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I am looking for a little more juice out of my motor. It is a relatively stock build.
Recent .030 rebuild (piston kit unknown). Told builder to keep near original specs of compression
Comp CamsXE262H-10
915 heads stock rebuild
Stock intake and exhaust manifolds with 2.5" duals, x pipe
727 with shift kit Converter unknown
3.23 suregrip
Eddy 750 vacuum
Mopar electronic ignition w/ chrome box and FBO recurve
14 degrees BTDC at idle, all in at 2500rpm 36 degrees
20" vacuum at idle

I want the best bang for buck to get some more pop as it has no throw you in the seat feel. Will only spin the 255 Coker redlines if turn wheel and stops pulling before 5 grand.

I want to keep the stock look, including air cleaner, and that is why I removed the Eddy Performer intake. I have the stock 4327s Carter to send to Scott for rebuild if that would help any.

Don't want to break the bank but if I need better heads and a carb I will do it. Dont want headers.. Any thoughts?

My plan was to throw on the Carter, put in 3.55s, and maybe better heads..Not sure which..

Thanks, Pete

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I would find out what converter you're running. might be too high a stall for your build. wouldn't start throwing any money anywhere until I knew that.

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I am looking for a little more juice out of my motor. It is a relatively stock build.
Recent .030 rebuild (piston kit unknown). Told builder to keep near original specs of compression
Comp CamsXE262H-10
915 heads stock rebuild
Stock intake and exhaust manifolds with 2.5" duals, x pipe
727 with shift kit Converter unknown
3.23 suregrip
Eddy 750 vacuum
Mopar electronic ignition w/ chrome box and FBO recurve
14 degrees BTDC at idle, all in at 2500rpm 36 degrees
20" vacuum at idle

I want the best bang for buck to get some more pop as it has no throw you in the seat feel. Will only spin the 255 Coker redlines if turn wheel and stops pulling before 5 grand.

I want to keep the stock look, including air cleaner, and that is why I removed the Eddy Performer intake. I have the stock 4327s Carter to send to Scott for rebuild if that would help any.

Don't want to break the bank but if I need better heads and a carb I will do it. Dont want headers.. Any thoughts?

My plan was to throw on the Carter, put in 3.55s, and maybe better heads..Not sure which..

Thanks, Pete

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I would find out what converter you're running. might be too high a stall for your build. wouldn't start throwing any money anywhere until I knew that.

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Ok I think that 750 is to big for near stock 440.
I would try a 650 holley or the thermo quad.
also something does not sound right.
I had a 383 stock with Edelbrock performer cam, performer low rise intake and carb performer 600.
pertronic ignition conversion worn out distributor in 69 charger with stock 727 trans and magnum manifolds with 906 heads and the car would smoke the tires no problem.
the 440 should have more power than that! also it should pull to 5 grand if that is the cam you have.
sounds like to me you have real weak valve springs if its not pulling to 5 grand.
do you trust the engine builder?
did you get what you paid for?

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Ok I think that 750 is to big for near stock 440.
I would try a 650 holley or the thermo quad.
also something does not sound right.
I had a 383 stock with Edelbrock performer cam, performer low rise intake and carb performer 600.
pertronic ignition conversion worn out distributor in 69 charger with stock 727 trans and magnum manifolds with 906 heads and the car would smoke the tires no problem.
the 440 should have more power than that! also it should pull to 5 grand if that is the cam you have.
sounds like to me you have real weak valve springs if its not pulling to 5 grand.
do you trust the engine builder?
did you get what you paid for?

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I am now suspicious of build. I referred a friend to the builder who is respected but apparently had one of his techs do his 383 and installed the wrong piston set, resulting in low compression dog. Mine doesn't have same symptoms as his and would smoke the old dried out tires before I got new ones. Also, if I stand on the brake pedal and load it I am sure I can break it loose. As I said, if I give it a little turn of wheel and punch it it goes sideways and holds it pretty well. These cars ran 16.00s when new so I think I got what I paid for, a mild rebuild.

I ran it close to 5 grand once and got a serious knock that went away after shut down. Never came back?? I have discussed it on previous threads and am a little nervous to tach it back up..

I think I will rebuild the Carter and see if that works better.

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Ok I think that 750 is to big for near stock 440.
I would try a 650 holley or the thermo quad.
also something does not sound right.
I had a 383 stock with Edelbrock performer cam, performer low rise intake and carb performer 600.
pertronic ignition conversion worn out distributor in 69 charger with stock 727 trans and magnum manifolds with 906 heads and the car would smoke the tires no problem.
the 440 should have more power than that! also it should pull to 5 grand if that is the cam you have.
sounds like to me you have real weak valve springs if its not pulling to 5 grand.
do you trust the engine builder?
did you get what you paid for?

