Old School Engine Rebuild
#174805
12/25/08 04:12 PM
12/25/08 04:12 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 14 Tennessee, Chattanooga
oldsatellite73
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 14
Tennessee, Chattanooga
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Hello, My name is Donald. I am new to this site and am seeking advice and ideas. I am doing an engine build, strictly old school.
I am restoring and improving my Grandfathers 1973 stellite which was recovered from his farm field after sitting 30 (+) years. So far I have restored the body, no bondo in this baby. Shaved the exterior side trim and repainted it an original and curious color of FE5 Ralley Red (Sort of Red-Orange). Repaied/Replaced all plastic trim and chrome. Repaired and corrected all electrical problems and shorts. Restored the interior, right down to the factory aftermarket 8 track tape player with dual speakers in the rear deck). The suspension has been upgraded with a P.S.T. kit and frame isolators (k member) replaced. It is now time for the engine and transmission.
The engine in question is the Numbers matching 318 with A904 Transmission which came with the car. So far I have disassembled and cleaned all parts. Had the block dipped and checked for cracks. Bored .30 over due to a head gasket leak into the #3 cylinder which sat for years. New brass freeze plugs. Crank polished and connecting rods checked and peened. New TRW pistons with double valve reliefs. New cam and main bearings. Standard heads with a three angle valve job and new springs. Upgrade cam, i.e. Comp Cams XE262H-10. New Mellig HD oil pump. Had the entire assembly balanced as a unit.
Parts which have been given to me are as follows: Edelbrock S.P.2.P.-318 4 bbl intake. Edelbrock 1406 performer series carb. with electric choke. Edelbrock chrome valve covers. Stock Chrysler electronic ignition system. I have the stock exhaust manifolds which will allow me to order Head pipes from tti and install a dual exhaust. My birthday present this year included a pulley conversion kit from Bouchillon Performance which allows me to bypas the A/C system and remove excess weight. The A/C system components are now in storage for future consideration.
I would like to improve the performace of this engine with components which can easily be purchased from local stores and suppliers. I would like suggestions and advice concerning any do it yourself improvements which can make minor horsepower gains, and do not jepordize lont term use. Things such as distributor advance springs, carb. spacers, windage tray, porting and gasket matching, etc. would be greatly appreciated. I AM NOT PLANNING TO RACE THIS CAR NOW OR IN THE FUTURE. It has become the Hot Rod all guys wanted during their teenage years growing up.
P.S. Just scored a floor shift column from a 1973 Plyouth Roadrunner and a Spector Brand floor shifter. With an original bench seat car this could get interesting in the future.
By the way! I am the total computer idiot. It has taken weeks to get this far. If anyone wants to see a Picture, you will have to walk me through the process. I have tried it the site way, with no luck. I am a photobucket.com susscriber and would gratefully accept any and all help with this part of posting.
Thanks in advace for any and all help....
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Re: Old School Engine Rebuild
[Re: Devil]
#174807
12/25/08 04:27 PM
12/25/08 04:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,875 Weddington, N.C.
Streetwize
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,875
Weddington, N.C.
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Square decking the block would be a good addition to your machine work...the only "weakness" of the 318 is it's lack of compression and the rather small 1.78" intake valves. I used to bowl port them and drop in a 1.88 out of a 360 to help the power....pretty nice power gains for relatively little $$$ effort and often better in heavy cars than opting for the bigger port 360 heads. The respond very well to "old school" hop-up parts though, but at 4000 pounds build for torque, not top end power. The old comp 268 High Energy cam works well with a 9:1 shortblock, a decent dual plane intake (even a stock 340 works pretty well) and a 600 Vac secondary holley 1850. Oh...Please Keep the A/C....it's a great option to have and it doesn't really drain that much power....you could always put a throttle switch with a relay on it to cut off the compressor clutch at higher RPM anyway.
Last edited by Streetwize; 12/25/08 04:29 PM.
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Re: Old School Engine Rebuild
[Re: Streetwize]
#174808
12/25/08 05:01 PM
12/25/08 05:01 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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I'd suggest you purchase a hardened fuel pump eccentric & drill a hole in one of the cam retainer plate bolts to let oil squirt on the t chain/gears(2 SB problem areas) & a quality tchain/gears.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Old School Engine Rebuild
[Re: oldsatellite73]
#174811
12/25/08 07:38 PM
12/25/08 07:38 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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Don glad you made it home safe & sound. We owe you(& guys/gals like you). No apologies necessary, this is a free site & everybody on here has volunteered to be here. Post all you want & if on occaision it happens to be redundant we don't sweat the small stuff(most of the time )
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Old School Engine Rebuild
[Re: oldsatellite73]
#174813
12/25/08 08:06 PM
12/25/08 08:06 PM
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,091 oberlin, Ohio
Rapid340
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,091
oberlin, Ohio
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It sounds like you are not interested in going to a different motor. But if it were me I would find a cheap 360 and rebuild that, or if you want to keep the 318 get a 390 stroker kit and a set of 360 heads.
A real 318 can make some decent power but you will need compression (KB pistons), and 360 heads would would save you needing to port the 318 heads.
That heavy car is going to respond to torque and that is why a stroker may be worth the money in the long run.
1971 Factory Appearing Duster 340 11.000 @ 122 mph
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Re: Old School Engine Rebuild
[Re: RapidRobert]
#174815
01/03/09 07:56 PM
01/03/09 07:56 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 14 Tennessee, Chattanooga
oldsatellite73
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 14
Tennessee, Chattanooga
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Well people, I took the car out of storage 2 days ago (New Years Day). Beautiful thing, started right up after charging the battery and priming the carb. Just a small bit of smoke on start up, and purred like a kitten once warmed. My VIN is RH23G3R143336. Since the car is in great shape, I have'nt taken enough of it apart to find the build sheet (YET!). Repaint was easy, just sand and re-prime, seal it, and re-paint. Grandpa had the rear defroster and blower system removed to install the rear deck speakers with his aftermarket 8 track player with Fm radio cartridge. Have no idea where the parts are, or if they were ever kept and put away.
