Last time I tried something like that it made my 300 handle squirrelly.

I have the 73+ Hotchkis bar with urethane bushings

I agree, roll bar and subframe connectors may not be enough with this much tire/G's

Hey Tom! Great job so far this year. I was looking at your pics, and wondered if you are running A-body shackles, and rubber or urethane bushings on them? Seems like a bit of side to side movement on the rear. I run B-body shackles and urethane bushings on mine to minimize this. Rick

Thanks Rick, I have Hotchkis shackles with Urethane, I'm not sure if there is a way to tighten them up. Have you been Autocrossing the Dart lately?

Our next San Diego SCCA event was on the fast side of Qualcomm, and it was a good course, all the top CAM-T guys were there, including a very quick 427 LS powered Ridetech 68 Camaro that the week before finished 4th in class at the Vegas Optima... Always fun to have high dollar/proven fast visitors come down to our house...

I heard there is another race at crows landing next weekend??

I believe that Crows Landing event was cancelled or delayed, check before you go!

Here are a couple of the slowest CAM cars in action Sunday, they put on a good show!

And a couple of fast guys...

The Valiant had the new Wilwood Dynalite calipers and Córdoba 11.75 rotors for the first time, and they felt pretty good, not a lot of heavy braking zones this time so it's hard to give a full evaluation. I also ran the front 275/35/18 Bridgestone RE-71R on an 18x10 inch wheel instead of my 285/35 Hankook V2s this time, since the Hankooks seem to be going away. The Bridgestones felt great, but the Hankooks on the rear felt loose. A lot of my competitors said their cars felt loose as well so some of it may have been the track, lots of off-camber turns, tough for muscle cars. My co-driver did really well and finished 3rd in a tough field, and we kept the interloper Camaro in 4th so he wouldn't think we were easy targets compared to the Optima crowd. I narrowly held off the newly Hotchkissed 66 Mustang for the win...

You can run a Watt's link or even a panhard on a leaf car.

I have a panhard bar on my AMX. Works great. Doesn't upset anything, some people have said that it would on a leaf spring car.

Tom, way to wave the Mopar flag man!

So how much will either help rear roll?

Rear roll is controlled by spring rate, and anti-sway bar rate, with properly matched shocks. With the tire air-pressure, side wall height and stiffness having some effect, which also works with the shocks. The panhard bar, and Watts links are mostly for side to side control, neither has any real up and down control of the vehicle. Keeping the car's center-line and rearend's center-line in line.

Thanks Emil!

By feel I didn't think I was having a problem with side control, and Im not sure if the lean in general is being caused more by the front or the rear. Does anyone know if there are front or rear sway bars out there that will reduce roll more than the Hotchkis 73+ kit?

Maybe put some stuff like soft wax glued to the inside of the fender lips. Then measure the space between the tire and wax. Then take a lap or 2. Then measure the gap to see how much wax is rubbed off. That should tell you how much the rearend is moving to each side.

Or maybe have someone with a good movie/vid camera that can stand on each side of the course, and can take a vid of the rear tires as you go around the corners. Then watch the vid to see if you can tell how far the car's rearend/fender lips is moving side to side in relation to the tires/rearend. A good enough camera so you can watch it in really slow motion and still have a sharp picture.

From the 2 pictures in your last reply, I'd say the rearend is moving 2" side to side, maybe.

Go Pro or XD mini cam....

My rear sway bar is disconnected so that is what looks like is flopping around back there. But you can see the distance the sway bar arm separates from the dog bone link. Seems like about 3/8" to 1/2"