Re: 383 Stroker Reliability
[Re: Sir Valiant]
#1738891
01/26/15 07:16 PM
01/26/15 07:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421 Balt. Md
383man
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
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Quote:
I did my 383/450 stroker with a muscle motors kit, dropped right in!
For a street eng as long as you build it right you should not have any problems. I like to keep mine at no more then .030 over also and build good quench in it along with the right cam to be sure you dont get any spark knock/ping.
Sir Valaint thats a good looking bigblock. I am using the same valve covers. Ron
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Re: 383 Stroker Reliability
[Re: Sir Valiant]
#1738892
01/27/15 03:01 PM
01/27/15 03:01 PM
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 11 Detroit, Michigan
njk53
member
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member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 11
Detroit, Michigan
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Quote:
I did my 383/450 stroker with a muscle motors kit, dropped right in!
Sir Valiant, Out of curiosity, how much $$$ did you get wrapped up in your engine build? A buddy of mine is also wanting to stroke a 383 and is getting numbers that are all over the place.
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Re: 383 Stroker Reliability
[Re: dogdays]
#1738893
01/27/15 05:40 PM
01/27/15 05:40 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688 Marlboro, NY, USA
Rick_Ehrenberg
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
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Quote:
Considering that Pontiac, Oldsmobile and Cadillac had OEM engines with 4.21, 4.25 and 4.31"strokes, respectively, there is no reason why a 4.25" stroke in a B or RB block would be any different.
Reliability depends on quality of parts, how it is assembled, and how it is used.
R.
Hmmm. This gets complex. I have no idea what the deck height (from crank C/L to head gasket surface) is on the engines quoted, but the shorter the deck, and / or the longer the stroke, the shorter the piston needs to be to fit. Once the skirt gets very short, esp. with short rods, there's lots of side thrust / loading which is not conducive to longevity or durability. I think that, for many of us, the engineered-in robustness of Mopars is part of the attraction.
Since B and RB engines have, generally, the same bottom end (of the block) patterns, I build lowbuck B strokers (RB crank) by boring the main saddles to RB size. This way the crank is OEM strength (as is the bottom end of the block).
Of course, lots of different combos can be assembled, and most work quite well, but the original question was regarding reliability...
Rick
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