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318 rod big end spec
#1643132
07/06/14 11:14 PM
07/06/14 11:14 PM
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 893 Tustin, CA
pishta
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 893
Tustin, CA
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I got a very tight rod cap on a new crank. journal specs spot on, new bearing measures just like the rest, but this ID of the bare rod is 2.240 perpendicular to the parting line. Should it measure closer to 2.250? Isnt that the size they resize it to on the Sunnen? This is measured torqued and it does measure 2.250 across the parting line. My crank is way hard to turn (like breaker bar) when this single rod is torqued onto an otherwise hand turnable torqued lubed crankshaft.
12 Grand Caravan 06 T&C 02 T&C 96 Breeze 65 Barracuda "S"
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Re: 318 rod big end spec
[Re: pishta]
#1643133
07/06/14 11:35 PM
07/06/14 11:35 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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toss it. I'm assuming your assy is balanced so first you or your machinist weigh the big and small ends so you can duplicate that easily with another rod
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: 318 rod big end spec
[Re: pishta]
#1643135
07/07/14 02:13 AM
07/07/14 02:13 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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The press pin is free in the piston but you have to have the piston on its side & it MAY get damaged as the bottom side of the piston is gonna take the force of the press to get the pin thru the rod where the press fit is. I'm in this position myself with 8 of em & I'm gonna cut the small end/pin there in the piston itself but it ain't gonna be easy or quick. On the balancing HF has a cheap gram scale for $9.95 on sale and it is just as accurate as my buddys high dollar one . The rod needs to be supported horizontle so that the 2 big/small (journal/pin) holes in teh center of the hole are horizontle and since the piston is part of the reciprocating weight & is added to the rod small end you can level it & weigh the small end/piston/rings and the big end with bearings then if you destroy the rod to save the piston you just add the piston/rings weight to the small end weight on the new rod till it matches what you had before & even up the big end/bearing halves also (pads are on either end). I know a machinist that says he can press em out without damaging the piston but he said it is riskey. To ans your Q 10 tho is too far gone & sumpin ain't kosher as I've never seen one that far off. it needs to be concentric even tho bearings are slightly out of round by design. need the supports in the pic
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: 318 rod big end spec
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1643136
07/07/14 02:31 AM
07/07/14 02:31 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,668 Mi,U.S.A.
mike s
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,668
Mi,U.S.A.
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Piston can be pressed out without any damage if the right fixture is used.That would be one that holds the rod and not the piston.What did you use to measure that rod? Did you check the others?
Leave the gun.......take the Cannoli's....Mike
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