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With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.

Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.

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Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?

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As long as the ARP bolts are torqued to the same value as the stock bolts , which they would be , not an issue.

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I have installed studs on the mains before and I really don't see how the cap can move a substantial amount after they are "tapped" into place How does the cap know what's holding it in place The only place the cap can move is fore and aft and #3 is the only cap that will really matter on the thrust surface
Gus

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It has nothing to do with the caps moving ... the caps are located in the block by the register step in the block ... studs are torqued to a different value than bolts ... HIGHER ... this higher value can/will distort the main bores ... make them not round.

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So just to be clear you guys have actually measured the bore after you installed studs and and torqued the caps an aditional 15 pounds and could actually measure the distortion of the cap
This claim wil go into the trash with laying a crankshaft on it's side will ruin it More excuses for an engine builder when he has one that scattered
Gus

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YES...............................

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I thought E'berg cleared this up eons ago.

The stock bolt shank is smaller than the hole in the cap so it doesn't make contact with the bolt bore when it is torqued.

An ARP stud is uniform diameter (larger) and on a lot of stock caps, will make contact. This is what causes the distortion on the main bores. In his article he opened up the bolt bores slightly so the studs had more clearance and the distortion vanished.

My ? If you have the tools and the talent, install the caps with studs, torque them with the ARP lube and measure them. If the bores are still within the acceptable +/- .00000X, marvelous.

If you find one that isn't that was OK with bolts, open up the bolt bores so the studs have clearance and it should then be marvelous too.

Kevin

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I thought E'berg cleared this up eons ago.

The stock bolt shank is smaller than the hole in the cap so it doesn't make contact with the bolt bore when it is torqued.

An ARP stud is uniform diameter (larger) and on a lot of stock caps, will make contact. This is what causes the distortion on the main bores. In his article he opened up the bolt bores slightly so the studs had more clearance and the distortion vanished.

My ? If you have the tools and the talent, install the caps with studs, torque them with the ARP lube and measure them. If the bores are still within the acceptable +/- .00000X, marvelous.

If you find one that isn't that was OK with bolts, open up the bolt bores so the studs have clearance and it should then be marvelous too.

Kevin

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Yep. I stated this Eons ago in this thread. my Caps had plenty of contact too with the new Wider shank studs. I redrilled my caps as well, but thsat wasn't enough. The higher torque value distorted them as well. Had to have the line hone, crank wouldn't spin without it.

So the Wider shanks of the studs and the higher torque value both play a roll with the altered tolerences.

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I will also add, check your cylinder bores.

Really no reason to run studs IMO

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When torque specs are changed everything distorts differently ...

unless you are a flat rate mechanic ...

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Something to be aware that happened with my 512 stroker with ARP studs and Road Race Pan.

Cinching down nuts on the oil pan studs at rear main retainer I felt the torque wrench suddenly loosen as though I had stripped either the nut or the stud that was screwed into the Mancini aluminum retainer.

Pulling the pan off, I found this. The number 5 rear main stud had barely caught the oil pan and what I had felt was the pan that had been caught, suddenly slid a bit as torque was applied thereby given me that quick release that I had felt.

Yes this main stud appeared to be properly bottomed in it block hole (I pulled it out to ensure nothing else was in the hole,,,all was well).

A bit of surgery with a Dremel rounded of a bit of the nut side of the stud and all is well.

To this day not certain if was a stud problem or Road Race pan issue. Only one gasket on pan,,,no windage,,, perhaps this had something to do with it,,,places pan closer to block,,,but doubt it.

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Some, not all , of ARP Mopar main stud kits come with two shorter studs in them, those two go in the back on # 5 main cap I make my own crankshaft scrapers that get glued to the block on the passenger and the half of one oil pan gasket gets glue onto the remaining oil pan surfaces and then go from there I use the scraper and stock windage trays with two more oil pan gaskets, lots of clearances between the block and oil pan with all that mess

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Final update. Got the block back from the machine shop. They checked everything and all is good. Even the mains didn't need align honing after installing the studs.

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Clean the block and main caps up real well and install the main bearings and crankshaft with the oil you'll run in the motor on both, without the rear main seal, and see how easy the crankshaft turns using your hand on the snout to rotate it Let us know what you find out Can you measure the I.D. of the bearings and the O.D. of the main journals ? If so please let us know how much clearance you have with no oil on both

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Final update. Got the block back from the machine shop. They checked everything and all is good. Even the mains didn't need align honing after installing the studs.

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When you get to installing the crank and mains.. make
sure you SET the end play.. with the mains just snug
give the crank a whack back and forth with a dead blow
type hammer to set the thrust bearing then torque
it down