Curious Has anyone like solid mounts for a street car or a combo of one solid & one rubber i was very curious what all you have to say.

I like solid on the driver's side & OE on the other.

No vibration issues & I will never break one.

We run Poly mounts on both sides and the trans mount.For the 62 413 and 65 440 all came from Imperial services.Both have been beat on and street driven.I dont see much difference in vibration.With them I dont tear rubber mounts like I used to.Rocky

Mix them is fine but dont go solid on everything.

All solid felt like being in a dragster at every stoplight. The whole car hummed with the resonating tone of screws and bolts slowly backing out and everything not bolted down jiggled a little. On the power (stick shift) it felt so responsive and amazing, but totally not worth the hassle.

Stock/stock feels and works great for a few months until I put it in reverse and let out the clutch and the stick shift rocks sideways three inches- ripped another one!

Bolt- thru mag mount on driver's side worked great for about 6 months so far but I ripped another PS stocker.

I'm torn between going all poly-lock and 1/2 solid 1/2 bolt thru. I think I'll try one solid first because it's free, but I suspect I should just get the polys, especially since my driveline's pulled right now.

Definitely not a solid trans mount. On a stick car, adding a travel limiter helps with powershifting. Any solid mount will transmit more vibration than a soft mount will. Most important is to stiffen/restrict left engine mount, as the motor's trying to pull up on it under power.

Personally, I run rubber engine mounts and a poly tranny mount on all my cars and have for many years. But I also run a turn buckle or torque strap on the driver's side.

Best of both worlds; less vibration and chance of breakage along with a good margin of safety.

By solid, we are talking steel or aluminum I guess? I see some of you speak of poly ones, but that isn't what you mean by solid, right?

Solid mounts are steel.

Ok, thanks. I had found on one car of mine that the poly trans mount transmitted more vibration than the poly engine mounts, and the vibration was from the engine, not the transmission. First I put the rubber engine mounts back, and not much difference. But when I put the rubber trans mount back in the vibration was cut in half.

From now on, only internally balanced 360's for me, but that's a different thread.

I run a solid steel mount on the drivers side and the stock rubber mount on the pass side. It works good for me as it does not cause alot of vibration and works good when I go racing. I drive it alot on the street and I am glad I went this way as it seems to work good for the street and racing. Ron

I ran stock rubber motor mounts on my 440, but I also chained down the driver's side.

solids for me, but it does raise the engine higher, my shaker pokes up a bit more..and that pure muscle car feel is all there...

Just a little food for thought.

If you use a solid mount on the driverside and a rubber or poly mount on the passenger it will provide a fairly solid mount. I did it for years.

BUT, (just a thought, open to alternatives) now when the motor vibrates/moves, it is flexing the block at the mounting tabs for the solid mount. Under hard acceleration, couldn't it even pull the #3 cylinder walls slightly out of round? After all a properly done hone job includes using a boring plate to simulate the load of the cylinder head bolt stress.

Seems like most of my motor failures when I ran a solid mount, involved bearing issues at the 3-4 journals.

So I would recommend the poly mounts with the use of a travel limiter (chain, cable, turnbuckle, ect..) connected from the frame to a head or water pump bolt.

Schumaker(sp) makes a mount that has poly with steel inside sort of an L from the top to inside of the poly. I have one and it works great no Vibration

here is where the spool later kinds are a wonderfull setup!!