I was just wondering if anyone on here has had any cooling issues on the street.Im thinking of buying a 4.5" iron MP block. Probably 4.15 stroke with alum indy heads 10.5 compression.

Thanks Guys
CB

I have one is a street car with a stock 26" radiator.526 cid 710 hp with mopar alun minum heads with no overheating issues. I even got stuck in a cruse in night last summer around 80 degrees out and went one city block in about 15 minutes with no problems never got over 195 degrees.

I've got one in my truck with iron hemi heads on it. The radiator is out of a '58 Newyorker. Been driving it for 2 years on the street, including in temps in the 90's, highway and lots of stop-in-go city traffic. No problems, go for it and have a little fun with the locals. Dave

I had a wedge version in my last car (630 HP 493). Used a Be Cool rad and clutch fan. It would get a little hot for my liking (190) in the heat while stuck in traffic, but as soon as you got moving it would drop right down to 175-180. This is more of a fan issue than a block issue. It should work fine.

Thanks guys. I will be in the market for one about march or april,when work picks up again.
Any opinion on where to buy?Im in western PA.

Thanks
CB

I have a 528 Hemi with Stage V aluminum heads and I think that the fan/radiator set up is the key to keep these siamese blocks cool. I ran a fixed fan with a shroud and an aluminum radiator; no problem whatsover on the road. But once I got in traffic it climbed very quickly and I changed over to 2 electric fans and it helped the in town driving considerably.

QuickD100 and I bought our bare blocks from JEGS.

Check with your local Dodge dealer for pricing. You don't have to pay freight when you buy direct from the dealers so that can save you a bunch over a mailorder place.

How do you like the Stage V heads?
Is there more flow than the MP heads?

I had Tim of FHO (FOR HEMIS ONLY) assemble and do a mild port job on them. At the time MP was having casting problems with them so I went with the Stage V and am very happy with them.

Did you get a finished bore block,or the 4.498 rough bore? .002 doesn't seem like a lot to finish up at 4.500. Or should I just get the finished block. But how round and straight are the bores? Yeah lots of questions here,thanks guys.

CB

It's been almost 2 years since I purchased the block; at the time MOPAR was having problems with their foundry and 4.5" blocks that had enough thickness were few and far between. And most of the dealers were backordered. Now they are better quality and plentiful(so I am told) so you should be able to locate a dealer and might get a break on the price. Around here dealers are not performance orientated and won't give you a break on the MP products plus you have to pay the 6.75% tax on top of it. I had the block sonic checked and everything checked before we did any machine work. I did get the 4.498 rough bore and you have to figure the piston clearance on this so it is more than .002" you referenced.

Larry and I, (HemiRam) used the same machinist and had the same blocks 4.498 bore. Our machinist was the only guy between us and Minneapolis, Mn. with a 4.50 bore torque plate which was used to finish hone our blocks. He's also the same machinist that helped fix the lifter bore fiasco on the Moparts EM entree a few years ago. Dave