Hello, My name is Donald. I am new to this site and am seeking advice and ideas. I am doing an engine build, strictly old school.

I am restoring and improving my Grandfathers 1973 stellite which was recovered from his farm field after sitting 30 (+) years. So far I have restored the body, no bondo in this baby. Shaved the exterior side trim and repainted it an original and curious color of FE5 Ralley Red (Sort of Red-Orange). Repaied/Replaced all plastic trim and chrome. Repaired and corrected all electrical problems and shorts. Restored the interior, right down to the factory aftermarket 8 track tape player with dual speakers in the rear deck). The suspension has been upgraded with a P.S.T. kit and frame isolators (k member) replaced. It is now time for the engine and transmission.

The engine in question is the Numbers matching 318 with A904 Transmission which came with the car.
So far I have disassembled and cleaned all parts. Had the block dipped and checked for cracks. Bored .30 over due to a head gasket leak into the #3 cylinder which sat for years. New brass freeze plugs. Crank polished and connecting rods checked and peened. New TRW pistons with double valve reliefs. New cam and main bearings. Standard heads with a three angle valve job and new springs. Upgrade cam, i.e. Comp Cams XE262H-10. New Mellig HD oil pump. Had the entire assembly balanced as a unit.

Parts which have been given to me are as follows: Edelbrock S.P.2.P.-318 4 bbl intake. Edelbrock 1406 performer series carb. with electric choke. Edelbrock chrome valve covers. Stock Chrysler electronic ignition system. I have the stock exhaust manifolds which will allow me to order Head pipes from tti and install a dual exhaust. My birthday present this year included a pulley conversion kit from Bouchillon Performance which allows me to bypas the A/C system and remove excess weight. The A/C system components are now in storage for future consideration.

I would like to improve the performace of this engine with components which can easily be purchased from local stores and suppliers. I would like suggestions and advice concerning any do it yourself improvements which can make minor horsepower gains, and do not jepordize lont term use. Things such as distributor advance springs, carb. spacers, windage tray, porting and gasket matching, etc. would be greatly appreciated. I AM NOT PLANNING TO RACE THIS CAR NOW OR IN THE FUTURE. It has become the Hot Rod all guys wanted during their teenage years growing up.

P.S. Just scored a floor shift column from a 1973 Plyouth Roadrunner and a Spector Brand floor shifter. With an original bench seat car this could get interesting in the future.

By the way! I am the total computer idiot. It has taken weeks to get this far. If anyone wants to see a Picture, you will have to walk me through the process. I have tried it the site way, with no luck. I am a photobucket.com susscriber and would gratefully accept any and all help with this part of posting.

Thanks in advace for any and all help....

Welcome to the site, I see you made this post once already.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=QuestionAnswer&Number=4893020

Square decking the block would be a good addition to your machine work...the only "weakness" of the 318 is it's lack of compression and the rather small 1.78" intake valves. I used to bowl port them and drop in a 1.88 out of a 360 to help the power....pretty nice power gains for relatively little $$$ effort and often better in heavy cars than opting for the bigger port 360 heads. The respond very well to "old school" hop-up parts though, but at 4000 pounds build for torque, not top end power. The old comp 268 High Energy cam works well with a 9:1 shortblock, a decent dual plane intake (even a stock 340 works pretty well) and a 600 Vac secondary holley 1850.

Oh...Please Keep the A/C....it's a great option to have and it doesn't really drain that much power....you could always put a throttle switch with a relay on it to cut off the compressor clutch at higher RPM anyway.

I'd suggest you purchase a hardened fuel pump eccentric & drill a hole in one of the cam retainer plate bolts to let oil squirt on the t chain/gears(2 SB problem areas) & a quality tchain/gears.

Sorry about posting this twice. First time was from a remote site across the world (IRAQ). I have since returned home (finally). I did not have the site list to which I had posted with me. I will be more careful in the future. My thanks: Donald.....

My thanks for your suggestions and information. I can hardly wait to assemble the engine and install it in the car. My rear end has a 271 tag on it and I assume the gearing is really lame. Heavy car yes, but in honor of my grandfather (my hot rod). Any futher suggestions are appreciated and welcome. You are schooling a purely (Volkswagen/Audi) 4 or 6 cylinder guy into the V8 world. Thanks.... Donald

Don glad you made it home safe & sound. We owe you(& guys/gals like you). No apologies necessary, this is a free site & everybody on here has volunteered to be here. Post all you want & if on occaision it happens to be redundant we don't sweat the small stuff(most of the time )

I had read about this oil bolt in the (cam shaft thrust plate). I did not have one there and have always wondered about this. I will make this happen in the next week or so. I am fairly sure the picture I saw showed it in the upper left corner as you stand in fron of the engine. My thanks: Donald

It sounds like you are not interested in going to a different motor. But if it were me I would find a cheap 360 and rebuild that, or if you want to keep the 318 get a 390 stroker kit and a set of 360 heads.

