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Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? #1737424
01/24/15 04:17 AM
01/24/15 04:17 AM
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NE Oklahoma
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Von Offline OP
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NE Oklahoma
I noticed the other active brake thread so I thought Id ask about my braking system.

The brakes work OK, not great but OK. The car stops fine, but the brakes wont lock up (front or back).

The car is in my sig. My system consists of 10.75 front discs, 11 inch drums rear. No booster, manual. The calipers are from a 72 Challenger. The master is a MP unit from the late 90s. I do believe it is a 1.125 bore. Not 100 percent on the bore size, but I do know it was bigger of two sizes listed in the MP catalog in 1998ish. I do have a dial type prop valve in the rear brakes.

Ive had the car back together for about 5 years. I drive it on the street as well as track.

But, I feel they arent "right" as I cant make them lock up. The pedal feel is good, not overally stiff or soft.

I assume I need a smaller bore master. Something around a 7/8 inch unit?


72 RR, Pump gas 440, 452s, 3800 lbs, Corked, ET Radials,. 11.33@117.72. Same car, bone stock 346s, 9.5 comp, baby solid. 12.24@110.
Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Von] #1737425
01/24/15 07:37 AM
01/24/15 07:37 AM
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Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog Offline
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The typical understanding is that the bigger the bore, the travel is shorter and the pedal feels firmer. A smaller bore travels further before the brakes react.
In 2011 I tried to switch from my power setup in my Charger to a manual setup, to both save weight and to DEclutter the engine bay. I tried 2 different 15/16" units, a 1 1/32" and a 1 1/8" MC. The biggest one gave a rock hard pedal and the worst performance. At 200 lbs, I couldnt get the tires to skid even on gravel!
The smallest MCs gave better feel but still didn't stop worth a crap. There are unanswered questions on that project that I still wonder about today. I gave up and put the booster back on.

Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Kern Dog] #1737426
02/01/15 01:06 AM
02/01/15 01:06 AM
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Von Offline OP
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Up. Anymore ideas?

Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Von] #1737427
02/01/15 02:59 AM
02/01/15 02:59 AM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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My 65 dart had 76 A body 10.87" discs (2.75" pistons same as yours). 1&1/8 truck dual alum MC. 10" later 7&1/4 brakes & it will lock em up with enough pedal (rears first). Not sure what your exact problem is but my components are similar to yours.


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Von] #1737428
02/01/15 04:44 AM
02/01/15 04:44 AM
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Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
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Try adjusting the proportioning valve until the back tires lock up and then set it so it just won't and see how you like that with the present parts That is a big car Stay safe


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Von] #1737429
02/01/15 08:29 AM
02/01/15 08:29 AM
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The Netherlands
BigBlockMopar Offline
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Quote:

Up. Anymore ideas?




I would find out exactly what bore-diameter you have now and go one size smaller.
Going from 1.125" to 7/8" is way too much of a step and most likely won't work if you have a proper manual brakepedal ratio in the car.

If you don't have a residual valve in the rear brake-line I would get one as well.

Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Von] #1737430
02/01/15 12:00 PM
02/01/15 12:00 PM
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Ontario, Canada
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D149 Offline
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Have you checked the brake safety switch? If the o-rings in it are no good, the brakes won't work very well. To check it, just take out the switch. If there is fluid behind the switch, the o-rings are no good. If no fluid, it is fine.
This was the problem on my Dad's Cuda. We could not get the brakes to lock up (disc/drum). We tried everything, new master, booster, fluid, rebuild calipers and wheel cylinders. Nothing worked until we rebuilt the safety switch. Brakes work great now.
Here is a link on how to rebuild.
Link


1968 Valiant Signet 4dr. 273 4spd
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1970 Dart Swinger 340 4spd
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Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: D149] #1737431
02/01/15 12:33 PM
02/01/15 12:33 PM
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up yours
Supercuda Offline
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Quote:

Have you checked the brake safety switch? If the o-rings in it are no good, the brakes won't work very well. To check it, just take out the switch. If there is fluid behind the switch, the o-rings are no good. If no fluid, it is fine.
This was the problem on my Dad's Cuda. We could not get the brakes to lock up (disc/drum). We tried everything, new master, booster, fluid, rebuild calipers and wheel cylinders. Nothing worked until we rebuilt the safety switch. Brakes work great now.
Here is a link on how to rebuild.
Link




That is not a combination valve, which is what you want in a disc/drum combo.


