Truck is a 77 W200 with a 90s Dana 44 front axle. I picked up a 70s Kingpin Dana 60 front axle last weekend. I have 8" suspension lift so it was previously suggested for me to cut the axle ends off, rotate the housing to get the correct pinion angle, and weld them back on. I may buy a jig and do it myself or I may look for a shop locally to do it; I haven't decided.

I'm assuming I need to use shims, at least on the passenger side, as I don't see how to rotate the housing without using shims since the passenger side leaf spring mount is part of the center section. For those of you that have already done this, how did you figure out how thick or what angle of shims to put in the front to rotate the housing to get the proper angle? I know how to set up a driveline and what angle it needs to be from setting pinion angles on rear axles in cars and reading on pirate 4X4 what the angle needs to be. Are shims with that much of an angle even available? I just don't want to buy the wrong angle shims.

Also, I'm assuming the axle I bought is currently a full time front axle as there are no lockouts on it. Can I just add manual lockouts to it?

Last question first, yes locking hubs bolt on. I got Milemarkers from summit.

You will need a set of shims to get the pinion pointed at the t case. And then you need to cut the welds holding the knuckles on and rotate them for correct caster.

Search for " cut and turn" Binderplanet.com has some good write-ups.

ruderunner,

Thank you for the reply. I did a search on that site and came up with many threads in relation to that topic. Looks like I've got some reading to do.

I had figured on setting the pinion angle, cutting the housing, and just rotating the ends. However, from what I read on one of the threads, it's better to cut the welds at the housing ends and then rotate the housing ends.

Thanks.

Your hub look like this with out the lock part?

Just wondering since you say it is a 70s axle. I installed this `85 king pin Dana last year in my `71 Powerwagon.

http://s827.photobucket.com/user/pismopo...rt=3&page=1

Iits harder to get all the weld out that hold the tubes to the center section. And you still need to shim the center for pinion angle. Most will grind out the welds that hold the knuckles to the tubes. Then the knuckles can be beat into position with a hammer and rewelded.
I hope you're not thinking of actually cutting the tubes. Major problems with strength and alignment will result.

Yep that's a 75-90 kingpin axle with external lockouts. The 91-93 trucks had different lockouts.

Sorry I did write `95 and meant `85

all fixed thanks runner

I've attached a pic of what it looks like.

I was until I read the posts on the site you directed me to.

Nice !! You got the good one

Another option for your pinion angle... have a driveshaft built with 1350 CVs on both ends. I had this done for my 79 Macho with full time four wheel drive. I only have a few thousand miles on it, but seems to be holding up fine. Just a way of not having to worry about cutting,welding,caster angles, etc.

Tom Woods custom drivelines will answer some of your questions, I have run his shafts for years. Tim

I never considered that. Does it require a pinion yoke change?

Mine did. It was a D44 front and so I needed a 1350 yoke. Not sure on early D60s, but you may have a 1350 yoke on your D60 already. Safe bet is to measure it up.

Thanks for the info.

Those look like selectro hubs. How do you like them?

I liked mine, easy to use in mud a snow, especially with gloves.
Keep the mounting bolts tight or better yet go with studs and nuts.

Like ruderunner said "easy to use" when your hands are all sloppy muddy and cold. Always work for me, even the original 1/2 ton set off this truck I put on wifes Ramcharger and still going strong. I keep a set of those full time gears in tool box just in case I am out and I DID break one.

Good idea with the studs, I might do that. Toyota comes stock that way with cone washers.

Yeah the only problem I ever had with the old selectros was I blew one apart when the bolts came loose.