A real 318 can make some decent power but you will need compression (KB pistons), and 360 heads would would save you needing to port the 318 heads.

That heavy car is going to respond to torque and that is why a stroker may be worth the money in the long run.

Well people, I took the car out of storage 2 days ago (New Years Day). Beautiful thing, started right up after charging the battery and priming the carb. Just a small bit of smoke on start up, and purred like a kitten once warmed. My VIN is RH23G3R143336. Since the car is in great shape, I have'nt taken enough of it apart to find the build sheet (YET!). Repaint was easy, just sand and re-prime, seal it, and re-paint. Grandpa had the rear defroster and blower system removed to install the rear deck speakers with his aftermarket 8 track player with Fm radio cartridge. Have no idea where the parts are, or if they were ever kept and put away.

It seems I may have told a small lie. After reviewing all my Grandfathers papers in the glove box, the engine had been replaced once at 22,319 miles. This was a warranty replacement (Chattanooga Dodge). All of the service papers are there. Even his hand written note book, with ideas and reasons for his sound system modification.

Since I forgot to mention them earlier, here are the casting numbers. The numbers on this engine are as follows: left front pad - M348R C7122184 (Mound Road?). The block casting number is - 2536030 318-9. Head casting number is - 2843675 (int. - 1.78 and exh. - 1.50). When the machine work was done only 10 thousands were taken off the block deck to clean up the surfaces. 5 thousands were taken off of the heads to clean the surfaces. The compression should still be about 8.6 to 1, maybe a bit higher (guessing). I did not have it zero decked to the pistons at the time.

Exhaust manifold casting numbers are: L/S - 2951916 and R/S - 2843953 (Stock). Even though I would like to remain as original as possible in the engine compartment, I am seriously considering a set of headers (always wanted a set).

My transmission is a A904 automatic equipped for light duty. The rear end is an 8 1/4 open carrier with the 2.71 tag still on it under the grease and grime.

Took the time to put the new tires and rims on her to see what it would look like. 15x7 aluminum slots on front with P235/70R15 WRL and 5x8 on the back with P255/70R15 WRL. Stance is really nice and looks sweet. Still have to get a 15 inch steel rim for the spare. The original jack and spare are still in the trunk.

Finally scored the inner rear sail panels to replace the heat cracked old ones ($25.00 for the pair). The should arrive by mail in a few days from California. Still need a new dash pad to replace the severely cracked original. For now, there is a cheap dash cap to make things look neat.

Don't know if the further information will help any, or is of any interest.

Thanks.... Donald

P.S. There is currently a 318 from a donor 1974 Satellite Wagon running in the car. The original engine mentioned above, is on the stand to be worked on. A couple of my Christmas presents were a year specific factory hood pin kit (still in the wrapper) from MOPAR (YEAH!)... Plus a shifter boot and chrome trim ring from Year One for my Specter Shifter. It will look good once the Coulmn and Shifter are in and look the part. MAN, NEICES AND NEPHEWS ARE GREAT!!!!

Time for another update. I have spent the last few days reading through the entire question and answer archives. You people do get around, very opinionated crowd here (ha! ha!). After reviewing everything that has been posted so far and all the messages I have been sent, here is what I am going to do.....

Using many of the parts I have: Keep the Sp2P intake and edelbrock carb in place of the original 2bbl iron intake with carb. Port and gasket match the intake to the heads (minimum only the intake side). Paint to match the engine, keeping stock looking appearance. Use the stock valve covers in place of the chrome edelbrock (stock look). An acceptable air cleaner is going to be a problem????

Use the mopar electronic ignition system without modification. Update this system with a Mopar Orange ignition box. Better plug wire set (to be determined).

Change out the stock exhaust manifolds for headers (brand to be determined). Dual exhaust (2 1/2 pipes) with H-pipe and dynomax mufflers. Forgivable modification????

Going to shelf the Air Conditioning for the time being (old school air for now, i.e. windows down and go faster).

While engine is out: Replace trans input seal (torque converter) and install shift kit (brand to be determined). Checking on a new torque converter (brand to be determined).

Convert to floor shift steering column (Harness should be interchangeable). Install floor shifter and new boot with trim ring. Has been suggested that a small guage cluster would be a nice addition (oil pressure, water temperature and apmerage). Has been suggested that a top dash mounted 3 inch tachometer would look good (am considering these options).

Replace existing 2.71 rear gears for 3.55 set. Limited slip rear end being considered (Money).

