Another question about gasket-matching the intake.
#172002
12/20/08 09:59 PM
12/20/08 09:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,085 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
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Benton, IL.
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As I'm getting ready to gasket-match my intake, I noticed that there is a lot of movement that the gasket and intake can do. It seems like it will be difficult to be exactly lined-up every time I remove and replace my intake. So. Would it be best to simply cut the head ports at the gasket surface slightly larger than the intake so that it won't protrude into the air stream?
Also, the heads have been CNC ported which leaves the ridges. Is it really worth the time to clean up the runners to remove the CNC ridges? And how smooth do you get the walls of the intake and head runners?
Eddie heads on a street/strip 500"
Thanks!
Master, again and still
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Re: Another question about gasket-matching the intake.
[Re: VernMotor]
#172004
12/20/08 10:25 PM
12/20/08 10:25 PM
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Posts: 12,085 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
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I see what you mean about marking the location of the intake. But what about just flairing out the head ports at the gasket flange. Just enough to keep it from sticking out in the air stream if the alignment isn't perfect. Is there a real downside to this approach? I'm thinking just the last 1/8" or so of the head port.
Master, again and still
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Re: Another question about gasket-matching the intake.
[Re: DaveRS23]
#172008
12/21/08 11:25 AM
12/21/08 11:25 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
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What I like to do is slide everything one way, maybe to the rear and check the port alignment, this is with the bolts in place, if it looks ok then thats the way I do the port match, or if need be scribe the head where the intake will line up the best. I have before drilled in locating pins so that I can locate the gasket to the intake after matching the gasket to the head. I dont like to make anything larger than the other, this only creates turbulance
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Re: Another question about gasket-matching the intake.
[Re: DaveRS23]
#172009
12/21/08 01:02 PM
12/21/08 01:02 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,085 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
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Okay, I'll try to get a consistent alignment between the intake and head. Thanks!
Master, again and still
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Re: Another question about gasket-matching the intake.
[Re: DaveRS23]
#172010
12/21/08 05:51 PM
12/21/08 05:51 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,586 Illinois, Indiana, Louisiana
ProStDodge
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I don't know if this is a "good" way, but works for me.
On my big blocks, I use a piece of tape to secure the gaskets to the heads, centered on the ports. Install the manifold. I then drill a 1/8" hole at each corner of the intake, into the head about 3/8" to 1/2". There are no ports or water jackets in this area, so on worries. When I remove the intake, I can align the gasket with the drilled holes to insure proper alignment with the head.
When reinstalling the intake, I use a little sealant to secure the gasket in place on the head, drill or poke holes if its a new gasket, set the intake on and start all the bolts. Then drop drill bits into the four corners to align the manifold before tightening the intake bolts.
Little bit of a PITA but I know the gaskets/ports are matched up!
Scott
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Re: Another question about gasket-matching the intake.
[Re: ProStDodge]
#172011
12/21/08 09:29 PM
12/21/08 09:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,085 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
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I like that idea. I see the PITA factor, but I can see it working.
Master, again and still
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Re: Another question about gasket-matching the intake.
[Re: DaveRS23]
#172012
12/21/08 09:38 PM
12/21/08 09:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,591 Canton, Ohio
Sport440
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Canton, Ohio
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Quote:
I like that idea. I see the PITA factor, but I can see it working.
I do it the same way. Its not that bad at all. All that taping and sealing stuff of the pan gasket to keep it from moving is not needed. It bolts on!
I mount the vally pan in its most optimum postion and bolt it on at the ends. Then mount the intake with the bolts in a centered position and then drill my pilot holes. Take it all off and match the intake to the gasket. mike
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Re: Another question about gasket-matching the intake.
[Re: Sport440]
#172013
12/21/08 11:12 PM
12/21/08 11:12 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,181 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
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Bend,OR USA
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There was, at one time, a theory that it was a good idea to have the intake port in the head a little bigger(.060 to .125) than the intake manifold, especially with a big cam with a lot of overlap, so the bottom suface of the intake port would act as a reversion dam during the overlap at low RPMs I have not taken the time to find out if that is a valid idea or not I do know that is way better to have the head port a little bigger than intake port size instead of having the intake manifold port size .030 or bigger than the head port size
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 12/21/08 11:14 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Another question about gasket-matching the intake.
[Re: Sport440]
#172014
12/22/08 03:11 AM
12/22/08 03:11 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,586 Illinois, Indiana, Louisiana
ProStDodge
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Quote:
I do it the same way. Its not that bad at all. All that taping and sealing stuff of the pan gasket to keep it from moving is not needed. It bolts on!
I mount the vally pan in its most optimum postion and bolt it on at the ends. Then mount the intake with the bolts in a centered position and then drill my pilot holes. Take it all off and match the intake to the gasket. mike
Works great for those that use a valley pan, but I was referring to the paper gaskets used when an aluminum valley pan is used in place of the tin gasket.
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