Hi all,

I just purchased some 18x9 +34 Torque Thrust M anthracite wheels for my 1970 Duster with the 11.75" Cordoba brake setup, Hotchkis UCAs and a 68 B-body 8 3/4. I will be running 275-35-18's all the way around.

I went to test fit the wheels on the front, and while the specs list the hub bore to be acceptable for a mopar, they do not fit on to go all the way down to the hub flange due to the register for the center cap.



What are my options for this? It seems like opening up the wheel could work however the area by the center cap on the outside edge might be getting kinda thin at that point. It also seems that the rotor could be turned down as well, but the center cap won't fit anyway. I've considered a DrDiff Cobra brake setup. is that different enough to fit?

Here is the fitment on the rear, you can see it fits fine back there:



Please let me know your thoughts on my options.

I use longer studs and spacers for this exact problem, but I have also taken the rotor off, taken the lug studs out, put it on a lathe, and cut 1/8 inch off the center hub. I have your same rotors and this works great, I can take a better pic if it would help. I also had to switch to these "raised" center caps...

Did you take an 1/8" off the radius or diameter?

It looks like you have potentially the same type of wheel on your Valiant in your signature picture. What size/offset are they? How much spacer did you use? I don't have modified fenders on this one so I'm not sure it will be exactly the same for me.

What's the link for the raised center cap?

Not sure what you mean radius or diameter, see the shiny part on the very tip of the hub in the pic? That's where we lathed it down about an 1/8 inch, just enough so that the hub could fit thru the center cap area if needed. I'm about to do this again, going further in because my new wheels need to sit further in to run a 315 tire. My current setup doesn't quite stick out so far that it goes thru the cap area, I have 18x10 wheels with a +42 offset, running a 7/16 spacer. My front fenders have been pushed out about 3/4 inch. I may have to run without a dust cap on the new wheels to run a center cap. American muscle no longer sells the exact caps in the pic, you may be able to find something similar.

Radius is the distance between the center of a circle and it's outside, diameter is twice the radius, or outside to outside dimension of a circle.

So, did you measure the outside dimensions (diameter) and take off 1/8", or did you measure the radius and take off 1/8" (1/4" off the diameter). I assume you measured the diameter myself.

Alright, just did some rudimentary measurements using my old wheels and tires that are about as pushed to the outside as they can be (225-60/15 on 15x7 with 4.125 backspace). Looks like the max spacer I can use is 10mm thick, which is about what I had seen used with similar wheels on another Duster. The wheels neck down to 2.25 to grab the center cap so there's no way I can turn the hub down to go through that. The dust cap will go through there fine.



These wheels have a chamfer leading from the 2.858" bore to the 2.25 bore so just making that straight would pick up about 0.35" of the 0.49" it would need to sit on the hub. with the 10mm spacer, we'd be good.

At the same time, the center cap still won't fit so I'm wondering if it would just be better to push it all out to 2.858" and use a pull-through cap, even though I'm unsure those will work that well either since there is a chamfer where those would be pinched in.

Oh, and do you have a part number for longer wheel studs? I will for certain need those.

You need about 1/8" overall off the snout of the rotor. So if you set the lathe up starting at 0 you would end at .0625 at the cutter. Also want it about a 3/8" deep towards the wheel mating surface in my experience.

If you use a spacer then usually the center caps with work.

Do your wheels have a chamfer or just a step where it necks down?

It would be more trouble, but I would rather take .0625" off the inner diameter of the necked down portion of the wheel. This neck down is a theft deterrent on front wheels with drums and wheel locks , or what? looks kinda sacrificial anyway.

My wheels have the same chamfer, because of my calipers I use a 3/8" spacer currently.

okay, I ordered some 10mm thick spacers. I guess I can see where you're getting them to fit - the chamfer is 45 degrees, so the same amount of reduction to space gained. So, being that 10mm= 0.3937 for the spacer and its looking like the hub is 1.580 tall. So I need a hub depth of 1.1863+

The depth I am seeing to the start of the chamfer is 0.9" at 2.858" dia and then necks to 2.25". The overall chamfer depth is 0.3, so the total up to the edge of the chamfer is 1.2", which is about what I need. So, I'm having a pretty hard time seeing how turning down the rotor by 1/8" will get the wheel on.

It's looking like I either need to send these back (would really rather not, especially since I'm not sure other options ), or get them opened up to 2.75 all the way through and use some o-ring style center caps, then turn the rotor down slightly at the end as you have suggested. I'm doubting the stock center cap would ever work because the dust cap is sticking out already and I need to go in by 0.3" still.

Here's the final result. I only have a sneek peek of the rims/tires on the car as I need to swap out the front wheel studs for longer ones.

I ended up having the wheels themselves machined. They did the same dimension as as delivered (~2.585) other than where the domed Rocket Racing Wheels center cap goes (~2.75). I got all 4 machined for $100. Center caps were $140. I think it turned out great AND they fit all the way down over the front hubs. Tires are 275-35-18 Continental ExtremeContact DW.

FWIW, Torque Thrust M 17" wheels clear front Mopar hubs completely. I only know this because I have 17s on the front and 18s on the rear, by chance. I tried to stick the 18s up front and noticed it wouldn't go.

Someone reading this thread might be considering 17s, they are bolt-on up front.

Yeah, I really wanted a matching set, and at least on an A-body if you want to run super wides you may have a very hard time getting 17's to clear the outer tie rod end.

Goldduster318, what is your front and rear backspacing in inches?

Do you have any spacers in the front your rear (with your 68-70 B-body rear)?

they're 18x9 6.34 backspacing. I haven't driven the car so I can't say for sure if I'll need to use the 3/8 spacers I have for the front or not. Concern would be the tire rubbing on the frame or the wheel lip hitting the upper ball joint at droop (it's tight).

In the back I have no spacers but I have the MP offset shackles. If you didn't have those it would be tight but I think it would clear the spring by about 1/4". Lots of room to the outside on my car.

These wheels actually don't stick out as much as the 225's on my 15x7 4.125 backspacing do. Those were at basically the outside limit. I got the 6.34 backspacing wheels as I'll probably do the Dr Diff Cobra brakes at some point and those make the track width wider.

That is nice fitment. Good work.

This is what I did. I wasn't about to [censored] up a new set of wheels.