Put on new matching sport mirrors (painted black). Apply a 72 Roadrunner roof strobe stripe (semi-gloss black) without roadrunner symbol.

Install hood pin kit received as Christmas gift (cool look).

Rear sail panels have arrived and are being re-dyed to black so as to match interior for installation.

All Satellite and Sebring names are out for rechroming at this time to be put back on the car.

Looking for a Grant 3 spoke steering wheel to change the appearance (does not have to look like a tough wheel), Black or Brushed metal????

Remember people, the donar engine comming out is gouing to be rebuilt and kept on hand as a replacement (or not). This one can be buit better and stronge for the future.

I MAY NOT SEE HALLOWEEN IN THE UNITED STATES THIS YEAR. WE ARE ALREADY "ON ALERT AGAIN". GOT THIS WARNING LAST NIGHT FROM MY UNIT AFTER POSTING THE LAST UPDATE. WOULD LIKE TO GET THIS DONE AND BACK IN STORAGE BEFORE IT IS TO LATE....

P.S. Need suggestions on fabricating (or not) the transmision kickdown linkage and throttle parts to work on this car as is.

Thanks in advance....

Donald

First of all for being military!!! As far as the throttle pressure linkage goes. Find a early to mid 80's full sized 318 Mopar (Diplomat, 5th Ave etc) in a boneyard and snag the 3 piece linkage, they work perfect on older ones too if ya get it all. Good luck on the project and keep us updated.

Donald,

Email me off-group and I will mail a kick-down linkage for your 318 Monday. And thanks for what you do, man!

Donald-----glad to hear of another Chattanooga Mopar person. I live in Hixson. Am working on a 69 Charger. I want to thank you for your service. My son was in Afganistan for 6 months and Iraq for 6 months so I have some idea of what you are dealing with. You have the right idea to read all the posts. That is were the info is. Check out some of the other Mopar sites too. The dodge charger site has a lot of good info on it.
I'am thinking that maybe the best way to go is get what you have running and enjoy it as it. Then save your money for a 360 crate or better yet, build a 451 stroker using a 400 block. You would have to upgrade the trans to a 727 if you do this. Also would probably want to go to 8-3/4 rear end. The gear change in the existing rearend would definitely help. Might consider 3.23. Don't think I would spend the $$ on a suregrip for the 8-1/4. Probably wouldn't go for the headers either. Not sure you would gain that much. You could put on a good H-pipe dual exhaust setup for now. This might be the time to spend some $$ on rebuilding the front suspension and upgrading your brake system. Have fun.

You have some good ideas there, but a couple things I'd do a little differently. Forget the orange box ecu, they are junk. You're better off just keeping your stock ecu. If you must buy an aftermarket ones, the chrome ones are supposedly better than the orange ones.

If you plan on keeping that stockish 318, go with 2 1/4" exhaust instead. It'll be better for your combo. If you plan on going to more cubic inches in the future, say buy a 360 and stroke it to over 400 cubes, then I'd go with the 2.5" exhaust. For headers, I would go with the cheapie summit headers with the understanding it'll likely take some "massaging" with a hammer to get them to fit. But they only cost 100 bucks for the set and you can't argue with that price.

The shift kit you want is the transo tf-2, probably the most well-used shift kit out there. Torq converter really depends on your whole combo. I'd leave the stock converter in there for now. If you're gonna run a stockish cam, might as well run a stock converter. If later on you decide you want a more wild combo with more cubes and more cam, then you pick a new converter at that point.

I don't like the looks of those little gauge panels that hang under your dash where you don't see them while driving and can see exposed wires/tubes from the sides. So I put mine into gauge cups and mounted them on my A-pillar. I like it, they are easy to see and look a little more clean IMO.

Gears would make a world of difference, but you gotta decide if you want to invest into that 8 1/4 rear end. It's not a strong one and will not last if you ever want to start making some real power, especially in a heavy car like these.

Ok people, a few questions/answers:

for RAPIDROBERT, where does the oil go that gets collected in the timing cover and is this a normal modification?

for WIZE, would like a holley, but money is tight. Will reinstall the A/C system soon as I can check/restore it. Also sent e-mail concerning cost with postage for your manual.

for RAPID340, the donor engine is begging for a better build (stroker would be very nice), I will keep this in mind.

AT LARGE ANYONE, which type of intake are you guys suggesting and be specific, i.e type and part number, egr or non-egr please. If I keep the SP2P (Money) will blocking off the heat crossover do me any good (it is an EGR type).

GENERAL EVERYONE, the sure grip idea is a wash, I'll keep the 8 1/4 for honor sake (original). I will change gear ratios though.

ALMOST GOT THIS PICTURE THING FIGURED OUT????