As I'm getting ready to gasket-match my intake, I noticed that there is a lot of movement that the gasket and intake can do. It seems like it will be difficult to be exactly lined-up every time I remove and replace my intake. So. Would it be best to simply cut the head ports at the gasket surface slightly larger than the intake so that it won't protrude into the air stream?

Also, the heads have been CNC ported which leaves the ridges. Is it really worth the time to clean up the runners to remove the CNC ridges? And how smooth do you get the walls of the intake and head runners?

Eddie heads on a street/strip 500"

Thanks!

I like to set the intake on the motor with the gasket on and all the bolts started.And make marks on the intake -gasket-heads on each end. then take apart. line up the marks to see where to grind or cut.

I see what you mean about marking the location of the intake. But what about just flairing out the head ports at the gasket flange. Just enough to keep it from sticking out in the air stream if the alignment isn't perfect. Is there a real downside to this approach? I'm thinking just the last 1/8" or so of the head port.

Well you can that if you want..I would not go that much maybe .060...

.060 vs .125 I wished I was good enough with the grinder to keep it at .060. I was thinking I would be lucky to keep it at .125.

What kind of a grinding bit are you useing that you would grind off a 1/8" in a sigle pass?

What I like to do is slide everything one way, maybe
to the rear and check the port alignment, this is
with the bolts in place, if it looks ok then thats
the way I do the port match, or if need be scribe
the head where the intake will line up the best.
I have before drilled in locating pins so that I
can locate the gasket to the intake after matching
the gasket to the head. I dont like to make anything
larger than the other, this only creates turbulance

Okay, I'll try to get a consistent alignment between the intake and head. Thanks!

I don't know if this is a "good" way, but works for me.

On my big blocks, I use a piece of tape to secure the gaskets to the heads, centered on the ports. Install the manifold. I then drill a 1/8" hole at each corner of the intake, into the head about 3/8" to 1/2". There are no ports or water jackets in this area, so on worries. When I remove the intake, I can align the gasket with the drilled holes to insure proper alignment with the head.

When reinstalling the intake, I use a little sealant to secure the gasket in place on the head, drill or poke holes if its a new gasket, set the intake on and start all the bolts. Then drop drill bits into the four corners to align the manifold before tightening the intake bolts.

Little bit of a PITA but I know the gaskets/ports are matched up!

Scott

I like that idea. I see the PITA factor, but I can see it working.

There was, at one time, a theory that it was a good idea to have the intake port in the head a little bigger(.060 to .125) than the intake manifold, especially with a big cam with a lot of overlap, so the bottom suface of the intake port would act as a reversion dam during the overlap at low RPMs I have not taken the time to find out if that is a valid idea or not I do know that is way better to have the head port a little bigger than intake port size instead of having the intake manifold port size .030 or bigger than the head port size