It seems I may have told a small lie. After reviewing all my Grandfathers papers in the glove box, the engine had been replaced once at 22,319 miles. This was a warranty replacement (Chattanooga Dodge). All of the service papers are there. Even his hand written note book, with ideas and reasons for his sound system modification.
Since I forgot to mention them earlier, here are the casting numbers. The numbers on this engine are as follows: left front pad - M348R C7122184 (Mound Road?). The block casting number is - 2536030 318-9. Head casting number is - 2843675 (int. - 1.78 and exh. - 1.50). When the machine work was done only 10 thousands were taken off the block deck to clean up the surfaces. 5 thousands were taken off of the heads to clean the surfaces. The compression should still be about 8.6 to 1, maybe a bit higher (guessing). I did not have it zero decked to the pistons at the time.
Exhaust manifold casting numbers are: L/S - 2951916 and R/S - 2843953 (Stock). Even though I would like to remain as original as possible in the engine compartment, I am seriously considering a set of headers (always wanted a set).
My transmission is a A904 automatic equipped for light duty. The rear end is an 8 1/4 open carrier with the 2.71 tag still on it under the grease and grime.
Took the time to put the new tires and rims on her to see what it would look like. 15x7 aluminum slots on front with P235/70R15 WRL and 5x8 on the back with P255/70R15 WRL. Stance is really nice and looks sweet. Still have to get a 15 inch steel rim for the spare. The original jack and spare are still in the trunk.
Finally scored the inner rear sail panels to replace the heat cracked old ones ($25.00 for the pair). The should arrive by mail in a few days from California. Still need a new dash pad to replace the severely cracked original. For now, there is a cheap dash cap to make things look neat.
Don't know if the further information will help any, or is of any interest.
Thanks.... Donald
P.S. There is currently a 318 from a donor 1974 Satellite Wagon running in the car. The original engine mentioned above, is on the stand to be worked on. A couple of my Christmas presents were a year specific factory hood pin kit (still in the wrapper) from MOPAR (YEAH!)... Plus a shifter boot and chrome trim ring from Year One for my Specter Shifter. It will look good once the Coulmn and Shifter are in and look the part. MAN, NEICES AND NEPHEWS ARE GREAT!!!!
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Re: Old School Engine Rebuild
[Re: oldsatellite73]
#174817
01/04/09 08:32 PM
01/04/09 08:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,968 Hampton, Ga.
70dart360
Green Meister
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Green Meister
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,968
Hampton, Ga.
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First of all for being military!!! As far as the throttle pressure linkage goes. Find a early to mid 80's full sized 318 Mopar (Diplomat, 5th Ave etc) in a boneyard and snag the 3 piece linkage, they work perfect on older ones too if ya get it all. Good luck on the project and keep us updated.
70 Dart Swinger
72 D-100 440 shortbed
76 Pinto, 68k 21mpg!
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Re: Old School Engine Rebuild
[Re: oldsatellite73]
#174820
01/05/09 04:53 PM
01/05/09 04:53 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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You have some good ideas there, but a couple things I'd do a little differently. Forget the orange box ecu, they are junk. You're better off just keeping your stock ecu. If you must buy an aftermarket ones, the chrome ones are supposedly better than the orange ones.
If you plan on keeping that stockish 318, go with 2 1/4" exhaust instead. It'll be better for your combo. If you plan on going to more cubic inches in the future, say buy a 360 and stroke it to over 400 cubes, then I'd go with the 2.5" exhaust. For headers, I would go with the cheapie summit headers with the understanding it'll likely take some "massaging" with a hammer to get them to fit. But they only cost 100 bucks for the set and you can't argue with that price.
The shift kit you want is the transo tf-2, probably the most well-used shift kit out there. Torq converter really depends on your whole combo. I'd leave the stock converter in there for now. If you're gonna run a stockish cam, might as well run a stock converter. If later on you decide you want a more wild combo with more cubes and more cam, then you pick a new converter at that point.
I don't like the looks of those little gauge panels that hang under your dash where you don't see them while driving and can see exposed wires/tubes from the sides. So I put mine into gauge cups and mounted them on my A-pillar. I like it, they are easy to see and look a little more clean IMO.
Gears would make a world of difference, but you gotta decide if you want to invest into that 8 1/4 rear end. It's not a strong one and will not last if you ever want to start making some real power, especially in a heavy car like these.
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Re: Old School Engine Rebuild
[Re: RapidRobert]
#174822
01/06/09 09:03 PM
01/06/09 09:03 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 14 Tennessee, Chattanooga
oldsatellite73
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 14
Tennessee, Chattanooga
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Ok people, a few questions/answers:
for RAPIDROBERT, where does the oil go that gets collected in the timing cover and is this a normal modification?
for WIZE, would like a holley, but money is tight. Will reinstall the A/C system soon as I can check/restore it. Also sent e-mail concerning cost with postage for your manual.
for RAPID340, the donor engine is begging for a better build (stroker would be very nice), I will keep this in mind.
AT LARGE ANYONE, which type of intake are you guys suggesting and be specific, i.e type and part number, egr or non-egr please. If I keep the SP2P (Money) will blocking off the heat crossover do me any good (it is an EGR type).
GENERAL EVERYONE, the sure grip idea is a wash, I'll keep the 8 1/4 for honor sake (original). I will change gear ratios though.
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