Wondering if it can be done safely? Please dont tell me to buy CAP lowers because they are heavier than stock

I'd leave 'em alone.
They need all the rigidity that they can receive.

Would be stella though if some one stamped them out of Titanium.

FMJ, what did you do to the strut rods?

I had aluminum ones made for my 65 Bel II. but like everything else for this car nothing is finished completely...
I'm sure FMJ has connections...

The 3-dimension construction is where the stiffness comes from. IMHO some of the connecting material can be drilled or cut away without serious loss of strength.
As the weight gets closer to the ball joint more of it is unsprung and more valuable to lighten.

When they make plates to stiffen them, it tells me they are good enough for production vehicles but not much more. Are you sure you want to go into uncharted territory and take a chance on winding up weaker than your needs?
It wouldn't be very budget friendly but here is another idea. My plan would be to make replacements out of Moly tube, and some moly plate for the shock mount and outer end. Then all that is needed is somebody that can figure out what will work for equal or greater strength.
If you are still going to run torsion bars, then you are still stuck with a lot of the weight on the inner end anyway, so it wouldn't be on my priority list unless I need to lower the front shock mount for a coilover conversion.

Aluminum struts with handmade aluminum cone washers and Titanium nuts. A little pricey on the titanium nuts, but safer than aluminum.
I have another idea that would only take about 1/2 pound off without compromising the strength, but have not done it yet because of time.
I'll explain it later. I have to run.

I made up some moly tube arms for a different application
and it worked UNTIL they were road racing and went off the
course... it folded up... I wouldnt lighten them being that
you use it on DW... you never know what the roads will be like
I would look elsewhere to drop some pounds

I have 73 spindles that look extremely heavy compared to brand x also

FMJ anyone make the aluminum strut rods any more?

I think I agree, but not sure what you are describing as " connecting material". I think you mean like a typical I beam connecting rod maybe or driveshaft, the material in the center does not add greatly to the strength in bending loads, and is the first place to start lightening with little downside. IMO, a stock LCA is very robust, and never by members here need the monkey see monkey do stiffening plates, and as OP is thinking, lightening is an option, for a non road race car.

For my old chassis I made up the lower arms and the
strut rods.. in both alum and moly.. the moly ended
up being lighter.. the alum rod was solid with it threaded
for heim joints.. the moly was tubing with weld in thread
adapters and heims.. they both worked fine but I ended up
using the moly rods... they were on there for a few years
until I built the new chassis.. that chassis was moly with
struts and a 4-link.... the old chassis was A-arm uppers
and standard style lower but home made and a ladder bar..
that whole front end was home made.. mini van alum hubs and
my own disc brake set up... it worked fine for the 135 mph I
was running at that time

Yes, I have the QA-1`s and not only are they lighter but heims make em transfer quicker which some cars like and some don`t but mine did............

Thumper, was looking at the qa1 rods but they claim a 6 lb weight reduction which has to be [censored] since my one strut rod only weighs slightly over 2 lbs. Then the $200 price tag is too much for me

I forgets the company, but I believe Mancini still carries them (Aluminum Struts)and also Just suspension or PST.
The stock struts alone weighed 6-1/4 pounds for the pair where as the aluminum struts weighed only 3 Lbs for the pair.

I've had a thought about lightening the lower control arms (but not by much at all) for a year or so now by making a new aluminum plate for the bottoming out rubber. This plate holds the bottoming out rubber snubber but also probably acts as a bridge brace for the top of the arm.
IIRC, the old plates spot welds could be drilled out and a new aluminum type installed with either strong rivets or better yet, small strong bolts and nuts and then reinstall the bottoming out rubber. Probably only would shave 1/4 pound between the both plates though.

Titanium torsion bar adjustment bolt and threaded bar? Probably not. Too much weight depends on those two pieces.

Wishful thinking? Titanium stamped lower arms. Yeah!

I also went with a titanium lower shock mount bolt and nut, but again, not much shaved unless you are looking at ounces like I am now.
There are some goodies coming down the belt soon.

So how many dollars per pound are you at now... TI parts
arent cheap

Lost count, though I do have most receipts and yes, titanium can be pricey.
If done in small increments like I do, it doesn't ruffle your wallet knowing that you're that much closer to a goal.
At most, aluminum fasteners have replaced non-crucial holdings. Titanium goes where the strength is needed and pure Factory stock steel stays where it's really crucial.
Sixpackgut, if you haven't already checked, there's an incredible amount of info on Thumperdart's "Real world weight loss program" thread further on this board.
I think that there are many more big and small places on other parts of the front end that can shed pounds more diligently and safely.

Agreed, it was more like maybe 3-4 lbs. iirc but didn`t care cos the car is looser in the ft. and launches harder plus stock arms bind a lot being rigidly mounted instead of heims.

I am in the process of changing my KOS Demon over to tubular LCA so I can lose the torsion bars and have more header room. These are HDK parts and my car is one of the gunnie pigs on this new design. They are a lot lighter than stock and will fit the stock K frame, plus being real pieces of art and I think made of 4130 CM but not positive.

In my case I am effecting a repair to wallered out holes in the front of the K frame where the pivot pin goes through, by having Denny enlarge the front of the LCA pivot pins that they supply, so my K frame hole is tight again after I drill it out to 3/4". I will also probably weld a doubler there so it stays tight. That can be done with the k-frame in the car and the engine on it. The car already has tubular uppers. HDK has a upper shock mount that goes inside the stock shock tower. Hopefully my existing tubular UCAs will clear the shock coils with his shock geometry.

These pivot on urethane bushings. They could pivot on 1/2" OD, 3/4" ID sealed ball bearings without any trouble I think, but the noise/ride would be harsher. These can use the stock or aftermarket strut rods.

I need to get a camera so I can make a thread about this.