They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Cab_Burge] #1737432
02/06/15 08:05 PM
02/06/15 08:05 PM
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Posts: 3,698
NE Oklahoma
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Von Offline OP
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Quote:

Try adjusting the proportioning valve until the back tires lock up and then set it so it just won't and see how you like that with the present parts That is a big car Stay safe




No matter where I have the prop valve, neither front or rear locks.


72 RR, Pump gas 440, 452s, 3800 lbs, Corked, ET Radials,. 11.33@117.72. Same car, bone stock 346s, 9.5 comp, baby solid. 12.24@110.
Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: BigBlockMopar] #1737433
02/06/15 08:06 PM
02/06/15 08:06 PM
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NE Oklahoma
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Von Offline OP
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Quote:

Quote:

Up. Anymore ideas?




I would find out exactly what bore-diameter you have now and go one size smaller.
Going from 1.125" to 7/8" is way too much of a step and most likely won't work if you have a proper manual brakepedal ratio in the car.

If you don't have a residual valve in the rear brake-line I would get one as well.




So try a 1 inch master or a size between 1 and 1.125. I do have a pedal from a manual brake car.

Why the residual valve in this app?


72 RR, Pump gas 440, 452s, 3800 lbs, Corked, ET Radials,. 11.33@117.72. Same car, bone stock 346s, 9.5 comp, baby solid. 12.24@110.
Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: D149] #1737434
02/06/15 08:08 PM
02/06/15 08:08 PM
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NE Oklahoma
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Von Offline OP
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Quote:

Have you checked the brake safety switch?




Safety switch is gone...


72 RR, Pump gas 440, 452s, 3800 lbs, Corked, ET Radials,. 11.33@117.72. Same car, bone stock 346s, 9.5 comp, baby solid. 12.24@110.
Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Von] #1737435
02/07/15 03:26 AM
02/07/15 03:26 AM
Joined: Jan 2007
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ahy Offline
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I think you have several things working against you. Heavier car, smaller diameter discs, larger master, manual brakes. I assume you have the correct manual brake linkage which gives more leverage vs the PB linkage.

A smaller master would help. Enough? Not sure. Too small and you may run out of fluid volume or pedal travel. 15/16" is the smallest I'd go. Dr Diff offers one in Aluminum. May be worth a call.

Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: ahy] #1737436
02/07/15 02:33 PM
02/07/15 02:33 PM
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NE Oklahoma
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Von Offline OP
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I may be way off base...but I dont think car weight is an issue. My car weighs no more or within a few lbs of the average BB e body. I have shucked quite a bit of weight off it. Just wondering...how does a similar system work in an e body?

Also, it has been my experience that an "under braked" vehicle usually locks the brakes easily? For instance, ( I know not an exact dollar to dollar comparison) my nissan pickup will lock the brakes way too easy if you put a trailer on it.

This car had 4 wheel manual drums from the factory. It didnt stop as "good" as the current setup, but it would lock all 4 if need be. The car weighs at least 300lbs less than those days.

As far as linkage, I have a pedal from a 71 RR manual brake car. The rod is, I believe, an adjustable rod from master power.

What are the measurements to verify that I have the correct pedal?

Could an incorrect pedal height, too low for instance, be helping cause the issue?

The car does stop pretty decent. On a short 1/8 mile track without much shut down area, I have to lock her down pretty good, but it does it fine. I just dont think that not being able to lock either front or rear is "correct"?


