Is this a street car or drag car?
If drag only, you can use a stock water pump setup and just use the cheap Moroso water pump drive kit to turn the factory water pump.

If street driven, take your water pump housing and have the back of it (the block mounting surface) milled down the thickness of your motorplate. Or you can use a crank pulley spacer (the thickness of the plate) to push the pulley out so it lines up w/ the water pump pulley.
There are a lot of different factory pulleys out there with different offsets.

I'm no help on the factory alternator...I went w/ a low mount GM alternator setup.

Just mill the thickness of the motor plate off the block side of the waterpump housing ... done.

.....

I just had the motor rebuilt. Its complete. Hasn't even been fired.

I am not sure where I would even go to have this done.

Just pull the water pump housing off the motor and take it to a machine shop. They can mill the back side of it to compensate for the thickness of the plate.

Make sure you know what plate you're gonna use beforehand. The AR engineering plates are .375" thick, The normal Comp Eng. plates are only .250" thick.

Use the AR-Engineering plate, it's nice. I use it along with a stock type water pump housing, I haven't had it milled because my pulleys line up good. But I only have 2.75 inches between the water pump snout and my radiator, so I use a cheap flex fan along with a shroud.
I use a Toyota Denso alternator and will never go back to a mopar setup, it's small, mounted low, and charges at 14 volts at all times, best setup I've ever owned. I'm sure alot of guys have the mopar setups ironed out but I always had problems with them.

It doesn't have to be a GM alternator, although I don't see why that's an issue. It just needs to be an internally regulated one wire alternator, which as stated, can come from many sources. They are small, light, easy to mount and flat work better

You can use a stock water pump if you use a pulley spacer. Or machine down the water pump housing to use a stock pulley arrangement. Most people use an electric water pump of some sort when running a motor plate.

There is no simple way to use a stock Mopar alternator with a motor plate. The Mopar alternator is big, heavy and obsolete so most people building race cars get rid of them and use a modern alternator.

DODGE OR DIE BABY! LOL

DODGE OR DIE BABY! LOL [/quote]

Ya, I thought the same thing at the beginning until I realized that the mopar alternator doesn't charge on the idle, and on a race car there's a lot of idleing. Do yourself a favor and buy a East Coast 1 wire alternator.

As long as it does not resemble a GM alternator I would entertain it.

I used a Denso alternator. Drilled a hole for the top bolt of the alt on the bottom of the motor plate and fabbed up my own bracket for the bottom hole. I just made spacers to line it up with... Simple, easy and cheap!!

That's what I do, mill the rear of the housing .400" when using a 3/8" motor plate (extra .025" for the second gasket).

What exactly does a GM alternator LOOK like? They are made by Delco-Remy, who also sells alternators to GM, Ford, Chrysler and about every other manufacturer, same as Denso and others. You do realize that likely the steering gearbox and pump on your later model Chrysler product is made by Saginaw.........a GM owned company. Oh noooooooooo............LOL!!!!

I can't add much to the discussion other than saying a GM alternator(CS130) was one of the best things I have ever done to my car.

Correct..."late model Chrysler product". Not on my Mopar muscle car!!!

I don't want anything even GM related even near my car lol.

I bought a set of used CPPA engine mounts today from a member that are believed to be made for my headers.

Hopefully this will solve the problem!

I will post pictures this weekend.

Again thanks guys for the help!

That "GM product" alternator would be the best thing you could do to your mopar for a charging system.