tops of all the valves. If they don't look even you have a problem. Do you know what RPM you were at when it went south?

if you bent a pushrod or jumped a lifter,the associated rocker will be loose

Sounds like the dist.drive broke & the ign.timing jumped & the oil psi. dropped,the eng.would not run like your describing with 1 rocker/cyl.down.

I'd pull the plugs (makes for easier turning) & put a 1&1/4 socket/short extension/breaker bar on the crank bolt & turn it CW. You'll know something in 2 minutes

Sounds like the dist.drive broke & the ign.timing jumped & the oil psi. dropped,the eng.would not run like your describing with 1 rocker/cyl.down.

Read the original post, the oil pump drive is not broken. How many broken distributor drives have you seen on a BB Mopar?

I don't think the oil pump is your issue, just

I would have started at the valve covers, then the intake. I'm betting you have bent more then one push rod. Hopefully it wasn't the rockers, valves, or the cam. Gene