I basically want a sub 3000 pound 66 wagon with the best overall handling and braking using (primarily )OEM-sourced parts and assuming 15" Max wheels (15 x 8 cop wheels most likely). Only exception may be the rear brake discs which I'll probably do a Dr diff kit.

Probably 11.75" Cordoba rotors, 340 A body .870 torsion bars (or slightly larger since I've got some fatter tires), XHD (340) springs in back with bolt on swaybars.

This is not gonna be a drag car, I want this one to drive and drive often. 5500 max RPM, 10:1 and "only" about 525 hp with crushing torque curve all through the powerband. 3.23 or 3.55 gears, shift kit. Motor is already sorted and ready to go.

So basically I want a slightly improved police type ride in a ~1000 pound lighter and better weight distributed package.

They made W2 heads for a 440 big block? Never heard of that.

Or would that be some sort of model number for the station wagon?

ONLY an .87 t-bar???? I'd go with a 1" at least and probably a 1 1/4 with a 440 big block, depending if that is really the engine size. Or a 1" min. with a 340ish small block.

If you REALLY want an .870 t-bar, then get a much heavier anti-sway bar, that way the .870 t-bar will allow for a softer/better/smoother ride, and the heavier front anti-sway bar and matched rear bar will allow for more spirited driving of the curvies, been there, done it that way.

440 stroker smallblock W2

I can advise also to use 1" bars.
I went from the stock 0.87" bars to 1" JustSuspension bars in my daily '73 Dart which weighs about 3175 lbs and I'm sure I wouldn't be scared of installing 1.06" or 1.10" bars in it.

If you are going to have a thousand pound lighter (than what?) package you need to remember one thing. Spring rates need to match corner weights.

Just because someone ran a 1" bar in a stockish weighing A body does not mean it's a good choice for one that weighs a thousand pounds less.

Not to mention that wagons have a different, usually better, weight distribution than non-wagons, that will also affect spring rates. Get everything but the suspension sorted out, then get corner weights for us so we can sort out options based on good data, not monkey see, monkey do, suggestions.

Thanks,

Yeah the wagon will be a bit lighter and bit better balanced front to rear than a 340 Duster, balance is the key, i dont really want the ride to be super stiff like my old 94 Firehawk. I now have a 99 V6!Camaro (that my Dad left me) and to be honest it's better balanced and more fun to corner and live with every day than the hawk was.

The car is over at Stephen Daurity's shop and we're just now going over everything.

Thanks!

Tight and fun... as a first step, suggest you beef up/tighten up the unibody. Frame connectors, 2"x 2" box section or more, and full welded/gusseted K frame as a start. Torque boxes and boxed LCA's would help also. The car will feel tighter and be able to handle stiffer springs/shocks better... not much point in stiffer springs if the unibody flexes instead. My original 318/auto Challenger drove better with these changes alone. With a BB and 5 speed + stiffer springs/shocks it really drove better.

Big front sway bar definitely. Rear, maybe. Suggest you drive it first and decide on the rear bar.

As far as spring rates, agree knowing the weight would really help. XHD springs sound about right... though I don't know what's out there in A body length springs. As far as T bars... the trend is to go with really big bars. With your goals I'm not sure "really big" is needed though. Significantly more than stock, no doubt. 1" may be more than you need/want with a lighter package and your goals. Maybe 1 step down would be better. Its also a matter of budget... 1" in an A body length really needs high end shocks. .94" HD/Police bars not so much.

Good luck!

Frame connectors are the first order of business, Got the car over at Daurity's and it don't get no better than that for fab work

Reconsidering maybe a .94-1.0 bar due to the fact I will have a bigger footprint than a 340 duster's little E70-14's. XHD's in the back with some bolt on swaybars should firm it up.

Can somebody give me a bit more insight into the boxed lower control arms? Seems like it would be easy to bridge the LCA channels and stiffen them up a bunch without adding much extra weight.

The car is going to be a really cool driver with lots of party room in the back

W2 heads, mild 251/259 @ .050 roller, peak torque will be around 4000 probably shift it at 5400. Just want a big block mid range, should have that in spades.

Give Dick at Firm Feel a call. he has some experience with the handling characteristics of early A bodies.

Tire kicker

Depending on your budget, IMO shocks are a great investment. I have the Hotchkis 1.5's on my Dart and they are a super shock. Your wagon may benefit from a B-body part # in the rear maybe? Even if you go conservative on spring rate, a shock valved with some balls will give the car a sporty,controlled and "in command" feel.

Firm Feel and DoctorDiff have everything that you need.

Reinforced LCA's. A simple plate welded to the bottom of the LCA. Helps handle sway bar loads. FF and (from memory) Mancini handles the plates. FF can do the welding also if desired.


http://www.firmfeel.com/a_body_mopar_lower_control_arm_reinforcement.html

Early A's seem to have a few challenges compared to the 67 laters, I never had one before but i like the light feel of it, even with the six it felt noticably lighter on its feet than the typical mopar.

I know Bob Tulius and others had some success in SCCA racing in the mid 60's with early A bodys, it should be fun for sure.

I would put 15x7 rallyes on it, would be a appropriate update.

Planning on body color cop wheels with dog dishes