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Re: R/T just quit on me. No spark. Pertronix??
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#1664583
08/29/14 05:07 PM
08/29/14 05:07 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,050
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,050
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
Keep in mind, that during "troubleshooting", if you leave the key/ignition in the run/on mode for more than 20 seconds at a time WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING, you run the risk of damaging the Petronix HallCell
Mike
Well that is just plain silly , what good is something like that ?
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Re: R/T just quit on me. No spark. Pertronix??
[Re: JohnRR]
#1664584
08/29/14 05:57 PM
08/29/14 05:57 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Quote:
Keep in mind, that during "troubleshooting", if you leave the key/ignition in the run/on mode for more than 20 seconds at a time WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING, you run the risk of damaging the Petronix HallCell
Mike
Well that is just plain silly , what good is something like that ?
John, that's what Petronix says:...They insist that if you have to work on the electrical system with the key/ignition in the on position for more than 20 seconds WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING, disable the Petronix HallCell red lead from the coil to avoid damaging the HallCell....
Mike
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Re: R/T just quit on me. No spark. Pertronix??
[Re: wkroncke17]
#1664585
08/29/14 06:17 PM
08/29/14 06:17 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,445
So Cal
Sinitro
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,445
So Cal
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Quote:
Quote:
OP make sure your source provides 12 volts to the petronix unit when hot. I had a car that ran well for a time, 30 minutes or so, then once things were good and heat soaked it died. When hot my source had less than 12 volts. Was fine cold.
I let the car sit overnight, tried it the next day, and still no spark.
Should a volt tester on the + side of the coil give me voltage?
Man I'm not good with this electrical stuff......
What is the air gap?
If the air gap between the module and magnet sleeve is too great...
The ignition will not fire...
With electronic ignition systems, when a problem arises many just start swapping parts when the basic components are fine..
This can also happen with a wide variance in temperature.
Just my $0.01... 
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Re: R/T just quit on me. No spark. Pertronix??
[Re: 1BAD68]
#1664587
08/30/14 01:25 AM
08/30/14 01:25 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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For basics, the coil positive primary and the P need fire in ign2 "crank" and in ign1 "run". If you are supposed to bypass the ballast you either connect the wire(s) on each end together or solder a wire on the back side of the ballast & keep it for appearances sake. If all good on the above as said I'd suspect the Hall cell is fried. I'd at least ohm it & see if it still has continuity
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: R/T just quit on me. No spark. Pertronix??
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1664588
08/30/14 01:34 AM
08/30/14 01:34 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
For basics, the coil positive primary and the P need fire in ign2 "crank" and in ign1 "run". If you are supposed to bypass the ballast you either connect the wire(s) on each end together or solder a wire on the back side of the ballast & keep it for appearances sake. If all good on the above as said I'd suspect the Hall cell is fried. I'd at least ohm it & see if it still has continuity
A quick test for the OP is to of course confirm all mechanical aspects of the ignition system, clean, tight connection, continuity test of the system, air gap adjusted properly, clean/cap/rotor, good plug wires, etc, etc,voltage test, if still no worky, then.....
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Re: R/T just quit on me. No spark. Pertronix??
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#1664589
08/30/14 03:43 AM
08/30/14 03:43 AM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,808
Wisconsin
wkroncke17
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,808
Wisconsin
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Quote:
Quote:
For basics, the coil positive primary and the P need fire in ign2 "crank" and in ign1 "run". If you are supposed to bypass the ballast you either connect the wire(s) on each end together or solder a wire on the back side of the ballast & keep it for appearances sake. If all good on the above as said I'd suspect the Hall cell is fried. I'd at least ohm it & see if it still has continuity
A quick test for the OP is to of course confirm all mechanical aspects of the ignition system, clean, tight connection, continuity test of the system, air gap adjusted properly, clean/cap/rotor, good plug wires, etc, etc,voltage test, if still no worky, then.....
Got new Pertronix system, a 1.5 ohm coil - bypassed the ballast resistor, and it fired right up!!
Gonna definitely use the trick of soldering a wire on the back of the BR to jump it and leave it in the stock place.
Thanks to all who chimed in.
If I encounter any other issues, il be sure to bring them up here.
Wally.
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Re: R/T just quit on me. No spark. Pertronix??
[Re: wkroncke17]
#1664590
08/30/14 11:14 AM
08/30/14 11:14 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Got new Pertronix system, a 1.5 ohm coil - bypassed the ballast resistor, and it fired right up!!
Gonna definitely use the trick of soldering a wire on the back of the BR to jump it and leave it in the stock place.
Thanks to all who chimed in.
If I encounter any other issues, il be sure to bring them up here.
Wally.
When you gut out the Ballast resistor, remove the resistance coil, solder in an INSULATED #10 wire to the 2 terminals, make sure there's nothing that protrudes out the backside to contact the firewall when mounted and possibly short out the bypass, you could also epoxy or plaster the back in to insulate it, you'll now have a true 12 volt system
I'll assume you wired the black lead to the negative terminal on the coil, and the red lead to the positive terminal on the coil, and your blue ignition lead from the harness/bulkhead should go to the positive side of the coil... 
Mike
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Re: R/T just quit on me. No spark. Pertronix??
[Re: wkroncke17]
#1664591
08/31/14 05:58 AM
08/31/14 05:58 AM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 208
Norrland, Sweden
Swedcharger67
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 208
Norrland, Sweden
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Glad you have it working again. Just to try to clarify: - Pertronix generation 1 works exactly as the old points system, i.e. can overheat the coil if ignition is on and the engine is not running. Depending on the coil, this system usually needs a ballast resisitor. - Pertronix generations 2 & 3 have built in electronic current limitation to prevent overheating of the coil with ignition on and not running the engine. These systems are usually used without a ballast resistor, but it depends on the coil. Never use an Ohm-value lower than minimum specified, as this will cause the current to become higher than what the electronics is designed to handle safely. However, to get maximun energy to the sparks one should choose a coil that has the minumum Ohm-value allowed for the ignition system used. 
Martin, 67 Charger, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition & injection
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Re: R/T just quit on me. No spark. Pertronix??
[Re: Swedcharger67]
#1664592
09/01/14 11:15 AM
09/01/14 11:15 AM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,808
Wisconsin
wkroncke17
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,808
Wisconsin
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Quote:
Glad you have it working again.
Just to try to clarify:
- Pertronix generation 1 works exactly as the old points system, i.e. can overheat the coil if ignition is on and the engine is not running. Depending on the coil, this system usually needs a ballast resisitor.
- Pertronix generations 2 & 3 have built in electronic current limitation to prevent overheating of the coil with ignition on and not running the engine. These systems are usually used without a ballast resistor, but it depends on the coil.
Never use an Ohm-value lower than minimum specified, as this will cause the current to become higher than what the electronics is designed to handle safely.
However, to get maximun energy to the sparks one should choose a coil that has the minumum Ohm-value allowed for the ignition system used.
Bump for the Swedish Charger......I would like to know all of this also.
Thanks again guys!!
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