Find any power or see any e.t difference? If you were using vacuum pump did you remove it?

On my W-9 engine(405ci) I cant say what the gain would
be because I built it with the dry sump from the get-go
but with just the dry sump I would make 12"hg at RPM
and maybe 1"hg at idle.. if you use both a dry sump
and a vac pump you will most likely need a check valve
to limit the vac level... myself, I dont like to go
above 14"hg

Reher-Morrison says up to 50 hp on their website due to the ability to use different rings as well as the reduced windage.

I've seen similiar gains on the dyno but it is a package deal. Everything needs to work together to make those kind of gains.

There are a ton of other advantages with a dry sump system which is why I'd always use one if possible.

Well from my experience we saw nothing on the track. Now this was done on two different motors making a fair amount of power(1100 and 1300). But a 20hp gain likely would not show up on the track. These were both low tension oil ring deals using vacuum pumps both pulling 18+. We were able to loose the vacuum pump on one suing a Dailey pump. The Dailey was able to pull 20+ without a vac pump. The other was a Moroso pump but we had to use a Vac pump as well to get the desired 18". Neither of these were dynode after the change so I cannot say for sure there was no power gained, but bear in mind at the ET these cars ran 20hp will likely not show anymore than a small change in the weather would.

Having said all that if you can afford a dry sump system I think it is a worthwhile investment. As mentioned the oil control is far superior to any wet sump system can be. The ability to warm the oil as well is a plus as well as the ease of pre lubing before the day starts. My Predator deal is a dry sump motor, being built for that purpose. Will have a low tension oil ring(actually uses a very small ringpack all together). We have a vacuum pump as well if we need to use it. Likely we will as it a Moroso pump.

Whether the $2700-$3700 expense is worth it that is a question only you can answer. Is there power there, I would think some. I have never seen any back to back dyno stuff on an engine with a good wet sump system vs a dry sump. I can tell you most heads up organizations have a weight penalty for a dry sump in the naturally aspirated classes. Generally 5% of engine size in pounds.

Just wanted to ad this tidbot since it is a Mopar site. I think if you run a typical Mopar style deal, meaning Milodon pump, stockish pan and typical windage tray that you likely would see a definite gain in HP going to a dry sump. The better the wet sump system the smaller the gain will be.

I have witnessed a very strong running SB 2.2(1006hp)go from an external wet sump to a dry sump and gain nothing. Just saying....

There isn't much cost difference between a good wet sump system and a dry sump system. Once you go with a high dollar wet sump pan and a vacuum pump you're in the same range as a dry sump pan and pump. The high end wet sump systems use belt drive external pumps which cost almost as much as a dry sump pump.

Getting rid of the distributor drive is a good thing on a race engine. One less harmonic for the cam drive to deal with. Not to mention, the chatter that it puts into the ignition system. I can hear the difference on the dyno between a BB Mopar that has a normal distributor/oil pump drive vs. a race engine with a belt drive oil pump and a belt driven distributor. The ignition is rock steady when you get rid of that oil pump helix drive system.

One of the biggest benefits of the dry sump system is that you feed the engine bearings with high quality oil. The oil in a wet sump gets beaten into a froth at high engine speeds so you're feeding the bearings a bunch of air. The dry sump tank is designed to deareate the oil so the bearings get high quality oil rather than froth.

Andy I do not disagree with what you are saying, also why I added that second reply. On a typical Mopar system that 98% of the people use there will likely be a gain. On the other 2% likely not. I was just answering the question as to ET and MPH gains. Form my personal experience on the track we could not see any difference in how the car accelerated down the track. But I think the one big variable is how good was the car/combo before the change. Don't get me wrong I will use a dry sump whenever I can for an all out race engine provided packaging is not an issue.

Thanks for the insite. I'm looking for ways to make more power an see some e.t. gains.

May I suggest

Seriously not sure you will see any big gains from a dry sump unless you have a less than optimal wet sump system.

One other thing to think about with a dry sump is packaging. They take up ALOT of room. With a stock K member, or steering cannot be an easy fit. Even with an aftermarket K and rack it was a challenge and very very tight on our 68 Barracuda.

I think Andy's comments pretty much sum it up....it will also provide additional safety if you would happen to bomb the engine.

For on track performance...well unless you have the trickiest and lightest system components...the additional weight typically offsets the power gain on the time slip.

Will you still need the vacuum pump? In the ideal conditions - no...but we are talking a ton of science and $ to get there.....technology not typically found in a bracket program

I agree but 572 has an 8 second door slammer so he is running as fast as Pro Stock cars were back in the day. Those Pro Stock cars all moved to dry sump systems as soon as they started going fast. I'd say any car that can run in the 8's should have a dry sump in it. Oil control and safety are two big reasons. Getting the nose down close to the ground will also help with the 150+ mph top end.

With the alu. Oil pan that I saw on your new Indy alum. block a couple of months ago(in a pict.), there should be some hp improvement. Front of the pan and the square hole both add to more oil that will follow the rotating parts.
Have you looked at Daileys and Autoverdis billet pans for BAE hemi blocks?
Pump is placed on the right side and you have an extra wheel for belt tension. Don't know how or if the BAE billet pan will fit your Indy block and main caps?

http://www.daileyengineering.com/hemi_426.htm
http://www.autoverdi.com/pumps2.html#pan



I suspect that four roots style scavange sections with the right size(wide) would eliminate the need for an extra vacuum pump in your 572.

I'd look at as an insurance payment. A dry sump allows you to lower the nose of the car so it more stable at speed. There is less chance of dumping oil under the tires if you break a rod when you don't have 10 qts in the pan, and there is less chance of engine damage with a dry sump since you're feeding the mains with deareated oil.

If you save an engine, or avoid a wreck then you've paid for the dry sump system. There is a reason the big boys use them and a 8 second early B body is close to big boy neighborhood.

How much extra weight?
Doug

put that motor in a dragster, you will be a bad Hombre....

The only weight gained will be the oil tank itself, two or three more lines, a belt and pulley, and a few lbs on for the pump itself. I cannot imagine it being more than maybe 15lbs if that. Guess it depends on what you had on it before and how much oil. Never thought to weigh them both.

I have 3 pumps. Two 6-stage Autoverdi, one in the car one spare. Also still got the Weaver Brothers 3-staqe spur gear pump.
As I was about to mount the tank and lines in the car this weekend, I cleaned the tank and put it on our scale at work, also the pumps.
Weight in kg.
4.3kg= 9.5pounds
3.2kg= 7pounds
2.3kg=5pounds ( the tank was missing the puke tank with breather)