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I am now suspicious of build. I referred a friend to the builder who is respected but apparently had one of his techs do his 383 and installed the wrong piston set, resulting in low compression dog. Mine doesn't have same symptoms as his and would smoke the old dried out tires before I got new ones. Also, if I stand on the brake pedal and load it I am sure I can break it loose. As I said, if I give it a little turn of wheel and punch it it goes sideways and holds it pretty well. These cars ran 16.00s when new so I think I got what I paid for, a mild rebuild.

I ran it close to 5 grand once and got a serious knock that went away after shut down. Never came back?? I have discussed it on previous threads and am a little nervous to tach it back up..

I think I will rebuild the Carter and see if that works better.

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These cars ran 14.0-14.8 stock, through huge reverse flow mufflers with 2.25 inch tail pipes. One that ran 16.0 would be a serious dog.

Try the A/F meter. I don't want to condemn the 750 Eddy, but there are noted problems and they require more attention than most. You should see around 13:1 or richer at WOT. As noted a few times it shouldn't have a problem spinning those tires. There may be alot left desired in the tune, but I'd question the build too. Maybe a low compression engine, which should still spin the tires. If your Avalanche is faster there is an issue.

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I don't think it is running out of fuel. If it was bad enough that it won't pull in first then it would be completely gasping in second and never make Drive.
Starts, shifts and drives well. Even grabs second every now and again. Less than 500 miles on build. Just no seat in pants pull at all. Much weaker in second..

Did they cut the heads when they rebuilt it? If so, how much? Unknown..
Adjustable rockers? Stock Rockers
If it still has stock rockers and the heads are cut a bunch it could be pumping up the lifters and floating the valves slightly. While we are on the subject of valve train, was the cam degreed?
I doubt the cam was degreed. I will try to find out.

What does it have for compression pressure?
Unknown

Also I would pull the pan and see how far off the bottom of the pan the pickup is. They don't rattle for no reason.
I don;t know what happened. I thought the motor was gone. It has a windage tray. Straight line accel and about 4700 loud knocking. Limped home. Shut down. Restart later. No noise??

Kevin

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(as said) what converter/cranking compression. HP or lowpo ex manifolds? total vehicle weight? I'd want 3.55's or 3.91's. how tall are those tires? non restrictive air cleaner?. with 20" of vac you do have a healthy long block. You might bring the curve in faster (lighter springs) & bottom line-no pinging allowed.

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You may, like a lot of other Mopar car owners, have a fuel delivery problem If you have the stock carb,. off of a 440 it is not to big Trust me on that I would go ahead and put the wideband sytem on the car and use it, it will tell you right away about the fuel supply system, if it starts to go lean at the higher RPM, especially in high gear , it is runing out of fuel Been there done that with all good parts There are a lot of gremlins that can affect fuek delivery, a lot of them Let us know waht you find out

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a little hard to help when we don't know the actual performance of the car. It might be exactly where it should be and your expectations are too high, or the thing is a total turd, we just can't tell.

My experience is when a guy does not know specifics like pistons and compression ratio, it is usually not good, i.e. very low. You should do a cylinder pressure test. Also, it would be helpful to know the cam.

There could be several reasons that it is under performing:
1) like Cab said, fuel delivery. It can rob power like no other, and unless you test it, you won't know.
2) Plugged or internal failure of muffler. This has happened to me twice. That is an instant loss of 30 + hp, but every thing seems fine.
3) Low compression.
4) Poor heads.
5) Poor tune


The factory intake is the biggest bottle neck on an already good running 440. It is done at 5000 and getting the motor to go past 5200 is a challenge.

A good set of 915s with some porting, good cam, decent compression ratio and a good tune will result is a car that runs very well, even with factory intake and the 4327 carb.

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THe 440 RT was a 15 second car and the Hemi was a mid 14 second car stock.
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/sedans/112_6706_dodge_hemi/photo_04.html
I have not dialed in the Eddy. Straight out of the box except float and idle circuit tune for max vacuum.

I have a bung on each side. Do I have to do a separate run for each side??

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I see a two runs of 15.4 and 14.7 for the RT and the car had the Cleaner Air Package Lots of these cars ran well into the 14s. Don't settle for less!