Having trouble getting the door striker adjusted on my 70 challenger. The latch has been cleaned and lubed, and the striker is a new repo from a popular seller on ebay. Outer door handle is a new repo as well. With door open, the latch works fine with either handle. When it’s closed it seems to latch fine, but the door won’t open without pulling out on the door frame. I’ve put masking tape around the striker in the door jam so I can make fine adjustments, can’t seem to nail down the location. What’s a little strange is if I take a striker out of the door jam and put it into latch in the fully latched position it seems to not have any slop at all. Almost in a bind. Sort of like the OD of the end of the striker is too big. If anyone can measure the OD of an oem one, I’ll compare to mine. thanks

Ck to see if you door hinge is worn out letting the door sag.

Should've have mentioned hinges are rebuilt. Everything is tight, door gaps are good. Door weatherstrip is installed too, doesn't seem to be any issue compressing it either

check for rubbing inside door panels to the 1/4 panel

The latch is not releasing is the problem. Door panels or weather-stripping isn't an issue.

Is there a chance the striker bolt is slightly bent or needs to be shimmed in or out? Can you hold the outer door handle up and see if it will close without a bind? The gasket should provide enough push to open it if everything else is fine. I have used the repro striker bolts on my e body and they worked fine. Yours maybe in or out too far.

Striker bolt is a new repo. Shimming it in, towards the jam, is a good idea. I can remove the big washer and install something thinner. thanks

You need to adjust the handle mechanism. There is a 1/4 hole in the door just above the latch . It takes a allen wrench . Break it loose and move it which ever way fixes it .

Shimming the striker either way didn't help. I took out the latch and hitting it hard with PB blaster so it will move easier. I'm not aware of any adjustments for the handle or latch, but I'll have a look. The latch and handle work fine without the striker in it.

I threw my old striker bolts away so I don't know what the OD of the head is. Mine is also a 70 Challenger. Without the striker bolt in place is your door exactly the correct height at the door top and quarter panel? If so then what I do is just snug the striker bolt and push the door to latch it. When you open it you will be pretty close to where it wants to be and you can adjust and tighten from there. Those doors are very heavy and sometimes people use the striker bolt to correct a sagging door. From what you describe it may be the case. I don't know anything else that could cause it. As for an adjustment on the latch mine does not have one either.

I just offered my opinion . I have done 100s of these and beleive me they have a adjustment on the door latch assembly . See the allen screw??????

Note the hole in the door above latch.

You are correct mine does have that same hole. Is the allen screw used to take up travel in the linkage?

Thanks for the tip on the adjustment. Mine does have them, it's a 70 challenger. It was already adjusted to give the maximum stroke of the latch using the outer door handle. The handle and latch works fine, always has. It's just when the striker is in the latch is when the latch doesn't want to release. Anyway I re-lubed the latch and re-assembled it all. It's a little bit better. If you really tug on the outer handle, it will open. But something isn't right. Maybe the striker is at a small angle with respect to the latch......The other door works fine. All door gaps are good. I may turn .010" or .020" off the OD of the striker and see what that does. The best idea may be to just work on something else for a while !

Just checked this OEM one.
.682

Thank you sir. Can you measure the end OD where the hex drive is ?

Have you tested to see if the latch releases with the door open when you lift the handle? It should release easily.

My repo measures .692" the big end is .868"