I was getting ready to take the Rampage out and today
the reverse acts like the rear brakes are on... I have
to rev it fairly good to get the tires to move rearward..
it also wants to creep forward even in neutral... I've
checked the cable adjustment a few times.. its right on..
my question is... if the bands or a band is too tight or
loose... could this cause this... I have all the forward
gears and OD..... any ideas... if I cant get this done very
simply I'm calling it quits for DW.. I'm not pulling this thing
apart again... oh yeah.... it worked yesterday when I turned
it around in the driveway.... fluid is full
thanks
EDIT
This is a 518 but the front section is basically a 727

I don't know about reverse but I've had mine creep in neutral with too tight a band adjustment.

Damon

Which band.. the outside or inside
thanks

Possible that the forward (rear) clutch pack is to tight?

low reverse band, unfortunately the one on the inside.

Balky Reverse and drives forward in Neutral is a rear clutch that's not releasing...usually due to a failed Belleville. Has to come out.

Thats the thing about me and trannies.. the terminology
is all wrong... the front drum is the rear or something
like that... the kick down band and they have a double
wrap band(the inside adjuster)... in my books they show
the kick down adjuster the one on the outside.. if I
have to pull this trans again... I'm DONE... no DW for me
what pisses me off is it worked yesterday... it all worked
the way it should
My one book (518 book) calls out the band adjustments
as front and rear band... which is the front

I agree with John... the only time I've seen creep in N is when a clutch pack had welded itself together, or come apart in a fashion that allowed it to drag.... Hard to not forget starting a towed in Dakota in N and diving into the open window to stop it


....and I hope AT LEAST you can find a helper or two and get that sucker out again. Don't f'n give up now!!

....and I always referred to the clutch packs like the newer service manuals: Front clutch, first one you pull out/drum that can explode . Rear clutch, second one in line with the input shaft splined to it's rear retainer. Front band (aka kickdown band) external adjustment. Rear band (aka L/R band) internal adjust.

This trans I bought from the bone yard... it had been
gone through already at some point... it had a sticker
on it from some trans shop... I had pulled the pan and
the front pump... I put in a 727 type pump so the conv
would fit the lugs.. I cant remember but I might have
adjusted the bands and welded in a drain plug for my temp
gauge... the things looked good in there that I could see

dang it Mike why didn't you send it to a tranny guy and have them go through it? with all the trouble you have had it just makes sense. the money spent you would have saved many times over on time and labor.

My trans has always tried to creep in neutral and it works fine. Check your band adjustments front , the easy one and then try the rear " the one inside. Check the pan for junk . I had my valve body give me a fit lately so check the bolts on the valve body too. Don't pull that darn thing out until you know for sure.

I'm gonna try something tomorrow... I'll put the trans
in reverse at the trans without the shift cable and see
what happens.. my safety switch is in the shifter so it
will start

The forward clutch is the rear clutch, the high reverse clutch/direct clutch is the front clutch/drum right behind the pump. Nomenclature.

Sucks to hear Mike, don't give up now. There's still time.

I know this don't help you, but years ago I had a sb 727 that least 3 local shops worked on and it was never right.

I helped my old boss rebuilt a 727 out of his work van one time, long time ago. And I got good at building shorty powerglides for my early dragsters, but I wasn't gonna try to fix that old 727 after so many people worked on it. I got some of my parts from Coan Trans in Ind for my powerglides(I built 4 of them, one for a buddy) and raced with him and his son when we raced super quick.

So I called them "right off the street, didn't even tell them who I was at first" and it was 600 bucks and a core for street fighter sb 727. I took them the 727 nobody could get right and swapped for there trans and is the best I ever drove. Crisp shifts big time and still today over 14 years later. Then I bought a second 727 for my 440 a few years later and I think it went up to 650? this was in 2005 when I built my gold challenger. It still rocks today 10 years later, kills the tires on the shifts, love em.

All these years later they have been great values.

I also used there custom converter too, it was not big bucks at all, they were cheap compared to a 8-9" racing convertor.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

I've rebuilt 3 or 4 727 and one is still in the race
car... but I asked for help with the 518 since I was
never in one... this had reverse yesterday

Unfortunately the only scenario that makes the car go forward in neutral is applied rear clutch. No band adjustment will do this.

The only way it applies is mis assembly or sobering up with the valve body, but since you didn't have the valve body apart it sounds like maybe the spacr ring might be in the wrong side of the Bellville spring?

Sorry Mike I'm at the airport, try to call you tomorrow.

Mike how old is the rebuild ? If it's new check your valve body seating and your band adjustments first. It can't hurt and may save the trip.

I bought this from the bone yard... it had a sticker
on it from a rebuild from from trans company... no clue
when it was gone thru but the oil was good and the filter
looks decent and was nothing in the pan
EDIT
I have a second trans that came out of the car.. it
had problems also... but I went thru this one myself
but now I'm scared to just put it in now with the way
my luck has been running

Sounds like you have a lock up pump and non lock up convertor. Or vice versa. It will almost seem like you have a trans brake and you have to rev it up and then it will hit.

I made this mistake before, scratched my head for weeks.