Main studs or bolts
#1738035
01/25/15 02:22 AM
01/25/15 02:22 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,121 State, country, etc.
gss
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,121
State, country, etc.
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I had B block machined a couple years ago, just now getting it together and I found that the align hone was done with the original main bolts, not the ARP main studs I have. If bringing it back to the machine shop is not an option, would it be better to go with the studs or get some ARP main bolts, or no difference? Engine is 470" with a solid roller .240/.248 @ 0.050. 9.7:1 CR.
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Re: Main studs or bolts
[Re: gss]
#1738038
01/25/15 01:18 PM
01/25/15 01:18 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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I know I'll get ripped for this BUT I have gotten lucky and installed studs without having it line bored.. put the studs and crank in it and see.. measure twice.. by the way... that engine is still running and still turning some decently high revs
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Re: Main studs or bolts
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1738039
01/25/15 02:08 PM
01/25/15 02:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,121 State, country, etc.
gss
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,121
State, country, etc.
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Quote:
Do you have(or know someone who does) the nessecary mikes, inside and outside or snap gauges and outside mikes to measure the inside of the main caps torque down with both the bolts and then the studs?
Yes I am equipped to do that. Excellent advice. I probably would have figured that out eventually
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Re: Main studs or bolts
[Re: Sport440]
#1738043
01/25/15 08:01 PM
01/25/15 08:01 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,121 State, country, etc.
gss
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,121
State, country, etc.
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Quote:
With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.
Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.
Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?
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Re: Main studs or bolts
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1738044
01/25/15 08:33 PM
01/25/15 08:33 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,318 Prospect, PA
BSB67
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,318
Prospect, PA
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Quote:
I know I'll get ripped for this BUT I have gotten lucky and installed studs without having it line bored.. put the studs and crank in it and see.. measure twice.. by the way... that engine is still running and still turning some decently high revs
Same here.
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Re: Main studs or bolts
[Re: gss]
#1738045
01/25/15 09:16 PM
01/25/15 09:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,591 Canton, Ohio
Sport440
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,591
Canton, Ohio
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Quote:
Quote:
With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.
Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.
Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?
Don't know about just using the Arp bolts, but you have a better chance of not having to, vs uising the Studs IMO.
But, your going to measure anyways. You may get lucky as others have stated, Im betting not though, if you use the Studs. Keep us posted as to what you find.
Last edited by Sport440; 01/25/15 11:43 PM.
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Re: Main studs or bolts
[Re: gss]
#1738047
01/25/15 11:45 PM
01/25/15 11:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,071 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,071
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
Quote:
With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.
Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.
Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?
As long as the ARP bolts are torqued to the same value as the stock bolts , which they would be , not an issue.
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Re: Main studs or bolts
[Re: fourgearsavoy]
#1738051
01/26/15 01:24 AM
01/26/15 01:24 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,071 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,071
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
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With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.
Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.
Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?
As long as the ARP bolts are torqued to the same value as the stock bolts , which they would be , not an issue.
I have installed studs on the mains before and I really don't see how the cap can move a substantial amount after they are "tapped" into place How does the cap know what's holding it in place The only place the cap can move is fore and aft and #3 is the only cap that will really matter on the thrust surface Gus
It has nothing to do with the caps moving ... the caps are located in the block by the register step in the block ... studs are torqued to a different value than bolts ... HIGHER ... this higher value can/will distort the main bores ... make them not round.
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Re: Main studs or bolts
[Re: JohnRR]
#1738052
01/26/15 12:21 PM
01/26/15 12:21 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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Quote:
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With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.
Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.
Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?
As long as the ARP bolts are torqued to the same value as the stock bolts , which they would be , not an issue.
I have installed studs on the mains before and I really don't see how the cap can move a substantial amount after they are "tapped" into place How does the cap know what's holding it in place The only place the cap can move is fore and aft and #3 is the only cap that will really matter on the thrust surface Gus
It has nothing to do with the caps moving ... the caps are located in the block by the register step in the block ... studs are torqued to a different value than bolts ... HIGHER ... this higher value can/will distort the main bores ... make them not round.
that's why you go with better bolts or studs to start with - for the additional clamping power - which of course you would defeat by using the same torque spec as the factory bolts. As said, only real way is to measure, but why pay for better stuff if you are not going to utilize it. If I remember correctly, factory main bolts = 90 ft lbs. ARP studs = 105 ft lbs. Those are recommended torque specs. 15 additional lbs will most likely require remachining the bores. If the OP is trying to stay away from remachining costs, maybe a new set of factory bolts would be a good compromise .
Fastest 300
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