72 RR, Pump gas 440, 452s, 3800 lbs, Corked, ET Radials,. 11.33@117.72. Same car, bone stock 346s, 9.5 comp, baby solid. 12.24@110.
Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Von] #1737437
02/07/15 03:10 PM
02/07/15 03:10 PM
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Andrewh Offline
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reading the original post, I do believe you are correct. you need a smaller bore mc.

here is why.
The amount of force you are applying does not equate to enough force at the calipers to lock up the brakes.
by using a smaller master, the math showed for me an increase of over 100 ft pounds of force applied at the calipers over the larger master that I was using.

since you don't have a booster, this is the only way to increase your brake force applied.

feets excel sheet shows that just by changing the master cylinder, no other differences, makes a huge amount of force difference.

I found that out too real world, that I could lock mine up after that.

Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Andrewh] #1737438
02/07/15 03:44 PM
02/07/15 03:44 PM
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NE Oklahoma
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Von Offline OP
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Quote:

reading the original post, I do believe you are correct. you need a smaller bore mc.

here is why.
The amount of force you are applying does not equate to enough force at the calipers to lock up the brakes.
by using a smaller master, the math showed for me an increase of over 100 ft pounds of force applied at the calipers over the larger master that I was using.

since you don't have a booster, this is the only way to increase your brake force applied.

feets excel sheet shows that just by changing the master cylinder, no other differences, makes a huge amount of force difference.

I found that out too real world, that I could lock mine up after that.




Thanks for your input!

How much smaller did you go in MC bore size?

Is feets excel sheet available on here or should I PM him for it?


72 RR, Pump gas 440, 452s, 3800 lbs, Corked, ET Radials,. 11.33@117.72. Same car, bone stock 346s, 9.5 comp, baby solid. 12.24@110.
Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Von] #1737439
02/07/15 08:28 PM
02/07/15 08:28 PM
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Irving, TX
feets Offline
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Quote:

Is feets excel sheet available on here or should I PM him for it?




The original late night version is available here: http://www.3gduster.com/brakes.html

I have a later version that is more cleaned up and spell checked.


We are brothers and sisters doing time on the planet for better or worse. I'll take the better, if you don't mind.
- Stu Harmon
Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: feets] #1737440
02/07/15 08:33 PM
02/07/15 08:33 PM
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Andrewh Offline
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I only had one choice because of the aftermarket brakes.
1 and 1/8 down to 1 inch.

that 1/8th was a huge improvement.

they didn't make a smaller one for my application. there were a few people that adapted some from other cars, but I figured that was a worst case thing, trying to find a 7/8ths.


and you can download it from http://3gduster.com/brakes.html

Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Andrewh] #1737441
02/07/15 08:56 PM
02/07/15 08:56 PM
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The Netherlands
BigBlockMopar Offline
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I mentioned the residual pressure valve to keep pedal play/throw to a minimum.

My daily Dart has a DrDiff MC (1-1/32") with large C-body calipers upfront and drums at the rear, but since I haven't installed a res.pressure valve yet, and therefore have some more pedal-movement in the system than I would like.
Besides that I also think I would like to try out a slightly smaller diameter MC as I think my brakesystem would benefit from a little more hydraulic pressure.

Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Andrewh] #1737442
02/07/15 11:25 PM
02/07/15 11:25 PM
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Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Big Den Offline
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Interesting thread as I have the same problem now too. Have a 67 Satellite that I changed to front power disc from standard drum drum. Bought a 7 inch MBM from Nelcohotrods complete with MC (1 1/8 bore) and proportioning valve. Was out of warranty before I got to test the brakes and wow, worse than standard disc, literally could not stop this car in any reasonable distance.

Tried to get help for Nelcohotrods and they would not give any suggestions or assistance at all. Was to be made in America parts but I find out today the proportioning valve is China made.

Spoke to National Moparts today and he says those proportioning valves are mostly bad right from the start. He has replaced something like 40 brand new ones that never worked. He gave me a replacement to try and said I need to get down to a 15/16 bore too.

This supports what most of you are saying on here. Smaller bore master and check the PV.

Re: Another brake question....Master Cylinder issue? [Re: Kern Dog] #1737443
02/11/15 11:05 PM
02/11/15 11:05 PM
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Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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you said you tried two different 15/16 units. I was told there is no such thing as one of these. I assume they are a master from a standard brake system and not from power. What did the 15/16 MC fit.







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